My "$50 Paintjob" has begun... [LG. PICS]

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re: My "$50 Paintjob" has begun... [LG. PICS]

Post by FORDification »

Well, I have more pics for you all. :D

I hit the shop early and got started wet-sanding the fender with 600-grit. Man, I'm amazed at how quickly that sandpaper wears out! I was using 3"x6" (?) sheets and ended up using four sheets of this just for wet-sanding this down one time. I'm obviously going to have to stock up on some 600-grit sandpaper.

Anyway, here's a shot of the fender after it got wet-sanded down:

Image

Yeah, I know... :eek: Yikes! As you can see, some of the paint got sanded down to bare metal. That was mainly due to this being the very beginning of the needed learning curve....it was the first time I'd ever wet-sanded anything, plus I had the first two coats a little thin in spots, plus I was trying to figure out the best method for wet-sanding. I started off wrapping the sandpaper around one of those foam sanding blocks, but the grit from the foam block kept coming off and getting into where I was sanding, so I just tossed it and finished up by hand. Therefore, my sanding technique left a little to be desired, since it wasn't very even. As I was sanding it though, I kept trying different things, and just about the time I was finishing up I found that I was getting the best results by wrapping the sandpaper around a rolled-up Scotchbrite pad....which made it stiff but just flexible enough to work well.

Anyway, I went ahead and dried the fender off and then put it out in the sun for about 20 minutes to fully dry, and then laid down the third coat. I ended up making the same basic mistakes that I made with the first two coats. First, I didn't have the paint thinned out enough. I DID add more mineral spirits and it WAS thinner...but still not enough. :pout: I was getting some good bubbles but was able to pop them by gently blowing on them. However, the paint was still just thick enough that it really didn't have time to smooth out before it set up. Second, because the paint was still mixed fairly thick, it was piling up on the roller which translates to a thicker layer being applied again. I was just trying different things, and they didn't work out as well as I'd hoped. It was a little better than the first two coats, but still not good enough. Well, I let it set for about 6 hours, and then got the fourth coat on. This time I really thinned it out, and because it was so much thinner, it not only didn't pile up on the rollers as much meaning I could lay down thinner coats, but once it was applied it smoothed out pretty quickly....and I have to say I was very pleased with how this coat layed down. I finally was getting the hang of how thin to mix it and how thin to apply it. :D Here's a shot after the fourth coat:

Image

Like I said, I'm finally getting the hang of how to do this....I'm just wondering if I should re-strip the fender and do it correctly from the start, or just keep going. I think I'll continue and see how it turns out, and make a decision then. However, although I'm not fully committed to going this route, I have to admit that I'm getting more confident that it'll turn out OK now. We'll see how it looks after I wet-sand these two layers and get a couple more applied.

And it did appear as if the paint was getting a little darker as more coats are applied, so I think I'll just keep going with it and see how it turns out. :D
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Post by spartman »

To qoute the family guy "Friggin Sweet!"

Did you read the second thread they started about this on the charger forum?

Some one claims that there is a boat paint that works as well or even better than the rustoleum, works better, and has a lot higher gloss than the rustoleum paint.
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Post by shanmeg1 »

I used that Brightside paint and it does flow nice on metal as well as glass. John
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re: My "$50 Paintjob" has begun... [LG. PICS]

Post by hardtailjohn »

We also had people use our waterborne polyurethane and have fantastic results with it...it's really glossy and tough as nails, back when I was an owner of AFS.
Keith, are you putting a drop of dishwashing soap in your warm water and letting the sandpaper soak for 10-15 minutes before you wetsand? The soap keeps the paper from building up so quick and letting it soak seems to keep them flexible enough to not disintegrate immediately.
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re: My "$50 Paintjob" has begun... [LG. PICS]

Post by 71 LONG BED »

Looks like It's going to turn out really good. All that sanding seems like a LOT of work though! I don't mean to sound lazy or anything. But I guess for the price, it's like a sore peter, you can't beat it. :lol:
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Re: re: My "$50 Paintjob" has begun... [LG. PICS]

Post by FORDification »

hardtailjohn wrote:...Keith, are you putting a drop of dishwashing soap in your warm water and letting the sandpaper soak for 10-15 minutes before you wetsand? The soap keeps the paper from building up so quick and letting it soak seems to keep them flexible enough to not disintegrate immediately.
JH
No, I was going to and it slipped my mind. It didn't seem like I was really having any problems with the sandpaper clogging up or falling apart though, just it's wearing out too quickly. But I'll try the Dawn next time and see if that makes any difference.

