Basketcase#16-once in a lifetime build-now gone. :-(
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- basketcase0302
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Re: Project Basketcase#16 "quick/low budget/rattle can build"
Jerry, thanks man. Hope the yote hunting is going well!
I got a little more done this week. I finished the D.S. battery tray and got it mounted:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16165.jpg
Then I started some wiring. I got the 14 gauge thhn wire ran to both headlights for my upgrade. I replaced the old headlight sockets with new ceramic ones / with brass terminals (soldered and heat shrink tubing as always). And I ran a dedicated ground to each headlight socket:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16163.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16164.jpg
Notice the #6 glove in the above picture! Wind chill here made it in the 20's (real hard to hold a solder iron steady) but I still keep pushin'!
I also had to replace the front running light gaskets, (hardly no gasket there) when repairing the butt joint connectors the PO had put into the wiring there.
Here's where my headlight leads terminate at:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16166.jpg
I'll be adding an enclosure there for a series of relays. I know it will be real nice after owning this truck for over five years, to have no more blinking headlights! And...I'll have a total of about $30.00 in materials for my upgrade including the relays / ceramic sockets / #14 thhn wire and a few spade type terminal ends. And it's custom made the way I want it, (using my core support for a raceway / and deciding where I wanted my relays located).
I got a few more parts cleaned up also. I got the air cleaner / snorkel / heat riser and valve covers cleaned up / primered / painted:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16171.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16170.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16169.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16172.jpg
The air cleaner assembly is aluminum. It's one I've had for many years, and has a few cracks in the base but should last me another few years. I got the valve covers a few years back from an evilbay deal. I've got a few more types including some Moroso anodized, but decided on these for a more stock look. The heat riser came from our forum member "MeanXLTDad".
Then I went to work on the F-600 instrument panel. I spent about eight hours making it into what I wanted / needed. It got sandblasted / then drilled / then primered / then painted:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16159.jpg
The stainless steel box in the below picture is my enclosure for my underhood relays.
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16158.jpg
And one coat of Rustoleum epoxy appliance almond to the face:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16160.jpg
Then I installed my ten year old Autometer tachometer (with it's own dedicated wiring harness). I've abandoned the amp gauge, (but left it there to fill the hole). I've added my three lighted toggle switches into the left side of the panel, (I'll disclose what the toggles are for at a later date). Touched up all the existing F-600 gauge needles (even the vacuum gauge) with chebby high heat orange.
Yeah I know, it's an omen...but for some reason I had this paint already!
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16162.jpg
And the panel face got one coat of high heat Rustoleum black:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16161.jpg
Then I replaced all the rusted screws in the F-600 panel with stainless screws. And I added, (when other members are filling in dash holes) yet another power source adjacent to the hazard switch.
And I finally got my intermittent wiper switch and box installed! I've had that for quite a few years now, just never took the time to put it in... BTW the box for the wiper delay is "cramped" with the F-600's vacuum gauge. I wound up moving it up on the steering column brace for clearance.
Here's the back of my panel:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16168.jpg
And here's the front:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16167.jpg
And here's what the panel looks like in the truck. I wound up using almond Rustoleum epoxy appliance paint, (that I had gotten for the body and decided not to use it there). I've got the gauge harness unhooked until I at least get through a cam break in, (then I'll look for all the little gremlins)!
I will hook up the vacuum gauge / my tach / oil pressure and temp though.
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16174.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16173.jpg
And the panel view from the driver's seat:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16175.jpg
It's hard to believe yet another week has gone by...but another good bump week!
I got a little more done this week. I finished the D.S. battery tray and got it mounted:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16165.jpg
Then I started some wiring. I got the 14 gauge thhn wire ran to both headlights for my upgrade. I replaced the old headlight sockets with new ceramic ones / with brass terminals (soldered and heat shrink tubing as always). And I ran a dedicated ground to each headlight socket:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16163.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16164.jpg
Notice the #6 glove in the above picture! Wind chill here made it in the 20's (real hard to hold a solder iron steady) but I still keep pushin'!
I also had to replace the front running light gaskets, (hardly no gasket there) when repairing the butt joint connectors the PO had put into the wiring there.
