AOD general info including how to mount behind an FE

[Clarko]

The Ford AOD trans is an excellent auto trans, especially because it has a .67:1 OD ratio.
This translates into having an entire 1/3 of an RPM drop going from 3rd into OD.
I depend on an AOD every day in my DD 88 Bronco and absolutely trust it. My truck has 170k miles on it on the factory AOD (behind the second engine now) and she still shifts PERFECTLY everyday.
The AOD is an all-aluminum trans, about the same length as a C6. Like a C6, the bellhousing is cast as part of the trans case. These transmissions only come in a small-block bolt pattern and use a unique flexplate that will only work with a AOD and nothing else.
The AOD was never put by Ford behind anything bigger than a 302 (with the lone exception being the 351W powered Crown Vic in the 80s).
These transmissions can be built to withstand over 1000hp. One of my best friends has an built AOD in his supercharged 700hp 66 Mustang with no problems (and he's no light-foot).

The Throttle Valve Cable (kickdown/modulator in one basically) that I'm going to use is from Lokar (pn KD-2AODHT) http://www.lokar.com/product-descriptio ... d-kits.htm. It works with most Holley/Edelbrock carbs for sure. I'm not sure about Autolites or anything else.

Now let me say this about the TV cable. Not only does it control shift points but also changes the line pressure in the valve body. If the TV cable is misadjusted, it could cause damage to the trans. The factory adjustment process involves two pressure gauges installed on the side of the trans to get it perfect. TCI has come up with a valve body that keeps a constant pressure in the valve body and makes the TV adjustment do nothing but change the shift points. I'm going with this in my AOD. http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Ford/ford_aod.asp

Now for all of us FE guys, there is an adapter plate kit that will make it work:
From a company called Bendtsen’s Transmission Center.
http://www.transmissionadapters.com/ford_fe.htm
It'll make ANY small block trans fit behind an FE!
I'm completely impressed with the quality of this kit so far.
I received mine from them on Friday.
These are their pics, not mine:




Any questions, don't hesitate to ask!

[sideoilerfe]

Cool. I LOVE those 427 cast iron headers...but hate the Fram filter!!!!

[seattle67]

Good post, thanks for the info!

[Clarko]

Cool. I LOVE those 427 cast iron headers...but hate the Fram filter!!!!

Me too.

[FORDification]

Excellent info, Brian! This thread will definitely become an addition to the newly-formed Transmission FAQ forum in the very near future.

Just for us dummies who haven't really looked into overdrives at all....this is the version that doesn't use any kind of computer, right?

Definitely take lots of notes when you go to install yours. It'll definitely help out everyone else looking to do this kinda mod in the future. I'd wonder about shift linkage, U-joints, etc.

[truckguy]

Definitely take lots of notes when you go to install yours. It'll definitely help out everyone else looking to do this kinda mod in the future.

Kyle

[truckguy]

I would like to put a OD in my 69. This would be cool.
Kyle

[Jake11]

Got a built AOD. F/S Got a Crown Vic valve body, rebuilt for it too.

[Clarko]

Excellent info, Brian! This thread will definitely become an addition to the newly-formed Transmission FAQ forum in the very near future.

Just for us dummies who haven't really looked into overdrives at all....this is the version that doesn't use any kind of computer, right?

Definitely take lots of notes when you go to install yours. It'll definitely help out everyone else looking to do this kinda mod in the future. I'd wonder about shift linkage, U-joints, etc.

This is the only Ford RWD V8 non-computerized overdrive trans.
Shift linkage is the same between a C4, C6, and AOD in the 80s trucks so I'm hoping it'll work.
The Slip yoke is the same between a C6 and an AOD. The u-joint will be the same. I'm 99% sure that I'll need to shorten the driveshaft though, especially because our trucks have that extra short C6 tailshaft.

