390FE (406ci) for #50, built by Tom Lucas at FE Specialties.

[robroy]

Good morning Alvin, Robert, and Power By Ford 70 F250 4x4, thanks for your great replies!

http://www.robroygregg.com/Number50/IMG_6574xx.JPG

{Wow! Cool! picture! :}

Thanks Alvin--glad you liked it!

Jaimie prob'ly just forgot (I sure enough did) that you had that fancy starter.

That's understandable! Many details have gone in to this project. The quality of the RobbMc starter seems very impressive, and Robb himself is so responsive to questions about it!

Next header-thread I see, I'll call for pictures in -it-.

Good idea! If I still had my OEM starter, I'd install it also so a side-by-side comparison of clearances could be made.

Nice to see the progress!

Thanks! It's steadily coming along.

Can't wait until #50 is driving down the road (and the chassis dyno numbers)

Same here! I'm rather curious to discover how #50 will feel on the road now, while applying conservative engine throttle. I'm sure it will impress me if I push it, but what about when I'm not pushing it? I'm hoping that the truck will feel much more weightless than before--it used to feel like it was struggling to get around (which I'm sure it was).

Its been a lot of fun reading this project ever night, expecially since I am doing the exact same thing a couple of weeks behind your progress.

Excellent! Well I hope in so doing the exact same thing, you're skipping over my numerous mishaps! It has been a poignant education for me.

I have certianly learned a few things.

Great!

So I would like to thank you for all the time and effort you put in to sharing your experience with us.

You're most welcome, and I appreciate your most gracious thanks.

I also would like to know what brand of headers you went with and what size primaries?

I'm using Hedman 89810 headers, and I'm not sure about the size of their primaries. Oddly, I don't see that specification listed on the Hedman site. I'm ignorant regarding this spec' and how to measure it, but I'd be happy to take any measurements for you that you'd care to walk me through!

I should mention that my 89810 headers weren't selected as part of a highly tuned exhaust system. Here's the thread wherein the selection was discussed. The thread includes some specification tables I created to assist with deduction; you may find those interesting. Which headers for a 400HP FE w/dual 2.5" pipes?

Alvin, Robert, and Power By Ford 70 F250 4x4, thanks for your superb replies!
Robroy

[kyle ray]

hey robroy, just looking at you last pics Did you use the REMFLEX exhaust gaskets again. I know you had them before.. Just curious. I have their web site bookmarked because of you.

[robroy]

Good evening Kyle, thanks for your excellent reply!

hey robroy, just looking at you last pics Did you use the REMFLEX exhaust gaskets again. I know you had them before.. Just curious.

I'm planning on using them again, yes! In the latest photo (that illustrated the clearance between the header and the starter), I wasn't using any gasket at all. The header was just loosely held on with a few bolts.

I wasn't sure whether or not I wanted to spend another $60 or $70 for a new set of RemFlex gaskets, especially since with my new pristine exhaust surfaces on the heads (re-done by FE Specialties), they may have been overkill. But when RemFlex offered to send me new gaskets for $45 or so, I figured that I'd go with them again!

They were really nice on the phone and understood that I wasn't able to get any use out of my original set, so they gave me that special price on a replacement set.

I have their web site bookmarked because of you.

Excellent! If the exhaust surfaces on your heads are less than ideal, these gaskets seem like a great idea.

And now that you mention it, I just remembered that I have a sample of the material they use to make their gaskets (which they send with new gasket sets). If you're interested in that, PM me your address and I'll mail you the sample! It's a weird material that's fun to play with.

Kyle Ray, thanks for your superb reply!
Robroy

[robroy]

Good evening!

#50's engine and transmission are now ready to re-install! You can click on any of these photos for much larger, higher definition versions.

I cleaned the main drive gear and coated it with a fresh film of white lithium grease.



Here's a last look inside the bell housing before the transmission's installed. Hopefully I won't have this view again for years to come.



I fiddled around with the hoists to get the engine and transmission lined up.




The transmission went in most of the way but, predictably, the insertion of the main drive gear in to the pilot bearing was stubborn.




The pilot bearing was resisting the transmission, and I didn't want to get rough with it. So I got the transmission lined up as well as possible, then Kasie started the four bolts while I wiggled both the engine and transmission around to encourage them. She was being such a good sport. With her help it went together easily, and with minimal force!



I accomplished the final 1/2" of coupling by gently and evenly tightening down all four bolts. That pulled the two parts together very easily! In these photos you can see the remaining 1/2" gap that I shored up.







