POR-15 V.S. primer and paint
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POR-15 V.S. primer and paint
I noticed that you mentioned POR-15 and metal ready. I'm just starting a project of my own and planned on sanding , priming and painting my underbody. I may change my mind now. What are the advantages of POR-15?
- trukcrazy
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re: POR-15 V.S. primer and paint
Hey Fordluver, welcome to the forum. What truck do you have? We also like pictures alot, especially projects. You might want to introduce yourself in the Welcome Mat so everyone can say hi!
John, #424
1967 F250 crewcab x 2.
2010 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport Quadcab
2008 Challenger SRT8
1967 F250 crewcab x 2.
2010 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport Quadcab
2008 Challenger SRT8
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re: POR-15 V.S. primer and paint
Thanks,,,,I'll get some photo's together...workin on a 72 ford body, puttin it on a 70 f250 4x4 frame....
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re: POR-15 V.S. primer and paint
I like the fact that you can brush or spray it on, right over top of the rust. Even though I take my down to bare metal anyway, it's not necessary. As long as you get loose dirt, grease and scaly rust removed, you can apply POR-15. It actually adheres better to slightly rusted surfaces than bare metal. It's also a LOT faster. I was able to strip down my firewall in one afternoon and have it completely coated with POR-15 (with several Krylon colorcoats) in a matter of hours. The time I'd have had to invest in priming and painting it myself (not to mention cleanup) would have been substantially more....and probably wouldn't have stood the test of time as well as POR-15. And there's the money savings. I did my firewall area with about a quarter of a quart can of POR-15 and two cans of Krylon.
Of course, my project is a daily driver truck, so some minor imperfections caused from my brushing it on are immaterial. The types of minor blemishes I'm getting would probably be eliminated if I'd have sprayed it on. However, if I'd been building it to show then I'd have primed and painted it, since the visual quality would have been better.
Of course, my project is a daily driver truck, so some minor imperfections caused from my brushing it on are immaterial. The types of minor blemishes I'm getting would probably be eliminated if I'd have sprayed it on. However, if I'd been building it to show then I'd have primed and painted it, since the visual quality would have been better.
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-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
- flyboy2610
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re: POR-15 V.S. primer and paint
Do you have to treat the POR-15 before you paint it?
Or is that only if you paint over it when dry and not tacky?
The reason I ask is that I've heard the stuff is so hard and slick that nothing will stick to it after it drys.
Or is that only if you paint over it when dry and not tacky?
The reason I ask is that I've heard the stuff is so hard and slick that nothing will stick to it after it drys.
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If you're going to live like there's no hell...............
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http://theworldasiseeit-flyboy2610.blog ... ee-it.html
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re: POR-15 V.S. primer and paint
I have por 15 on my radiator support. Had to sand it to apply black paint over it. It does not sand easily
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re: POR-15 V.S. primer and paint
Right, the POR-15 website suggests applying a color coat (if desired) while it's still tacky. Otherwise it will have to be sanded, and as Nefarious67 mentioned, once it's cured it's pretty hard and requires some effort to rough up enough to prime/paint. However, they also say their 'POR-15 Tie-Coat Primer' is the best thing to use prior to topcoating a cured application....don't know if that's true or they're simply pushing some more of their own products.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
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re: POR-15 V.S. primer and paint
I am looking at their site, but cannot tell for sure. What would be best for coating the frame? I am taking it all the way down to the frame and blasting the frame. Which would be best to coat that with? I like the option of brushing it on. That way I can make sure to hit every crevice.
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re: POR-15 V.S. primer and paint
Before photo of one of the inner fenders
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re: POR-15 V.S. primer and paint
After photos - in my extra bedroom....my wife isn't happy...but they will get dirty in the garage!
Underside - POR15 - epoxy primer then two coats of rubberized undercoating
Underside - POR15 - epoxy primer then two coats of rubberized undercoating
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re: POR-15 V.S. primer and paint
After photo....inside of inner fender - POR15 - Epoxy primer then PPG Delstar gloss black. Photo doesn't do it justice. First attempt at spraying went quite well!
YOu can see in the background, my other parts awaiting completion...someone come help! I NEED TO SAND THE CAB! ICK!
YOu can see in the background, my other parts awaiting completion...someone come help! I NEED TO SAND THE CAB! ICK!
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re: POR-15 V.S. primer and paint
http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=6
That's what I use and recommend. The only drawback not mentioned yet it's sensitivity to ultra-violet light. Over time it's deep black will start to fade, but it will still work as a rust-inhibitive product as before. However, since a frame is not something which really sees extended exposure to the sun, I would think the fading would be fairly limited. However, you can topcoat while the POR-15 is still tacky, which is what I do, so I won't have to worry about the fading. You could do the same on your frame if it's a concern.
As mentioned though, preparation is key to it's doing it's job and not coming off later down the road. If you can sandblast the frame, that's best. If not, use an angle grinder with a wire wheel attachment and plan on spending several weekends hitting every square inch of your frame to get it as clean as possible. Then use MarineClean on the frame, then MetalReady (to give it a slight etch for bite), rinse and apply POR-15.
That's what I use and recommend. The only drawback not mentioned yet it's sensitivity to ultra-violet light. Over time it's deep black will start to fade, but it will still work as a rust-inhibitive product as before. However, since a frame is not something which really sees extended exposure to the sun, I would think the fading would be fairly limited. However, you can topcoat while the POR-15 is still tacky, which is what I do, so I won't have to worry about the fading. You could do the same on your frame if it's a concern.
As mentioned though, preparation is key to it's doing it's job and not coming off later down the road. If you can sandblast the frame, that's best. If not, use an angle grinder with a wire wheel attachment and plan on spending several weekends hitting every square inch of your frame to get it as clean as possible. Then use MarineClean on the frame, then MetalReady (to give it a slight etch for bite), rinse and apply POR-15.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
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re: POR-15 V.S. primer and paint
Hmmmm. I'm interested in their engine enamels, for private tractor related reasons. Can anyone point me to an example of what Ford Green or Buick Green look like? I would need a deep forest green.
- cobraF100
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