[Jake11]

It has a 5/16" allen shaft between a spring loaded damper plate, like they put in a man. clutch disk and the rear
planet. This runs the overdrive. The early ones were "mechanical shifting" Throttle pressure, and govenor.
They went ECM control. If you hit it with 1000hp going into 3rd or 4rth, it will break real quick, (5/16" shaft)

After re-reading your post, I think you got some misinformation. AOD's are a nice small block trans. Do what you
like. It's only money. A pass or two, maybee. Just get a C6 if you have to drive an auto. I can build you one
that can actually hold a 1000HP. AOD, no dice. Jake

[Clarko]

It has a 5/16" allen shaft between a spring loaded damper plate, like they put in a man. clutch disk and the rear
planet. This runs the overdrive. The early ones were "mechanical shifting" Throttle pressure, and govenor.
They went ECM control. If you hit it with 1000hp going into 3rd or 4rth, it will break real quick, (5/16" shaft)

After re-reading your post, I think you got some misinformation. AOD's are a nice small block trans. Do what you
like. It's only money. A pass or two, maybee. Just get a C6 if you have to drive an auto. I can build you one
that can actually hold a 1000HP. AOD, no dice. Jake

Yeah but I like fuel economy, too. I depend on an AOD everyday with my Bronco and my Fox Mustang. I'm not going to have 1000hp and if I did, fuel economy wouldn't even be a concern. With a 4.56:1 rear gear in my Bronco (and 33" tires for that matter) I'm going 68 at 2000RPM. With a C6, I'd be spinning 3000RPM.
Lentech offers a complete built drag AOD that is rated to 1500HP and 1000+Lb-Ft and it comes with a limited lifetime warranty: http://www.lentechautomatics.com/striptrans.html
I don't care to ever use a non-overdrive transmission in anything ever again, EVER!
I've pulled 5000Lb trailers up the Grapevine (part of the I-5 where it goes from about 1200ft to almost 4200 ft in like 25 miles but has a up-hill grade going almost 1400 ft uphill in 5 miles) at 65 MPH many a time and my AOD was built by Ford Motor Company in 1987, over 170,000 miles ago. Used to live behind an anemic 302 and now lives behind a warmed over 351W. Damn trans has NEVER let me down.

We've made many passes in my best friend's 66 Mustang with a 750-hp Vortech-Supercharged EFI 302 and his AOD has never let him down.

I made my choice based on real world experience with this trans.

[j41385]

I am Also going to do this swap. Another thing I would like to add, is that it is Best to look for an aod made after 1988 because for 1988 they added the rear shaft oiling upgrade. But from some Reading the best aod's made came in Thunderbird 3.8l Super coups and 1992 and 93 F150's with the 5.0L. These had the most Clutch packs, the wide ratio gear set, the 2" overdrive band, and the A servo for the overdrive. You can do these upgrades to any aod, but this is a stock rebuld for the said aod's.

[averagef250]

Keep in mind a .67:1 OD ratio is a little rediculous for real world use. Great in a car or a light truck where fuel economy is the concern, but the jump from 1:1 to .67:1 is huge and not a wise choice for anyone planning on moving weight in overdrive. Especially with an engine like an FE that produces lots of low end and can easily tow in OD.

[Clarko]

Keep in mind a .67:1 OD ratio is a little rediculous for real world use. Great in a car or a light truck where fuel economy is the concern, but the jump from 1:1 to .67:1 is huge and not a wise choice for anyone planning on moving weight in overdrive. Especially with an engine like an FE that produces lots of low end and can easily tow in OD.

Is that why Ford used a .71:1 (E4OD and 4R100) overdrive behind 89-04 460s, Triton V10s, and Powerstroke Diesels in everything from Super Duties to Motorhomes? Ford uses a .70:1 in the 5R110, which debuted with the 6.0L Powerstroke in 2003 (gas engines couldn't get it until 2005) and is the current 5-speed automatic in Super Duties, E-Series Vans, and Motorhomes, not to mention the Ford LCF cab-over trucks. There is not much difference there, 29% reduction in RPM with the E4OD/4R100 (30% with the 5R110) vs. 33% reduction with the AOD. Also the shift from 2-3 in a C4/C6 is a similar change (1.46:1 to 1:1, a 32% reduction in RPM).
If you were that concerned anyways, you could always just take it out of OD and put it in Drive to use just the first 3 gears.

[averagef250]

Of coarse you can always use direct.

The main point I'm trying to make is things often sound great on paper, but don't really work as well in actual use. Overdrive ratio is one of those things where it's way too often that the "more is better" mentallity kicks in and that really is not true at all.

I have only had one AOD vehicle and it was a 91 mustang that was heavily modified and never really drove on the street. However, I have installed half a dozen dodge 47RH and 47RE automatics behind Cummins engines in repowers. The dodge autos have a .69 over. Honestly, I feel the reason why late model vehicle manufacturers use very steep overdrive ratios is because the ratio won't allow the engine to be in the peak torque range in a situation where you can really put the power through the drivetrain like towing a heavy load up a grade.