OT: who knows driveline tech stuff?

[heep70]

I have recently installed a rear CV drive line in my Toyota. I have read a few tech articles and they all seem to bounce around the issue of setting up the pinion to driveshaft angles. I know how to set up non-CV driveline angle, but the CV stuff I am new to. Knowing that there is no real concrete answer because every rig different. keep in mind my Toyota is highly modified, so I am not working with stock equiptment anymore.

So my question is: Do I set the rear pinion inline (0*) with the driveline (ujoint end) while the truck is static (stationary). Or do I need to figure out what the degree of axle wrap is while in motion, then set the angle of the pinion short at static so that while in motion it will then change to 0*? Get it

What I have now is a 43" rear CV driveshaft.
T-case drops 2.5*.
Driveline tilts up at 16.5*.
Rear pinion points up 15*.
That leaves me with 1.5* difference from being dead nuts on at static.

I need to get the rear u-joint at 0*. Just not sure if it needs to be done in motion or static.

So, what do you know?

[hardtailjohn]

I don't know if CV joints are any different, but I was always told to NEVER let a u-joint run at 0 if possible Maybe do a search on Dana's site or Rockwell?
Good luck, and I'll be really interested in hearing what ya find out!!
JH

[68F250]

CV's are a little different, the pinion U-joint should be at 0*.

Ok now here's my dumb question, does your Toyota have leaf or coil springs? I've read where some folks like a degree or so with leafs to cover for any axle wrap going on.

[67highboy]

CV's are a little different, the pinion U-joint should be at 0*.

Ok now here's my dumb question, does your Toyota have leaf or coil springs? I've read where some folks like a degree or so with leafs to cover for any axle wrap going on.

That is correct I usually shoot for a degree to comp axle wrap. we actually set them 2 to 2.5 on the drag cars to comp.

[Jake11]

Sounds to me allready know what your doing. The angles ought to
be pretty close to ok. Shure theres no binding going on? Or runout
in the shaft or yokes? Try putting the shaft 180 on the pinion end?

I would run it on stands at ride height with a helper in the cab, up to
the speed it vibrates and see where its shaking. Good luck KP

[heep70]

I have tried running it on the stands. The only problem there is that is not really what I call "in working condition". The rearend really flexes a great deal more that way. Not trying to be critical, but your idea is a good one to check for binding or lose things.

I have seemed to fix the vibe issue for the most part. I aligned the rear pinion dead nuts to the driveline. It has gotten rid of dang near all the vibes. I might try to drop the pinion .5* to see what that does. I rearly never thought about what goes on a driveline tell now. It is one of those things that if it isn't right it will let ya now.

Thanks for everyones input!

[xxxtina63]

Everything that I've ever read says this: When using a CV driveshaft (or double u-joints at transfer case) the driveshaft should be aimed straight at the pinion, and the axle rotated to same position, creating a straight line. So, as far as I know, your idea of 0* at static would be correct. If vibration is still present, then you may need to adjust pinion angle or drop the transfer case a little. Remember, .5*-1* can make the difference between shaking teeth or falling asleep. Hope this helps you out; it came from numerous articles from Fourwheeler Magazine. Good luck!

[Jake11]

Yea, it will wake you right up.