Here's where my headlight leads terminate at:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16166.jpg
I'll be adding an enclosure there for a series of relays. I know it will be real nice after owning this truck for over five years, to have no more blinking headlights! And...I'll have a total of about $30.00 in materials for my upgrade including the relays / ceramic sockets / #14 thhn wire and a few spade type terminal ends. And it's custom made the way I want it, (using my core support for a raceway / and deciding where I wanted my relays located).
I got a few more parts cleaned up also. I got the air cleaner / snorkel / heat riser and valve covers cleaned up / primered / painted:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16171.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16170.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16169.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16172.jpg
The air cleaner assembly is aluminum. It's one I've had for many years, and has a few cracks in the base but should last me another few years. I got the valve covers a few years back from an evilbay deal. I've got a few more types including some Moroso anodized, but decided on these for a more stock look. The heat riser came from our forum member "MeanXLTDad".
Then I went to work on the F-600 instrument panel. I spent about eight hours making it into what I wanted / needed. It got sandblasted / then drilled / then primered / then painted:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16159.jpg
The stainless steel box in the below picture is my enclosure for my underhood relays.
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16158.jpg
And one coat of Rustoleum epoxy appliance almond to the face:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16160.jpg
Then I installed my ten year old Autometer tachometer (with it's own dedicated wiring harness). I've abandoned the amp gauge, (but left it there to fill the hole). I've added my three lighted toggle switches into the left side of the panel, (I'll disclose what the toggles are for at a later date). Touched up all the existing F-600 gauge needles (even the vacuum gauge) with chebby high heat orange.
Yeah I know, it's an omen...but for some reason I had this paint already!
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16162.jpg
And the panel face got one coat of high heat Rustoleum black:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16161.jpg
Then I replaced all the rusted screws in the F-600 panel with stainless screws. And I added, (when other members are filling in dash holes) yet another power source adjacent to the hazard switch.
And I finally got my intermittent wiper switch and box installed! I've had that for quite a few years now, just never took the time to put it in... BTW the box for the wiper delay is "cramped" with the F-600's vacuum gauge. I wound up moving it up on the steering column brace for clearance.
Here's the back of my panel:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16168.jpg
And here's the front:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16167.jpg
And here's what the panel looks like in the truck. I wound up using almond Rustoleum epoxy appliance paint, (that I had gotten for the body and decided not to use it there). I've got the gauge harness unhooked until I at least get through a cam break in, (then I'll look for all the little gremlins)!
I will hook up the vacuum gauge / my tach / oil pressure and temp though.
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16174.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16173.jpg
And the panel view from the driver's seat:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16175.jpg
It's hard to believe yet another week has gone by...but another good bump week!
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
- FreakysFords
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Re: Project Basketcase#16 "quick/low budget/rattle can build"
Lookin good BC! You're making want to go work on the 1 ton. MUST refuse urge.
Darlin 69 Ranger 390 4v, PS, DS II, disc front, 3G alternator, 67 mirror.
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Re: Project Basketcase#16 "quick/low budget/rattle can build"
Still looking good there Jeff. For a rush job you're really doing a lot of detail work there, this truck is going to look good when you're finished.
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Re: Project Basketcase#16 "quick/low budget/rattle can build"
Aww..c'mon man, you know you wanna' build three trucks at once!FreakysFords on Tue Feb 16, 2010 9:17 pm
Lookin good BC! You're making want to go work on the 1 ton. MUST refuse urge.
TOF, thanks again man. Sadly enough, now I'm out of time so I'm having to skip details I'd like to do.ToughOldFord on Wed Feb 17, 2010 9:19 am
Still looking good there Jeff. For a rush job you're really doing a lot of detail work there, this truck is going to look good when you're finished.
Still looking good there Jeff. For a rush job you're really doing a lot of detail work there, this truck is going to look good when you're finished.
I got quite a bit more done today, (even with a temperature of 38 here this morning). I really wish that this winter would leave finally...
