Air Compressor Plumbing

[jor]

I'd appreciate the photos Alvin. Shortbed, that looks like a real nifty system. Have you gotten a quote? I'm thinking expensive. Thanks.
jor

[qman]

There's a link to the right that gives you a sample price. It costs twice as much as steel and will also cost twice as much as copper but the claim is that you'll save 8 hours installing it. I'd still prefer copper. That system only has a 30 day money back guarantee. So when it does start to leak you'll spend 40 hours trying to find and fix it.

[alvinator]

here are some pics

[alvinator]

more

[alvinator]

last one

[jor]

Thanks for going to the trouble to take the photos. I am learning.
jor

[The Good Humor Man]

You must have a large shop to worry about piping. I have a 50 X 60 area, but the compressor in the middle of the back wall, mounted a hose real with 50 foot of hose. I also have a extra 50 foot to add on to the areas it won't reach. The hose real is so handy, I wish I would have bought one years ago.
We also turn the air compressor off after every use. A hose break, will cause the compressor to run non stop, and it can get hot enough to start a fire.

[FORDification]

Adding piping along the wall isn't so much trying to get air to work areas, but to give the air a place to sit and cool off, allowing the moisture in the air to condense where it can be drained off, assuring you the air going to your tool is cool and dry. You do NOT want any moisture getting into your paint gun, for example, and then onto the freshly-laid paint....or into a sandblaster (can you say "mud"?).

Just hooking a hose up straight to the compressor is fine if you're just filling tires or occasionally using an air ratchet, but it's a different story for more air-intensive tasks requiring a volume of air. A hose to the compressor is just pumping hot moist air into your air tool, which obviously isn't what you want.

[shortbedCUSTOM]

I'd appreciate the photos Alvin. Shortbed, that looks like a real nifty system. Have you gotten a quote? I'm thinking expensive. Thanks.
jor

they come in kit form. they offer a one car garage kit and a two car garage kit. if I remember correctly they quoted me around $500 for a two car garage. the cool thing about it is the simplicity of assembly.

[The Good Humor Man]

Adding piping along the wall isn't so much trying to get air to work areas, but to give the air a place to sit and cool off, allowing the moisture in the air to condense where it can be drained off, assuring you the air going to your tool is cool and dry. You do NOT want any moisture getting into your paint gun, for example, and then onto the freshly-laid paint....or into a sandblaster (can you say "mud"?).

Just hooking a hose up straight to the compressor is fine if you're just filling tires or occasionally using an air ratchet, but it's a different story for more air-intensive tasks requiring a volume of air. A hose to the compressor is just pumping hot moist air into your air tool, which obviously isn't what you want.

Darn, learned something new today. I guess you can teach a old dog new tricks.

[ladz]

When running your mains always face the tee's up with two ell's to turn down for your air hoses. And valves at the tee's for emergence , pitch your main away from the compressor and install a float trap at the end to remove condensate from the system ! At the compressor discharge connection install a water and oil separator and you will run trouble free. I would run iron pipe instead of copper due to condensation factors and also it is more ridge less chance of getting hurt !

[CJ,s 67 F100]

Keith is right about the air not having moisture in it when spraying. I have a 50' hose connected to my comp. and when I spray I hook my other 50' up to it just for the moisture problem. I painted a 16' trailer in my drive way several years ago when it was cool out side and I had to borrow another 50' for a total of 150' of hose to stop the condensation. 100' works ok when it is hot outside. This is with a water seperater and drier at the tank.