Gooseneck question

Clutch, transmission, rear axle

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RedneckTexan
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Gooseneck question

Post by RedneckTexan »

I have a 68 F-350 dually with a DANA 70 rear, 360 with a 4 speed np435 tranny, and I was wondering if it would be able to pull a gooseneck with a g.v.w. of 20,000 lbs, or would it be wiser to get a 86 F-350 with a 6.9L Turbo Diesel, 4 speed Aod tranny, D70-D80 rear and only 235k miles :?

(sorry if this is in the wrong section)
John

68 F-100~68 F-350~69 F-250~69 F-100
76 F-150~78 bronco~78 bronco

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averagef250
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Post by averagef250 »

An 86 F-350 dually will have a sterling or a D70, not a dana 80. Ford dana 80's are in F-450 and bigger trucks with 10 lugs.

The '86 will probably pull more than the '68, but not too much difference really. If you have the '68 and it has disc brakes in the front I think I'd just use it.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
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re: Gooseneck question

Post by RedneckTexan »

It has drums on the front, but I'm just concerned with blowing out the rear.
John

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Post by fordman »

20,000 pounds of the trailer and what horses? or a trailer house? thats what i would look at is what is the loads you will be pulling. some loads ride better than others.
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re: Gooseneck question

Post by RedneckTexan »

Hay, tractors, implements, and other farm equipment.
John

68 F-100~68 F-350~69 F-250~69 F-100
76 F-150~78 bronco~78 bronco

http://oldfordcrewcabs.com/
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Post by averagef250 »

I would figure an '86 F-350 diesel would have a C-6 too. I didn't think the AOD was ever behind a diesel.

Take a manual over an auto.

Driving skill and common sense can tow just about anything with anything. It may not be legal or safe to most, but I know I could probably tow 20K with a 2.3 Ford Ranger if I absolutely had to. At the same time, there are many that don't have a clue and aren't safe with 20K behind a Kenworth.

My advice is see how the 68 does since you already have it. The rear end will hold up fine. If you feel you need more brake, more power, an auto or better mileage than consider the '86 diesel.

I don't think you're really going to know until you try the 68 on for size.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
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re: Gooseneck question

Post by RedneckTexan »

O.K. I wasn't sure if a 39 year-old rear end would hold up to that much hard work. And also, the trailer g.v.w. is 20,000, but I'll probably only be pulling 12,000 to 15,000 with it though. Your right Dustin, it does have a C-6.

NOTE (I just rechecked the add and it does have a C-6, I was looking at a ad for another truck with a gas engine and it had the aod :oops: )
John

68 F-100~68 F-350~69 F-250~69 F-100
76 F-150~78 bronco~78 bronco

http://oldfordcrewcabs.com/
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Post by flyboy2610 »

averagef250 wrote:At the same time, there are many that don't have a clue and aren't safe with 20K behind a Kenworth.
I think I've met most of them.
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re: Gooseneck question

Post by ToughOldFord »

I'd go for the diesel myself. I like my bump, but I wouldn't want to use it for more than the occasional pull. It'd not only be safer, but more comfortable and better mileage. :2cents:
And you can't go wrong with that 6.9
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Re: re: Gooseneck question

Post by RedneckTexan »

ToughOldFord wrote:I'd go for the diesel myself. I like my bump, but I wouldn't want to use it for more than the occasional pull. It'd not only be safer, but more comfortable and better mileage. :2cents:
And you can't go wrong with that 6.9
:yt: In my opinion, the 6.9L is better, stronger engine than the 7.3L. I'd like to get the diesel, but I'm short on :$$: right know. So I'll probably use the bump to pull the gooseneck for awhile, make some :$$: and then buy the Diesel.
John

68 F-100~68 F-350~69 F-250~69 F-100
76 F-150~78 bronco~78 bronco

http://oldfordcrewcabs.com/
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re: Gooseneck question

Post by ToughOldFord »

True that the 6.9 is better, but the 7.3 is, slightly, stronger. All the 7.3 is, is a bored out 6.9. Problem is when they did that they made the cylinder walls rather thing so the 7.3 is prone to cavitation if you don't keep on top of your SCAs, which is serious. And all they gained was 10hp over the 6.9. :doh:

You can get a good electric trailer brake control off of ebay for next to nothing, I have a good one here I'll be putting on the '69 soon. After shipping it was around $8. You probably should at least get one if you don't already have one. It'll take some stress of your bump's brakes and help keep 'em cool.
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