With the coupling complete, I torqued the four bolts to 45 ft/lbs. It was nice to release the transmission from the second engine crane and get it rolled out of the way!




I lowered the engine and transmission unit down on to some wood blocks for added stability, although I left the engine crane attached and secure.





I just need to attend to a few chassis details, then I'll slide the engine back in!

Thanks for all the fantastic guidance!
Robroy

[Ranchero50]

FYI, on things like this it's much easier if the engine is sitting level and resting on a block of wood so you're not chasing the darned thing all over the shop. Also by sitting level with the floor the the tranny will slide in without having to be lifted as well.

Takes some of the 'fun' out of it though.
Jamie

[Alvin in AZ]

Cool, you guys! :)

Here's a few pictures I'd like to add here...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/guidepins.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist6m.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/guidepin.jpg
...now that Kasie's seen the process...
I bet the pictures will mean something to her too. :)
The ZF stopped at the engine's ~tight alignment pins.
Slid up to that point, slick as anything! LOL :)

Alvin in AZ

[robroy]

Good afternoon Jamie and Alvin, thanks for your excellent replies!

FYI, on things like this it's much easier if the engine is sitting level and resting on a block of wood so you're not chasing the darned thing all over the shop.

You must be right here! For some reason I thought the hovering engine setup would be beneficial to prevent damage to the pilot bearing by softening the impact of errant "stabs" before I hit the bull's eye. But now that I tried it out, I'm sure you're probably right. It was easier last time I went through this, when the engine was held still on its shipping pallet.

Also by sitting level with the floor the the tranny will slide in without having to be lifted as well.

It's funny that you'd mention this, because as I was resting the engine and transmission on the wooden blocks, I noticed that the bottom of the transmission seemed to be pretty even with the bottom of the oil pan! So what you're saying makes complete sense.

Takes some of the 'fun' out of it though.

Yeah, wouldn't want that. HA!

Cool, you guys!

Thanks Alvin!

Here's a few pictures I'd like to add here...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/guidepins.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist6m.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/guidepin.jpg

Those are excellent--thanks for them! I remember your great suggestion to use the studs as guides the first time around, and it was really helpful then. This time, the rope I was using to suspend the T18 was getting in the way, so I did it the less clever way!

...now that Kasie's seen the process... I bet the pictures will mean something to her too.

I'll show her your photos and see what she says!

The ZF stopped at the engine's ~tight alignment pins. Slid up to that point, slick as anything! LOL

Gosh! By then you had it close enough to start a couple of bolts, right? I didn't realize that the ZF had an integral bell housing, and now that I see that I understand your sentence much better.

Progress on the engine installation will resume tomorrow once this one's complete: Should I replace this dented stainless brake line?

Jamie and Alvin, thanks for your great advice!
Robroy

[67mann]

Look's great Robroy----it's gonna be a great "Rockingchair" memory yr's on down the road

[DuckRyder]

Coming along nicely...

Is that Kasie's E-Class? Maybe you could wash her wheels for her in return for her being such a good sport...

[Alvin in AZ]

Also by sitting level with the floor the the tranny will slide in without having to be lifted as well.

...was resting the engine and transmission on the wooden blocks, I noticed that the bottom of
the transmission seemed to be pretty even with the bottom of the oil pan!

I've never had both out at the same time before so never knew that either. LOL :)

All I know-ed;)was, the transmission resting on it's crossmember at the back and (not bolted to the frame)
plus resting on the guide-pins in front (either screwed into the engine or into the back of the bell housing)
the transmission will slide in or out, like it's on rails. The "stabbing at it, hoping this time it'll hit the mark"
business, isn't involved with that setup. ;)

Alvin in AZ

[robroy]

Good afternoon 67Mann, Robert, and Alvin, thanks for the fantastic replies!

Look's great Robroy----it's gonna be a great "Rockingchair" memory yr's on down the road

Thanks 67Mann! It sure will be a great memory won't it. These photos will probably be quite vintage and nostalgic when I'm 80 years old, in year 2060.

Coming along nicely...

Thanks very much Robert!

Is that Kasie's E-Class?

Good eye! That's Kasie's '93 400E.

Maybe you could wash her wheels for her in return for her being such a good sport...

I really should do that--you're right!

All I know-ed was, the transmission resting on it's crossmember at the back and (not bolted to the frame) plus resting on the guide-pins in front (either screwed into the engine or into the back of the bell housing) the transmission will slide in or out, like it's on rails. The "stabbing at it, hoping this time it'll hit the mark" business, isn't involved with that setup.