Yesterday I finally got the 3/8" rear fuel line ran to the back of the truck via the frame rail. This enabled me to run the new rear 3/16" brake line / double flared and tied into the rear axle soft rubber line (I've attached my 3/16" brake lines to the 3/8" fuel lines):
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16176.jpg
Here's most of my tools I've used to fabricate all the new brake lines. The small pieces of tubing in this picture are all that I have left, (of the 25 foot roll of 3/16" tubing I got from Summmit to re-plumb the brake lines). My hand held tubing bender got a real workout bending the new 3/8" steel gas lines. And the Summit 3/16" fitting kit wound up being a life saver!
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16182.jpg
And I finally got the new NPD rear axle bump stops mounted. I had been procrastinating doing this...due to my framing for the gooseneck hitch. I knew it would be tight getting to the nuts to tighten them, but I got it done!
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16177.jpg
Then i spent a few hours re-mounting the brake MC and fabricating the new lines for it. The line for the rear brakes to the re-located distribution block was quite a challenge! A bazillion bends to keep it away from the P.S. box:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16180.jpg
Here's another view of the re-located distribution block with the new brake lines attached:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16179.jpg
I can't even look at a master cylinder without the paint coming off of it!
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16181.jpg
Now I'll procrastinate the bleeding of all the new lines! I'll have to wait to do that, (I know I'll have at least one of the four existing bleeders break).
I ended the day mounting the new LED tail lights, (which are re-attached in the original location via re-worked mounts):
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16178.jpg
Hopefully tomorrow I can get the new wiring harness ran to the rear of the truck.
Another good bump day!
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
- FreakysFords
- Blue Oval Fanatic
- Posts: 815
- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:58 pm
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- Contact:
Re: Project Basketcase#16 "quick/low budget/rattle can build"
LOL Don't tempt me man! Naw, I gotta get to work on the "house / shop" firstbasketcase0302 wrote:Aww..c'mon man, you know you wanna' build three trucks at once!FreakysFords on Tue Feb 16, 2010 9:17 pm
Lookin good BC! You're making want to go work on the 1 ton. MUST refuse urge.
I'll say! Looks like you're down the the knuckle bustin details!basketcase0302 wrote:Another good bump day!
Glad to see you put the stress coils in your m/c tubing (not that I'd expect otherwise )
I just hope you have time to drive it after you get it finished and pass out
I like your style bud, get at it and get it done.
Darlin 69 Ranger 390 4v, PS, DS II, disc front, 3G alternator, 67 mirror.
-
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Re: Project Basketcase#16 "quick/low budget/rattle can build"
Man you are FLYING on this thing! Looking good, thanks for all the detailed pics
1970 F250 Camper Special
"Its no coincidence that man's best friend can't talk."
"Its no coincidence that man's best friend can't talk."
- basketcase0302
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Re: Project Basketcase#16 "quick/low budget/rattle can build"
BigDogg, I wish it was gonna be half as nice as your truck man! I've never been out of work in my life, so I've tried to make the most of every minute on the truck. Hopefully the pictures might save someone else a little time and effort someday.BiggDogg on Fri Feb 19, 2010 1:18 pm
Man you are FLYING on this thing! Looking good, thanks for all the detailed pics
I'd like to say I'm winding down now but that's not the case. I've been trying to finish a few of the little items on the truck, (in an effort to clean out my shop) before I tear into the engine.
I really needed more than about 10 sq. feet of room to tear into the engine!
Well, I think I'm finally there, (having enough room in the shop to tear into the 302).
My buddy Doug came through again and got the 302's 164 tooth flywheel sand-blasted for me:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16183.jpg
And I also finally found a place to hide the chebby orange high heat engine enamel paint:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16187.jpg
Then I went back to work on the spare tire carrier. My buddy Doug brought his mig welder over Saturday, and got the main support for my crank down spare tire carrier welded in. And then yesterday, I spent another four hours finishing up the assembly. I had to mount a piece of channel across the frame for the one side of the tire to pull up against. It was kinda' challenging as to mounting this brace, (without interfering with my electrical inside the frame rail and a few other things). And I had to bore a 1 and 1/4" hole through the frame rail for the newly fabricated (out of steel schedule 40 emt conduit I had) crank extension. I found a rubber "stopper" for the end of the extension also, (this will keep the "dirt dobber/mud dobbers" out of there). The only thing I'm really missing is a rubber bushing between the crank handle and the frame steel, (to stop any vibration). Maybe I can find one down the road. Here's the E-series conversion van tire assembly as complete as it's gonna get:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16186.jpg
I routed the handle out of the P.S. so I wouldn't be in the road lowering my tire. And get ran over by a chebby (notice the bump in this video)!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llH5SxITrrI
And here's my custom made handle, (it's an old 1/2" X 16" extension I had) that I ground down to create the two flats needed. I've always carried a 1/2" drive breaker bar for my 9/16" wheel studs/lugs anyway, so the extension works out nicely for me.
