Welding question

wt4speed#2 · Post by **wt4speed#2** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:31 pm

I have procured some thin square tubing that i think will be a good start on my new radiator mounting system(long story maybe later). the only draw back it's galvanized. What are some of the pro's and cons for welding galvanized sheet metal? will i be okay if i keep good ventilation?

OldRedFord · Post by **OldRedFord** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:19 pm

I wouldn't do it.

Im in college to be a welder and I wont touch it.

But if you must..

Welding galvanized steel should always be done in well-ventilated locations to minimize fume inhalation. The AWS publication, AWS/ANSI Z49:1, Safety and Cutting in Welding, covers all aspects of welding safety and health. However, galvanized steel can be welded without removing the zinc coating if special procedures are followed.

For galvanized structural fabrications, the zinc coating should be removed at least one to four inches from either side of the intended weld zone and on both sides of the piece. Grinding back the zinc coating is the preferred and most common method; burning the zinc away or pushing back the molten zinc from the weld area also are effective.

But I still wouldn't do it. Still a chance of getting Metal Fume Fever.

Another link worth reading...

http://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/tutor/safety3/index.htm

ezernut9mm · Post by **ezernut9mm** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:07 pm

don't give up tony. once you do finally get that radiator in it's all downhill fron there...right? right?

mark carrick · Post by **mark carrick** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:22 pm

You'll be fine, grind the zinc to bare metal in the area to be welded (there will be far less oxdation and popping/pitting) turn on a fan and try to avoid breathing alot of smoke. A little shouldn't hurt. I've been a sheet metal mechanic for over fifteen years and have welded an awful lot of galvanized duct, and I'm not dead yet.

19674x4 · Post by **19674x4** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:50 pm

yea, just grind the galvanizing off and go from there. not only is it safer, but makes the weld penetrate better and create a better bond

71Ford100 · Post by **71Ford100** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 12:55 am

Also drink some milk before you go and tear into it. I welded on galvanized beams all summer long with no problem.

rjewkes · Post by **rjewkes** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 3:33 am

is this replacing the original core support completley or making a stand off for the rad? is this to make room for the a/c condensor?

my current 302 f100 has the rad bolted directly to the xcore support it is a 72 though so if yours is older maybe?

wt4speed#2 · Post by **wt4speed#2** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 5:37 am

ezernut9mm wrote:don't give up tony. once you do finally get that radiator in it's all downhill fron there...right? right?

Yea

67mann · Post by **67mann** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 5:47 am

LOT's of ventilation and you'll be fine,you can drink milk too--if ya want,but it doesn't sound like your makin a career out of welding galvinize
Just a little project.

wt4speed#2 · Post by **wt4speed#2** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 7:31 pm

rjewkes wrote:is this replacing the original core support completley or making a stand off for the rad? is this to make room for the a/c condensor?

my current 302 f100 has the rad bolted directly to the xcore support it is a 72 though so if yours is older maybe?

I used the radiator that I got along with the 302 roller as it was the lesser of the 2 evils . The radiator that was in the truck when I purchased it was clearly not the right application as the PO had to cut out the stantions or uprights if you will, one of the reasons I replaced the core support. it was secured to the core support with pallet banding materials. I fabricated makeshift brackets to install the '85 stang radiator with plans to redesign it at a later time (see photo's)

In the processes of tuning the new carb installed on the Offy dual plane (thanks willow) fitswell and I discovered the 'stang radiator was plugged or something . So thur the course of several months (ovedrtime cuts , chrstmas and the likes) I finally came up with funds to reoplace the rad. and decioded since I have the 'stang style nearly installed that's what I would buy. long and short the vendor i used screwed up and sent me a new"zella" simular to this

and I dont really want to bolt it directly like the copper and brass that's currently in there. I plan on building a troff<spelling> for it to sit in, in rubber mounts and fill the open portion at the top with clamp brackets and rubber. I know i've lost some here but will try to take picture as i go when i get my core support off and start fabricating.

tfnaaf · Post by **tfnaaf** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 7:49 pm

You can also use muriatic acid to dip the parts in, its fairly inexpensive from lowes/homedepot. I've welded it before and will never do it again with out removing coating. It's not worth the risk imo

wt4speed#2 · Post by **wt4speed#2** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:44 pm

I have some muriatic acid in the garage thanks for the tip.

fourtss · Post by **fourtss** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 5:47 am

tony, are you doin this cause you don't have the correct radiator?

wt4speed#2 · Post by **wt4speed#2** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 6:52 am

yes the PO had rigged a radiator from God knows what. And I had and whatI thought was a decent Mustang rad, with shroud and recovery bottle and fab it up to go in the support. when I discovered that it was blocked I was just gonna go like for like as the mounting was 80% done. Long and shoet I ended up with a High dollar alminunm radiator that can't just be bolted up direct.

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