Using studs as guides seems like the most ideal strategy, and next time I do this task I'll surely take the time to make it work that way. I don't particularly care for the idea of smacking the side of that beautiful, new pilot bearing with the transmission main drive gear, after all!

Thanks to the great help I received in Should I replace this dented stainless brake line?, that issue's resolved! And I took some time to paint the T18 top plate before sliding it in--there are some photos in Making a T18 top end nice and tight: canes and top covers.

With those things out of the way, I did a little paint touch-up on the frame and loosely fastened the Autofab engine mounts to the new engine!

Here's #50 as it sits today.




I touched up the top half of the Autofab transmission mount with an Eastwood Rust Encapsulator rattle-can. The Rust Bullet Automotive and 'Black Shell paint I originally finished it with had gotten pretty beat up from all the engine installing and pulling.



Here's the frame area with a few touch-ups.



And the Autofab mounts loosely installed on The Yellow Jacket.



67Mann, Robert, and Alvin, thanks again for your quality replies!
Robroy

[Ranchero50]

It isn't in YET???

Jamie

[robroy]

Good day Jamie, thanks for replying!

It isn't in YET???

Not quite yet! But y'all have the satisfaction of knowing that as long as I'm alive, there will always be at least one person on Earth that y'all will be faster than--that's the special service I'm rendering these days.

I made some progress yesterday afternoon! Any of these photos may be clicked upon to yield much higher resolution and definition versions.

First I removed the oil filter adapter to provide clearance for the Autofab engine perch bolt to go in from the front, instead of the back. The benefit of installing the bolt from the front is that some day, when it's time for the bolt to come out again, it can come out by removing the oil filter adapter instead of removing the header!



A great side effect of this will be swapping out the full-length FRAM filter with a 3/4 length WIX.



The oil filter adapter came off easily.



I put it in a Zip-Lock to keep popcorn kernels and hornet nests out.



Here's a good close-up of the old gasket (click on it for an extreme close-up).



Here's the new gasket I have to replace it with, if that would be a good idea. It's a Fel-Pro 70135.



With the preparation complete, I began the installation! Every time I get ready to push the crane around with the engine attached, I remember Jamie's advice to sweep the floor with great care, since those little wheels love to catch on tiny rocks.



It was fortunate that the hook position on the lift plate gave me a nice angle. I thought about using a load-leveler device, but I figured it would be over-kill. Plus, I had trouble with one of those interfering with the cab before.



Like before, I wound up having to lift it pretty high to clear the Autofab perches. Since it was possible to lift the engine over them, I didn't want to bother with removing them from the frame and re-installing them.



Got it over the perches!



I stuck a piece of cardboard between the brake booster and the valve cover--last time they rubbed together and scratched the cover's black wrinkle finish.



About that time, a lumpy, rectangular banana slug started to creep in to the cab through the transmission opening.



Got one side bolted in!



And the bolt started in the other side! Here's the engine pretty much in place.



Question: do y'all think I should replace the oil filter adapter gasket with my new one? I'm asking because the old one's stuck to the block, and it looks like I'd have to clearance the oil passage holes in the new gasket to match it.

Jamie, thanks again for your reply!
Robroy

[70_F100]

Great progress, Robroy!!

As for the gasket, make sure it's wiped off well and the filter adapter didn't pull any of the material off with it, and if all looks good, just bolt it back on.

The engine hasn't been run long enough for heat to have given the gasket "memory".

And, if it leaks a little, it's not that big of a deal to replace it later.

My guess, though, is that you won't have any problem whatsoever with the old gasket.

[Alvin in AZ]

Question: do y'all think I should replace the oil filter adapter gasket with my new one?
I'm asking because the old one's stuck to the block, and it looks like I'd have to clearance
the oil passage holes in the new gasket to match it.

1 vote for yes, so far. :)
...so clearance it silly. ;)
I'd prob'ly use a sharp knife with the gasket on a piece of wood.
It'd be cool to hear other guys methods on that tho. :)
{edit} What about no gasket at all? ...just use "gasket maker"?

Ok, 70 sez to ignore the fact it's ripped? LOL :) {edit} Looking closer not sure it is ripped.
Never even thought of that but I suppose it'd work. :)
What gasket maker type stuff to use on this?
Old Permatex? Ultra Black? Right Stuff?

Alvin in AZ