C6 to NP upgrade

[ToughOldFord]

It has begun. I've been working on it for the past few days now, only it's been 103-106 lately so I've been waiting 'till about 8PM to work on it for an hour each day. And even then it's been hot as blazes.
Pulled the driveline, starter, tranny mounts and cross member bolts. Got most of the front cross member bolts out too, looks like those on the top rail are going to be fun.

Pulled the seat, carpet and transmission cover too. This truck was sealed up pretty good, the carpet, the insulation, and these sheets of what looks like thick tar paper. Was kind of a shame to break the seal on the hup cover, but that's progress I guess.

Heat's supposed to brake tomorrow so hopefully I'll be able to spend more time on it.

[ToughOldFord]

And I was surprised to find the original jack crank still properly strapped down behind the seat.

Original jack's long gone of course.

[BiggDogg]

Glad you were able to get it started . We're supposed to get a break in the weather by the end of the week... hopefully it lasts!

[RedneckTexan]

Great conversion! Can't wait to see some pics!

[ToughOldFord]

Got the pilot bushing and flywheel installed. I was bolting up the pressure plate and I broke a bolt so the pressure plate came back off so I could get the bolt out. Now I need to get to the hardware store and it started raining again do I called it a day. I'll just go ahead and replace all those bolts considering how easily that one broke.

Tightened up the exhaust while I was down there, the R/S was pretty loose, that'll quieten up my exhaust leak a bit for a while. I'm always burning up the doughnut gaskets on that side.

Looks like I'll be changing my speedometer cable, again. The C6 uses a screw on type while the NP uses the push in and clap style.

[AlleyCat]

Lookin good. Nice pics.

[ToughOldFord]

Got it in today! Heavy stuff's done, just need to tighten up the cross-members, install the new pedals and linkage, get a drive line, and reinstall the interior.

To answer my own previous question the holes are in the frame of an automatic truck for the Z bar mount. And the nuts are attached to the frame below the holes. Ford was pretty good about this stuff, the cross member for the transmission need to go forward a bit and the holes for that were already in the frame as well.

An FYI for anyone else doing this in the future, when you put the bell housing to the engine stab the bolt in the hole on the left side, (Drivers side), second one from the bottom before putting the bell housing on. There's not enough clearance with the housing installed to get the bolt in or out no matter how high or low you tilt the engine.

[ToughOldFord]

Got the new pedals in today. Installed and hooked up the Z bar and linkage. Anyone know were to get those bushing for the ends of the rod that connects the Z bar to the pedal linkage?
Was more of a pain in the rear than I expected. I've changed pedal assemblys in these trucks before, but this truck has more cr*p in the way then the others. A/C partly in the way, add on gauges and wiring, etc. Broke the light up knob for my cargo light. Was surprised how brittle it was.
Got all the cross members tightened down, starter installed. My rag joint was toast, again, so I picked up a new one. So now I need to install it, reinstall the steering column and the interior and get that drive shaft.

[ToughOldFord]

Had a bit of a scare too, went to bolt the Z bar mount on the engine side and only found a couple of small blue dimples where the bolt holes are supposed to be. I was lying under there staring in disbelief that Ford didn't put the holes in the block for that and after everything else went so smoothly. Looking at what a PITA getting a drill and a tap up there too. I got a small probe and stabbed one of the dimples and the probe went through! Some dumba$$, (said dumba$$ shall remain nameless ), had painted over the grease in the grease packed holes before he put the engine in the truck.
Some degreaser and compressed air and all was good.

[71PA_Highboy]

For the Bushings, check a classic mustang shop... it is the same busings as a 69 BB car... A good shop would have them.

HTH,

eric

[ToughOldFord]

Thanks Eric, I'll check into that if I can't find them in SC or LMC. For the time being I have the slack adjusted out of the linkage until I can get the bushings.

I had a real big dammit moment yesterday. Found out that my AC does interfere with the shifter. Figured I could shave off the corner of the AC housing for the extra clearance, but I looked inside it and the evaporator fits right up to the sides of the housing. And I can't just move the unit over a couple of inches as it's molded to the curvature of the dash. I've got too much work in this conversion to back out now so I'm just going to have to pull the AC box and keep my eye out for one in a manual truck that has the proper clearance. After all the work and time I have invested in fixing the AC over the past couple of years too.


Nearly done now, installed the new rag joint and reinstalled the steering column. Got my gauges and everything mounted back up. Replaced the speedometer cable. Just have to reinstall the interior and hopefully get a drive line this weekend.

[AlleyCat]

You might try bending the shifter to clear the case.Cherry it up with a cutting torch where needed and bend to fit.After it cools and you make sure it clears a quick pass with a rattle can will make it look factory.

[ToughOldFord]

I had thought briefly about bending it, but it looked too close to the shift tower. But after reading your post I decided to take a closer look so I went out and bolted everything back and it looks like I might be able to do it. As close as it is tot he tower though I'll have to do a type of S bend to bring it away and then back up. I might take it to a machine shop and see what they can do for me.
So thanks Clay for making me go back out and looking again. Maybe I can turn a big dammit into a little one.




All back together now, just need the shifter fix and the driveline.
Eventually pull the AT shifter too.

[AlleyCat]

I would heat it just above the ball where the surface rust starts and bend it toward the passenger's door.After that cooled I would bring it back by heating at the bend below the knob.It doesn't look like it will take much.

I've bent sticks before to clear PTO levers, salt spreader controls and other things.I've never had a problem.

[ToughOldFord]

Hmmm, hadn't thought about going sideways. Either way though it'll have to be some pretty sharp bends. It has to more than clear that corner, it has to go under the unit to get to first.
You don't think that putting that much heat that close to the shift tower will be a problem? I'm imagine that the aluminum would get quite a bit of heat transference and I don't know what kind of abuse aluminum can take. Or I could just take the shifter out of the truck to play it safe.

Thanks again, you've given me something to ponder and I'll take a look at it again tomorrow and maybe put the torch to work.