Flywheel Identification

[Old School Ray]

Greetings!
I've got a 240 inline 6 mated to a T85-N tranny with an R11 overdrive. I'm hoping to find a new flywheel as the old one shows signs of blueing and has crazing cracks on its face. The casting numbers on the old flywheel are C6AE.
With first 'C" meaning the decade beginning 1960, '6' being the sixth year in that decade, 'A' being 'full size' or 'Galaxy' model and 'E' representing the engine and drivetrain parts engineering division.
The individual part number is where I am having trouble, the casting is difficult to make out. Looks like 8880, but when I try to search that number nothing comes up. I have read elsewhere that parts in the 6000 range are engine parts so I tried 6880 and 6380 without luck either.

Anyone have any ideas? Your shared wisdom is greatly appreciated

[craftsman]

I do believe that the 240/300 have the same 0 ballance flywheel. Any parts house will have one.
I looked it up on Parts America and they had one, the 300 and 240 had the same part number, i'm sure someone will chime in with more helpful advice.

[fordman]

yea the part store will be your best bet for a new one. i dont think you would need the part number to get one. you can also have your old on resurfaced and the checks will come out most of the time. check with your machine shop to see if they can turn it down enough to get the checks and blueing out of it.

[averagef250]

If the cracks are light, just resurface it. Otherwise you can use any 240/300 six flywheel from 65 through 97. Just be sure you get the clutch for the year range of the flywheel you buy.

[Old School Ray]

Thanks for the quick response everyone, I'll give resurfacing it a shot! The clutch disk, pressure plate and TOB that I pulled out match a '69 F100 so I already bought the new clutch kit.
I still have to get the pilot bushing out of the crank. Tried filling it with grease and using the clutch alignment tool to press it out hydrolicaly without success. I borrowed a slide hammer harmonic puller setup to try next.
Again, I really appreciate the advice and encouragement

[averagef250]

For pilot bearings I use a slide hammer with a bolt screwed in the end. I use a bolt with a head just large enough to fit in the pilot hole. Put it all the way in, then wedge a small punch or another bolt in beside it.

I've used the grease method before with good results, but the only way I could get it to work was machining the punch to be a very tight fit through the ID of the bearing.

[Old School Ray]

Thanks for the advice Dustin! The puller I borrowed had a two claw inner hook innner seal adapter but neither would fit inside the pilot busing.
Using your suggestion I found a carriage bolt that just fit inside the race, then jammed it with a second bolt to trap the head. I lucked out with the carriage bolt being small enough to fit into the dent puller adapter. After about 20 good pulls on the 5 lb. slide hammer the pilot finally gave way.
-Grease would never have got this one out.
Got my flywheel (which was blue and heat checked like crazy) resurfaced at Ott's Friction Supply on N. Columbia here in Portland. They did a great job of reclaiming what I thought was a junk flywheel. They even turned my starter ring around so that the teeth were fresh where they met the starter cog- all for under $40. If you need flywheel or brake drum/disk work done, I highly recommed them!
New disk, pressure plate and TOB are working fine. Thanks again for the help. My next plan involved a grinder and a cold chisel (not what I was hoping for).