As for the extra work, yes, it does involve some extra wet-sanding....but it's not hard work, and this fender maybe took me 20 minutes to do. Since I'm not looking for a perfect show-quality paint job, just a really nice and inexpensive one, I'm willing to do a little extra sanding. :D
____| \__
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re: My "$50 Paintjob" has begun... [LG. PICS]

Post by Blue Cloud »

Looks good, now I want to do my faded 71. (when cools off maybe :lol: )
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re: My "$50 Paintjob" has begun... [LG. PICS]

Post by The Good Humor Man »

You could also try spraying it out of a Wagner power sprayer. I did my Sea/rail containers that way. I painted those Oliver Tractor green from Farm and Fleet, (one Hunter green rust-o-lium) and they turned out great, except when the sprayer got low, it tended to spit.
The same thinning has to be done, to make sure it is thin enough to spray out the Wagner.
I was going to do my general that way, but it was too cold outside when I did it, and the roller thing worked out just fine because it was white. The darker the color the less forgiving the paint will be.
I think doing it with the sprayer, it would get rid of much of the textured look you are getting.
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Post by Galaxie64 »

Definitely looks darker to me with that last pic. I am hoping to get back on track with mine this week but body work has slowed me down as well as this nasty hot weather.
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Post by 69F110 »

I'm going to have to try this out. I think I'll do it on my beater I have over here for starters. If I perfectt he process here, it'll save some serious buckks when i get back and get me another truck. Like everyone is saying...it seems to all be in the method and process. So, I f i get it down pat, I'll be a step ahead later down the road.

Pretty neat stuff, keep the pics coming Keith!
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re: My "$50 Paintjob" has begun... [LG. PICS]

Post by FORDification »

Well, I got to spend the day in the shop today. You'll recall that I got on the first two coats and then wet-sanded, and then got two more coats applied. Today I wet-sanded again and got two more coats applied. Oh, and this time when wet-sanding I did mix in a teaspoon of Joy dishwashing soap into my gallon bucket of water, and it made all the difference in the world! Whereas last time wetsanding I went through 4 sheets on this fender, this time I only used one sheet. :D (And of course, I just stocked up on 600-grit paper, so now I'm probably going to have way more than I need....but I guess it's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it, right?) ;)

Anyway, I'm beginning to be convinced that this will work. As mentioned above, it will be a little more time-consuming, but considering the cost savings I'm willing to give it a try. However.....after the application of the 5th coat this morning, waiting for it to dry so I could apply coat number 6, I decided that this wasn't the color I was after. Although it's really hard to tell in the pictures, this isn't a deep navy blue (midnite blue)...it's more of a purplish-blue. It's definitely got some heavy purple hue to it, and after much consideration this afternoon I've decided that I don't like it. It's different, that's for sure, but I don't think I'd be happy with it.

I took a bunch of pictures from different angles and lighting changes, trying to get the purple to show up in the pictures, but it's not working. I even took it outside in the bright sunlight, hoping that would make it show up, but it didn't. Here's the outside pic this afternoon, between coats 5 and 6. (Yes, I did apply coat number 6 just before coming home tonight, though I'm really not sure why.)

Image

So anyway....now I either have to figure out what to mix into my existing gallon of paint to really darken it up, or just start over and try to get another gallon mixed up for me in the right shade.

So you professional bodymen need to clue me in. Nick mentioned above that I'd need to mix in some maroons or violets to darken it up....but it just seems to me that it's TOO violet now, and I can't see how mixing in more of it will make it more blue. So what should I do?? :?
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
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Post by shanmeg1 »

I kind of like that color but I'm sure you can find the right mix to make it work. Use the photoshop to see which colors together make the color you need. I know you have some experience with it in Sampling menu. If you aren't using CS I can send you some color mixes that might help. John
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Post by 460 crew »

Keith someone on the site may like that color for their truck and you could sell it to them and start a new batch?
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Post by shanmeg1 »

Sorry I'm already into the black color and too far into change. John
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re: My "$50 Paintjob" has begun... [LG. PICS]

Post by 71 LONG BED »

It does look a little purple in the pictures and you say it looks even more purple in person. Hopefully you can darken it up so you get the color you want.
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