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16184.jpg
Here's the old tire carrier:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... can007.jpg
And here's the new "lost 50 pounds easily" tire carrier look:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16185.jpg
I also got my schedule 40 gray PVC pipe ran into the P.S. frame rail yesterday for the rear (and future headache rack) wiring. But I didn't get the wires pulled into it before dark. Tomorrow I'm hopefully finally able to tear into the "little 302". I believe I've finally got about all I would need to re-assemble the long block.
A decent bump day again!
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
- FLATBEDFORD
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Re: Project Basketcase#16 "quick/low budget/rattle can build"
Nice tire carrier. I don't carry a spare on my truck. I don't usually go far from home. If I do go far, I throw a spare on the bed. You say the studs/lugs are 9/16". The lug nuts are 1 1/16" right?
Steve
1970 F350 DRW Factory 9' Platform/Stake, 360, T18.
Passed on to new care taker July, 2013
My Photo Gallery
http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/flatbedford/
1970 F350 DRW Factory 9' Platform/Stake, 360, T18.
Passed on to new care taker July, 2013
My Photo Gallery
http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/flatbedford/
- basketcase0302
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Re: Project Basketcase#16 "quick/low budget/rattle can build"
Steve, I believe your right about the lugs. I was just trying to get the point across of how hard they can be to get loose sometimes.You say the studs/lugs are 9/16". The lug nuts are 1 1/16" right?
Especially if you try to tighten the left hand threaded ones! Just made me remember something else i need to attack on the truck, (I've had the new R.H. studs for a few years now also for the rear wheel).
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
- FLATBEDFORD
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 1818
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 1:34 pm
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Re: Project Basketcase#16 "quick/low budget/rattle can build"
I was thinking about changing mine, but haven't gotten around to it.
Steve
1970 F350 DRW Factory 9' Platform/Stake, 360, T18.
Passed on to new care taker July, 2013
My Photo Gallery
http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/flatbedford/
1970 F350 DRW Factory 9' Platform/Stake, 360, T18.
Passed on to new care taker July, 2013
My Photo Gallery
http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/flatbedford/
- FreakysFords
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Re: Project Basketcase#16 "quick/low budget/rattle can build"
Lovin the ditch side tire handle setup!
AND if yur gonna use gm colors, might as well be where it won't be seen for another 20 yrs
Nice work man.
Frank
AND if yur gonna use gm colors, might as well be where it won't be seen for another 20 yrs
Nice work man.
Frank
Darlin 69 Ranger 390 4v, PS, DS II, disc front, 3G alternator, 67 mirror.
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Re: Project Basketcase#16 "quick/low budget/rattle can build"
There goes the starterbasketcase0302 wrote:
And I also finally found a place to hide the chebby orange high heat engine enamel paint:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16187.jpg
I've had enough and I'm not alone
http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii304/67mann/
http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii304/67mann/
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Re: Project Basketcase#16 "quick/low budget/rattle can build"
Steve, I know what you mean man. Only so much time in a day, hopefully I'll get the studs replaced soon.FLATBEDFORD on Wed Feb 24, 2010 7:46 pm
I was thinking about changing mine, but haven't gotten around to it.
Frank, I hope I don't have to see it for another 20 years. Thanks man.FreakysFords on Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:33 pm
Lovin the ditch side tire handle setup!
AND if yur gonna use gm colors, might as well be where it won't be seen for another 20 yrs
Nice work man.
