you need the bolt on tailshaft. its 6 inches shorter. had the same problem when i swapped the c6 in mine. you have a slipyoke tailshaft. my 69 had a c6 with a 390 so i just took it off that. find a junkyard. also the crossmember wont be an issue if you get that tailshaft it will bolt up just like stock.
EDIT: you need that shaft as well.
69' Ford F250 Ranger XLT Camper Special
460 conversion
BobbyFord wrote:...and you'll need to swap the linkages out of the trans case...
Why is that? The rod I have is the one that fits into the shift arm on that transmission.
I believe that the car and truck linkages on the trans are different. I could be wrong but I remember my dad was saying something like that once. Not sure if the car shift rod and trans linkage will hook up to the truck column.
my c-6 car trans had been rigged to work with the truck stock column auto shifter, but it really sucks. Doesn't go into park very well very easy to accidently leave or slide into reverse, shifter sometimes falls down into 2nd at highway speeds with no provocation, etc. Not very desireable, if you're going to do it, and want it right, you'll wish you'd located the truck linkage to fit on the car auto by the time you keep trying to make it work, just my honest thoughts.
Banjo wrote:my c-6 car trans had been rigged to work with the truck stock column auto shifter, but it really sucks. Doesn't go into park very well very easy to accidently leave or slide into reverse, shifter sometimes falls down into 2nd at highway speeds with no provocation, etc. Not very desireable, if you're going to do it, and want it right, you'll wish you'd located the truck linkage to fit on the car auto by the time you keep trying to make it work, just my honest thoughts.
What rod did you use? The bumpside one? I have a C6 shift rod from a dent. Lots of adjustability. I am confident that If the rod wont work, that I can modify it to work without much trouble.
Banjo wrote:my c-6 car trans had been rigged to work with the truck stock column auto shifter, but it really sucks. Doesn't go into park very well very easy to accidently leave or slide into reverse, shifter sometimes falls down into 2nd at highway speeds with no provocation, etc. Not very desireable, if you're going to do it, and want it right, you'll wish you'd located the truck linkage to fit on the car auto by the time you keep trying to make it work, just my honest thoughts.
What rod did you use? The bumpside one? I have a C6 shift rod from a dent. Lots of adjustability. I am confident that If the rod wont work, that I can modify it to work without much trouble.
It isn't the rod that is the problem, it is the linkage at the trans that is the issue. The arms are different shapes for lots of different stuff. There are literally dozens and dozens of different linkages. For example a a floorshift one is different dfrom a column shift Torino which is different from a column shift Galaxie which is different from a column shift Tbird etc... If you need a trans for a 2 X 4 Ford truck you need an arm from a 2 X 4 truck and nothing else will do properly. You can change the arm but it is a bit of work and requires removing the valve body. Hawkrod
Actually, the arm from any 68-79 C6 2WD pickup will work and engine size does not matter, it could be a C6 from a 390, 429 or even a 351M. There are several different ones but they will all work because the changes did not relate to lever ratio. Hawkrod
All shift arms mount the same. You have to remove the pan and valve body and then there is a nut holding it on. The arms are all interchangeable but some require a longer or shorter kickdown shaft so I always include the shaft with a shift arm when I sell them. For some reason, Ford made them in two different lengths and sure as heck when you buy a sfift arm it is different than the one you have! Also note that the kickdown lever and rod are truck only items as well. Hawkrod