More Air Compressor Questions

[jor]

OK, I'm collecting all the info I can on how to properly pipe my garage air compressor setup. (there really isn't a lot of info available). I've got the right size compressor and I'm going to use black iron or copper, probably copper. Now I'm researching the accessories, like regulators, water separators, coalescing filters and so on. My system is going in a regular size 2-car garage so I won't need too many drops but I'd like to do it as properly as I can. Anyhow, what is everybody using for this equipment and what kind of money can I expect to pay for it? Thanks.
jor

[geezergeek]

This site has a good writeup of a well designed air delivery system for a shop. I deviate somewhat in that I attempt to have all air supply lines as clean from oil and water as possible. I use pre-coolers that cool down the air after being compressed and before going to the tank. I have found that aftermarket oil coolers for vehicles work very well. They are usually just about perfect size to use two square "boxer" fans like a pc has only I use fans that run off of 110vac since that is usually available on the compressor. Also I never use the air tool lubricators that mist oil through the hose. I always apply oil to the air tool directly.

I like the suggested rouing of the piping which allows for collection of condensate prior to the use of the air at the end of the pipe to the air device being utilized. Depending upon what the relative humidity is normally where you live will determine how agressively you need to manage moisture collection. I have a trap at the output of my receiver tank as well as a auto drain valve on the tank bottom that opens briefly every time the compressor stops and the unloader valve activates to take presure off the compressor pump. Painting I use another trapbefore it attaches to the spray system in addition to a "throwaway" mini inline filter trap that is made of clear plastic so you can gauge how effective your attempts to capture condensate have been to that point. On my sand blaster it has an additional trap in place of the inline disposable one on the paint system. for air tools I normally just use the traps at the air compressor, unless I see condensation cominfg from the exhausrt of the tool, in which case I add another filter.

Notice how a mention of a regulator is missing? My compressors are all single stage and usually will go "off" at somewhere between 105-115 psi, and turn "on" at 90 psi. All the air tools I have are spec'd at 90 psi so that keeps them running at the top end of their rated speed which is where they usually work the best (IMO). I may also put automatic drains at the bottom of the "collector leg" that extends down past the point on the wall where the air plumbing goes horizontally to the side over to the air tool. Now I just use manual valves (ringed safety valves) that I open every so often. If you have a two stage compresor, meaning that your pump shuts off at closer to 170psi then you probably need a regulator, if not it is better to leave it off, or put mini regulators on the stem of the air tool equipment as needed. I could see maybe needing one for a paint sprayer that was real sensitive to pressure changes, luckily mine is not.

Also, this site has some good info on blasters and blast cabinets including a good size one built from plans (one of my next projects). Graingers catalog both online and on paper has some info on compressor selection and shop layout recommendations. Hope this is of use, regards, Joe.

[geezergeek]

WHOOPS!!! Here is the site: www.tptools.com The article on configuring the compressor lines is in the technical documents area. regards, Joe.

[jor]

Thanks for your thorough response, Joe. I checked out that site (tptools.com) and see that it is an excellent resource. Do you have any recommendation for specific models? Let me comment on several things you brought up:
PRE-RECEIVER COOLING: My compressor does some cooling with the air passing through coiled tubing with fan air passing over it so I think I'm good on that;
HUMIDITY: I'm in Arizona so I get lucky on that too;
REGULATOR: Hmmm... My unit is a two cylinder single phase. It stops at 145# and starts at 110# so I think I will need a regulator. Of course, I could adjust its start/stop psi differently;
GRAINGERS: I had forgotten about them. Thanks.
SITE RECOMMENDATION: I found the hotrodder's site to be very valuable. They are really the only site other than fordification that has much in the way of compressor/air piping discussion. Matter of fact, they link to Keith's oldmobility site too. They are at: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/garage-tools/

Anyhow, I'm still looking for specific recommendations on the ancillary equipment. Thanks.
jor

[Jake11]

Try this one too. All good guys

http://spi.forumup.org/index.php?mforum=spi

[jor]

Thanks for the link, Keith. I'm making good progress. I ended up with 1/2" black iron and I'm getting two regulator/separator setups from TP Tools. I've got almost all the pipe done and I'll document the job for the site when it's up and running.
jor

[SportCustom]

Quick note on copper, make sure if you go this route to use the thicker grade of copper tubing, and solder with silver or braze at the joints. Pluming solder is not the best method for high pressure air lines.

[mrung0wa]

I agree with everybody !

You should definitely get an Air Compressor.

Their a boon to any workshop...


Lawrence