Wow, this thread is moving kinda slow so...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/toe-in1.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/toe-in2.jpg
The few times an "ex-spurt" adjusted my toe-in, it was too much "in", like an 1/8" or more. :/
I even experimented with a little toe-out and decided that 0 to 1/32" in was my favorite. :)
Stopped the bad tire cupping problem I had since the pickup was -new-! :)
I believe my method with the cement blocks to be better than using a helper because the
cement block is consistent and not got anything better to do so is thinking only about holding
the 1+1/2" thin-wall square-tubing and nothing else. ;)
Two tricks to it, one is to use a 1" wide tape measure or bigger and learn how to repeat your
measurements. Second is to figure out what angle your steering wheel sits while going straight
down the road and have it at that angle when measuring the toe. That angle will change with
a change in the toe adjustment.
Has worked out really good for me. :)
IME, it's better than "pro" work, YMMV.
--------------------------------
Something that might be very important here is how my rear axle is -square- with its frame.
Also the position and "squareness" of my front eye-beams are right on the money too. :)
And the front end's "right height" as Ford calls it is good on mine too...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/rideheight.jpg
Measure yours and correct those problem first, IMO.
Alvin in AZ