Drive shaft departs in mid-flight... film at 11

[LeoZelig]

I just got home from a bit of an adventure, and could use some direction from those wiser and more experienced than I.

I was driving along I-285 here in Atlanta at about 60mph when a tremendous vibration/grinding sound began, followed by a whoomp!, followed by more grinding and then silence... all in pretty short order. The folks behind me scattered and I coasted to the shoulder. A quick inspection revealed the drive shaft is gone.

Thank God I wasn't hurt, and thank God I didn't get anyone else hurt, either.

The u-joint at the differential came apart, and the shaft slid off onto the roadway.

While waiting for AAA, I walked a good ways along the interstate to see if I could spot it, but no luck. If it had landed on the left shoulder, there would've been no retrieving it, anyway. Those of you familiar with Atlanta traffic know what I mean. The left shoulder is a concrete wall with just a couple of feet of shoulder!

Tomorrow I'm going to drive the area with a friend so we can look carefully and see if it's on the right shoulder.

If I can find it and retrieve it, then I'll take it to a shop and have it checked out, rebalanced, whatever and see if I can learn to reinstall it myself.

If I can't find it, I'll need a new one. I would guess that the shaft lengths differ depending on transmission and differential.

My questions are these. First, is this something I should attempt? I have done brake work, replaced alternators, bolted together an exhaust system, and rebuilt a carburetor. How much harder is this?

Second, where would you go to find a replacement drive shaft and u-joints?

Third, are there any questions I'm not thinking to ask?

This is a 1969 F100, SWB, 2WD, manual transmission with overdrive. It has just over 250k on it.

Thanks for your help!

[stangconv]

Replacing a driveshaft and U-Joints are pretty easy... Although if your shaft took flight there proabally is a good chance its bent or no longer balanced... you will probally get a shimmy.

I would look in junkyard for a truck similar and steal its driveshaft, then bo buy some U-joints at your local parts store...done and done

[FORDification]

Yeah, I think you're more than qualified to replace a driveshaft. I agree, if you're able to find your old driveshaft, I'd take it to a machine shop to get checked out for straightness....unless there are any dents in it, at which point you'll just chuck it on the scrap iron pile and go find a replacement.

[stangconv]

If it were me, I would spend the time you planned on going down the highway in a scrapyard instead...

[fordman]

a junkyard or the driveline shop can get you a new one. the trick is to get one the same size or larger around i think. a new ujoint can be gotten from the parts store.

[averagef250]

Just having a new one made by a driveline shop is the easiest route to go and you get the best end result.

[Hawkrod]

Count me with these guys, I have never seen a driveshaft that completely blew a U joint that was any good even if it stayed in the car or truck. Just go find another or get one made. Post here in teh classifieds and I will bet you will have 4 by tomorrow. When I needed one I got three responses within hours and managed to get one from a local member the next day. Hawkrod

[LeoZelig]

Thanks for everyone's advice - I love this place

I will still drive the stretch today and see if I can find it, if for no other reason than to be able to present a driveline shop with the original measurments. Also, if I end up going junkyard searching, having the original to compare to will be invaluable.

In the meantime, that's a good idea about using the classifieds. I will post a request in there today.

What is a reasonable price for a driveshaft, anyway? And I'm sure the shipping would be crazy expensive, so I hope I could find a local source.

I'll let y'all know what I find.

[70shortwide]

too bad were on opposite coasts (almost) my neighbor has that exact shaft!

[LeoZelig]

Update - I found the shaft!

It was in remarkably good condition. Splines are perfect and there are no dents in the tube... at least no new ones. There were a couple of small dents, but given the rust pattern, they'd been there for some time. It was remarkably undamaged, just some scrapes on the yoke.

So I bought a replacement u-joint, thought I'd replace it and see how it ran. I got the old joint out, but had some real trouble getting the new one in. I tried a c-clamp and pounding it, but I couldn't get it completely pressed in. I was 1/8" - 1/16" from success, but it would not budge.

I took it to a local driveshaft shop today... after going back and taking the receiver yoke off and bringing it in, too - they said they'd need the whole assembly to check balance.

So I'll have them balance it, replace both joints, and straighten it if necessary (and if possible). I'll let you know how that goes.

70shortwide, that is too bad, but if I strike out on this coast, maybe I could work out something with your neighbor anyway.

Thanks everyone!

[Dragon]

Most good u-joint/Driveline shops can look up the lengths back to the 40s.

[71 LONG BED]

All it takes is a small dent to throw a drive shaft out of balance. I'm glad the shop is balancing the whole assembly for you.

[LeoZelig]

I got the shaft assembly back today. They balanced it, straightened it, and replaced both universal joints for $90... seemed pretty reasonable.

The folks really cared and did good work. Is it ok to plug the shop? If not, and you're in Atlanta and need drive shaft work, PM me and I'll send you their way.

I reinstalled the shaft this afternoon and took it for its test drive. Man, I had no idea how much vibration the shaft had been creating before it gave way... until I drove it with a straightened, balanced shaft. Smooth would be the word.

So clearly, the shaft was a problem even before it did its bobsled routine on I-285.

In the end, I'm glad I got to deal with it even though it was a scare and a pain, and the Eagle is stronger, quieter, and smoother today than she's ever been.

Thanks for everyone's help! Your advice was dead-on.

[Dragon]

Actually you got like 1969 prices.

They don't straighten the tube they take the ends off and then install a new tube then weld and balance it. No matter what, the metal tube cannot be straightened to a true form and distortion will cause a balance problem that would take a pound of weight to correct.

You really got a good deal. I had my F350s rear shaft done because it was repaired by an idiot and the idiot got the u-joint flanges out of correct orientation and it cost me 198 with new joints.

[Hawkrod]

Congratulations, I guess you proved me wrong. The damage must have been very minor as it takes too much effort to straighten a bent shaft. It is done but only when it is less expensive that retubing. Big trucks have it done all the time. They pull the dents out by welding something to the tube to pull on and then heating the tube around the dent. It is time consuming and then they have to straighten it in a press if it is out of tolerance (which it almost always is). Sounds like you found a good old timer who takes pride in doing it right! I still can't believe the ends were not damaged by the bearings letting go. Hawkrod