layedout72 wrote:That, and plate the lower to mount the bag. just throw some tirangular gussets on top of the piece marz just drew up and your good to go. of course, you have to have it layed out, bag collapsed, and then mark everything. That way you get maximum lift outta the bag.
That plate I drew is pretty much all you need. The 4 holes on each corner need to be transferred to the chevy crossmember and drilled out so that you can bolt the plate in place, the bottom of the bag will not need any plates or mounts it will just sit in the stock spring pocket and your all done with the bag mounting. all thats left to do is your plumbing.
The picture below shows were the holes go on the crossmember so that you can bolt down the plate for the bags.
If you do have problems with you wheels rubbing on your inner fenders then the others pics show what you can do to solve that problem.
well damn Marz. Aint that the damndest thing ever. I've ALWAYS seen the lowers plated, and a bag mount like a mazda or like what you are running. If it wasn't cups or torsions. My mistake on that GT.
layedout72 wrote:well damn Marz. Aint that the damndest thing ever. I've ALWAYS seen the lowers plated, and a bag mount like a mazda or like what you are running. If it wasn't cups or torsions. My mistake on that GT.
I have seen kits from one company that contains cups for the lower part of the bag but why spend more money if it's really not needed.
My lower arms are smooth,flat and if I don't bolt the bag down it will slide of the lower arm.
On the newer chebies you do need to plate the lower arm or build a cup for it depending on the year.
Well Tony called today and told me about this. I still have Chris' pickup. I had a knee replacement in Nov, complications etc. We have gotten back on Chris' project.Every thing you have done and explained is absolutely perfect. Good job. If you use common sense,every thing falls in place as you proceed. I still dont have it on the tires yet. I am installing ladder bars and coil-overs on the rear. Will have to tub it and narrow the 9" to accept 15x12 rear wheels. I am also doing a roll pan in back. It looks like we cut our frames through the same hole. I just used a hole so my cuts would be the same on both sides.I then measured the Ford center line and then cut the X frame 1" longer and welded them together. I used a fish plate very simular to gt's. It takes 2 u-joints and about a foot of 3/4 CRR to hook up the steering. I weld a 1/4' pipe coupling to the PS tubes and have hyd hoses fabbed at the local cotton gin. They are better quality and solve the problem of crossing brands. If you need help - call me @ 325- hot-ford or 325-468-4211. I hope I can help.
Bob
Thanks, I just sat the bed and cab on wednesday. No pics yet but it looks good. I found out the P.O. of the frame put the wrong springs in it. With just the weight of the motor the suspension sagged. When we sat the body on, the front end bottomed out on the bump stops. So tomorrow morning I'm off to the U pull it to get new coils. While I was there today I snagged a brand new inner fender repair panel and I'm also getting a rust free core support for $50. .
I also found out I have to have a rear sump oil pan, my dual sump mustang pan hits the cross member. Luckily I found one for free, just have to wait for a bud to pull it off a spare motor. I wish I had the pictures taken already, I am EXTREMELY excited because the solid mounts I used in my mustang are within 1/4 to 1/2 an inch of lining up perfectly. Its just a matter of heating and tweaking just a bit to get the needed angle.
All in all its coming together nicely. Thanks for the support.
325hotford wrote:Every thing you have done and explained is absolutely perfect. Good job.
Thank you
It looks like we cut our frames through the same hole. I just used a hole so my cuts would be the same on both sides.
I though you cut in front of the cab? Mine is under the cab. (same results just less work for you) I have to reposition front cab mounts on frame.
I then measured the Ford center line and then cut the X frame 1" longer and welded them together.
Same here.
I used a fish plate very simular to gt's. It takes 2 u-joints and about a foot of 3/4 CRR to hook up the steering. I weld a 1/4' pipe coupling to the PS tubes and have hyd hoses fabbed at the local cotton gin. They are better quality and solve the problem of crossing brands. If you need help - call me @ 325- hot-ford or 325-468-4211. I hope I can help.
Bob
Thanks for that info. I was looking at the steering today and wondering about that. Did you use the ford steering box or brand x/ And what did you use for headers, it looks like its gonna be tight.
Chris has a FE and it is offset about 1 1/2" to the pass side. The pass header had to be completely rebuilt. The drvr side fit . On a sb the pass side will work if you make a tri-y out of it. Be sure to get the pickup tube and main bolt with the oil pan. Use the chev steering gear.
I have more pics, but dont know how to post them. My gallery is full. I will take pics of the mods to the hyd lines tommorrow
As promissed here are some pictures. The blue coil is what was in the frame and the rusted one is what will be. Its no wonder the dang thing sagged from the weight. The other picture pay close attention to the motor mounts. Those are solid mounts for a 83 mustang. Nearly a direct bolt in for the brand X frame. Also notice the need for a remote oil filter location. Once I get the rear sump pan, I will slide everything back where it needs to be.
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Well got the new coils in today. Had to do it about 4 times per side before I got the spring compressors lined up to come back out, and nearly broke my hand but its done. Looks like I may not need to drop the rear end after all. I'll know more once I get the same size tires on all 4 corners and hang the front sheet metal. Then I can compare wheel well spacing and make a decision.
After priming the welds and grind areas, I have decided against powder coating the frame. Every where that I filled a 1/4 inch hole I made a silver dollar sized low spot by grinding too much back off.
I am now going to paint or POR the frame, that way I can skim coat it with duraglass or bondo for a really smooth look. Also if I c-notch and bag it later I wont have to have anything re-powder coated. Just paint to match.
Sorry I'm rambling....just excited to be makin progress.
your frame is going to look really clean can't wait.
Just wondering... what did you do with the 67's stock front clip? The reason I ask is because I am looking for a complete front clip so that I can start building my custom I beam dropped suspension kit that I had mentioned a while back. Do you still have it and how much?
Not much progress lately to speak of. I hung the front sheet metal just to see how much of the inners I have to hack off them pulled it back off while I had help. Shouldnt be too bad.
Right now I am waiting on the new oil pan and pick up tube I ordered. As soon as it comes in I will get the motor slid back into place and notch the front cross member if needed. More pics to come if I ever get anywhere with this. Money is real tight right now, so I will be only doing what I can without spending to much more.
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