Frank
Jerry, exactly my thought man!There goes the starter
Well I finally got to tear into the "little 302" today.
Here's what the shop looked like ready to work on the engine:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16188.jpg
Keep in mind...this was the engine I bought form evilbay about 5 years ago as a long block that was suppose to be rebuilt!
The first thing I see that I don't like is that the gasket surfaces had not even been cleaned up:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16189.jpg
So let's pull the top end apart...the engine had some kinda' "oriental made" dime store head gaskets on it, and the block surface really need planed to ensure a good head gasket seal. At least they did install a new cam / new lifters / left the used pushrods and original rockers:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16194.jpg
Now I can see that the engine has been taken .030 over with new pistons and rings. I don't like what I'm seeing for the finish on the cylinder walls though:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16195.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16196.jpg
Here you can see where apparently they didn't even "hot tank" the engine block before the rebuild! Look at all the rust in the water jackets! Two of the small passages at the top of the cylinder head were actually clogged with rust!
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16197.jpg
Probably hard to see below, but i got about a coke can full of rust out of the water jacket side of the engine block. Enough IMO to plug a water pump's impeller / plug a thermostat / etc.
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16198.jpg
Ready to pull the crankshaft / camshaft / and bearings out:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16199.jpg
Here's the engine ID:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16190.jpg
Comparing the "new" oil pump that came with the engine vs. my high volume oil pump from my 4 X 4 oil pan's pump. The new pump is not a high volume.
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16192.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16193.jpg
So...it's off the the machine shop tomorrow morning for a quote:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16200.jpg
The minimum this block will need IMO to be dependable enough for me is:
1) Hot tanking to remove some more of the rust inside the water jacket.
2) Magna-flux the block (I saw what appeared to be a scratch/maybe a crack in a cylinder wall).
3) Put a cross-hatch finish on the cylinder walls.
4) Plane head gasket surface at least .010
And I don't like what I saw with a few of the "new" bearings either!
Bearings on an engine that has not even been started, should not have any scoring IMO!
I'll now have to wait till I get the block back to plasti-gage the bearings, (and pray I don't have to have the crank turned).
Long day, but another decent bump day!
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
- FreakysFords
- Blue Oval Fanatic
- Posts: 815
- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:58 pm
- Location: Gadsden Alabama
- Contact:
Re: Project Basketcase#16 "quick/low budget/rattle can build"
Gotta agree with ya, looks to me like it was certainly ran. At the very least, spun over (vertical marks in cyl wals). You'll have her straight in no time
Found a 71 or 72 DRW in the junkyard today and if I had any time what so ever, I'd have to go snatch it up and copy a ton or two of your ideas to date.
Actually, I am thinking of making an offer on it anyway and storing it at the farm till I can do something with it. . . . . . . it's a wrecker.
Found a 71 or 72 DRW in the junkyard today and if I had any time what so ever, I'd have to go snatch it up and copy a ton or two of your ideas to date.
Actually, I am thinking of making an offer on it anyway and storing it at the farm till I can do something with it. . . . . . . it's a wrecker.
Darlin 69 Ranger 390 4v, PS, DS II, disc front, 3G alternator, 67 mirror.
- FLATBEDFORD
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 1818
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 1:34 pm
- Location: New York, Crugers
- Contact:
Re: Project Basketcase#16 "quick/low budget/rattle can build"
Does it have these shock mounts?FreakysFords wrote:Gotta agree with ya, looks to me like it was certainly ran. At the very least, spun over (vertical marks in cyl wals). You'll have her straight in no time
Found a 71 or 72 DRW in the junkyard today and if I had any time what so ever, I'd have to go snatch it up and copy a ton or two of your ideas to date.
Actually, I am thinking of making an offer on it anyway and storing it at the farm till I can do something with it. . . . . . . it's a wrecker.
I have been looking for a set of those for years.
Steve
1970 F350 DRW Factory 9' Platform/Stake, 360, T18.
Passed on to new care taker July, 2013
My Photo Gallery
http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/flatbedford/
1970 F350 DRW Factory 9' Platform/Stake, 360, T18.
Passed on to new care taker July, 2013
My Photo Gallery
http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/flatbedford/