Basketcase#16-once in a lifetime build-now gone. :-(

[bb429power]

Stupid me, I thought it was an aftermarket panel and not an f600 instrument panel. I always do that.

[basketcase0302]

Grandpas69f350 on Sat Mar 27, 2010 11:37 am
Have you picked out a bed for it?

Yes, I've made my "final decision" as the millionaire show folks would say.
After years of research and emails and quotes I've decided on a local builder for the bed. I say local...the shop is just down the road in Saint Petersburg, Florida which is about one hour from me. I went and spoke to the guy about two months ago and got the quote for my bed. I will go with a custom built bed to my specifications. So that it will not be a "universal" type bed that I'd have to do a lot of work on to make fit BC # 16. This will also insure the "trap door" for my gooseneck hitch is where it should be. The quote on the new aluminum flat bed bed is still around 3K. But all the others quotes were more than that (and would not be a custom fit) when the truck freight was factored into the price).
Most the other companies flat beds also utilize plates on the side to "bolt onto" my frame rails for mounting which I did not like. I'll use my four existing frame mounts and threaded type rods to bolt the new bed onto BC # 16, (which to me will be a more "original look").
I'm now in a "holding pattern" to sell the 03' Expedition (which will fund the price of the new bed) for a few weeks. I gotta' put new front pads on the Expedition today, (had to go buy a 7MM allen head yesterday to do the brakes on it).

Here's my rough drawings on how the bed will be built (sure wish I knew CAD)
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... awing1.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... dpage2.jpg

[FreakysFords]

Nice man. Nothing like something truly designed for the fit and function it's going to see!

Frank

[basketcase0302]

FreakysFords on Sun Mar 28, 2010 2:53 pm
Nice man. Nothing like something truly designed for the fit and function it's going to see!

Frank

Thanks Frank, she'll be a work horse still / that's for sure.

My son helped me on the brakes for a few hours yesterday. We got all four bleeders broke loose then re-installed them with teflon tape on them. Re-installed the seat finally and mounted the new brake pedall assembly.
We then bench bled the old M/C, (which seemed to go ok). Then broke out the Mityvac tool and started bleeding all the new brake lines. Seemed to have gotten all the air out of the new lines so decided to check the brake pedal.
No pedal / nothing at all!
The old M/C was in pretty bad shape when I had pulled it out, (worse than most I've ever seen as far as fluid contamination goes). Verified all lines clear of air once again, before the Mityvac tool broke...
So now I'll have to replace the M/C.
Here's that "can of worms" again biting me in the butt!

[basketcase0302]

I was finally able to take the "little 302's" crank into my "new" machine shop" yesterday in Brandon, Florida. The guys have been around in the Tampa area building hipo engines for Floridians for over 20 years.
And yes just as I had suspected from visual inspection on the bearings...two mains were more than .005 out of specification. When he miked' the crank in front of me he seemed to think the crank had been worked on (had been turned .010) but not by a good machine shop.
I'm having them magna-flux / turn / polish / and supply me with the proper Clevite77 main & rod bearings. No idea on the cost yet, but it had to be done.

[bb429power]

It will probably end up a total of .020 cut off. But your not going to be spinning the engine that much, and even if you were, the crank would hold up. You should be fine, I hope it doesn't cost you too much.

[basketcase0302]

It will probably end up a total of .020 cut off. But your not going to be spinning the engine that much, and even if you were, the crank would hold up. You should be fine, I hope it doesn't cost you too much.

Yeah, me too!

[basketcase0302]

Finally got the crank back yesterday, (looks real nice/glad i had it turned) and the new Clevitte 77 main and rod bearings. I'll start assembling the engine today hopefully!

And had to order a new (not rebuilt) MC from NAPA here in town, sure hope they get the right one.

[FreakysFords]

HUGE step forward. Hope it didn't leave too big a dent.

Frank

[basketcase0302]

FreakysFords on Sat Apr 17, 2010 10:56 pm


HUGE step forward. Hope it didn't leave too big a dent.

Frank

Not too big of a dent, and the machine shop I've found has a good reputation for many years here in Central Florida (unlike the guy I was using).
And as of today, I've once again got a rotating assembly of an engine!
Same stage I was in months ago! But I'm a lot more comfortable knowing the engine should be right now, and dependable.
Here's how my mains plasti-gaged out yesterday:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... ild001.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... ild002.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... ild003.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... ild005.jpg
All of the mains measured between .010-.015, (within specification).

But my camshaft is another issue...It is the camshaft that came in the "rebuilt" engine that I started with.
I can't see a name brand (only a few numbers). And when I bolted the timing chain and gears on, now the fuel pump ecentric index is not long enough to engage the ecentric!
I tried to pull the index out so I could get a longer one, but no way it was coming out. Once again economics prohibit me from getting another cam or from stopping to correct this issue.
So I'll run an electric fuel pump.
Here's the cam:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... ild008.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... ild006.jpg

And the index that is too short for the ecentric to engage into:

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... ild007.jpg

I wound up with the engine masked off and high heat rattle can primered at the end of today.
Another good bump day!

[Thunderfoot]

Jeff, something don't seem right, that dowel pin in the cam looks like it is plenty long for the fuel pump drive eccentric... Are you using the "cam spacer" with the new style gear? The new gears have the spacer built into them...
I'll see if I can find one of my cams in the morning and take a pic of it to compare with yours.

[basketcase0302]

Thunderfoot on Mon Apr 19, 2010 1:45 am
Jeff, something don't seem right, that dowel pin in the cam looks like it is plenty long for the fuel pump drive eccentric... Are you using the "cam spacer" with the new style gear? The new gears have the spacer built into them...
I'll see if I can find one of my cams in the morning and take a pic of it to compare with yours.

Shayne, its a brand new competition cams double roller set I've had stashed away for years. The timing gear on the cam seems like it won't go on any further short of hammering on it (aint' gonna do that). I was kinda surprised to run into this (but the cam itself looks so generic it doesn't really surprise me).

I'm open for suggestions here but am once again limited on time, (hope to get the timing cover on it no later than Wednesday) so I can move forward.

[Thunderfoot]

Hard to tell exactly from pictures but it sure looks like it is right... Here is the pic (sorry for crappy pics) of one of my cams and I also measured it, the pin sticks past the end of the cam 1/4 inch.

If the cam timing gear doesn't go on all the way then the cam will have to much end play and walk back and forth in the motor taking out the lifters... That spacer built into the timing gear is set for the thickness of the cam retention plate...

[basketcase0302]

Shayne thanks. One thing I've failed to do is to tighten the bolt into the gear to see if it will pull it forward anymore (which might give me the extra length I need for the fuel pump ecentric)?
I'll try this tomorrow before installing the cover over the gears. It's only the third engine I've ever built in my life and I'm going by the books I have, so I appreciate any input on it.
Here's my cam, (where the pin looks to be about the same length of the pic you posted above):

[basketcase0302]

Well I got past the fuel pump eccentric issue, then ran into timing pointer issues.
Coulda' swore I had the timing chain and gears off, (when I'd taken my time to verify that is was right when installing).
So...I pulled the oil pan back off / pulled the water pump back off / and pulled the timing cover back off.
Only to find the timing pointer I've pulled off of another of my SBF's here has got to be the wrong one. So I pull another timing pointer from another of my SBF's here and the timing marks align up perfectly at TDC.
But...when installing the water pump the pump was hitting the timing pointer!
So...I had to pull the "second pointer" back off (the one that the marks actually lined up, and put the first one back on). I'll at least have this one to reference when starting the engine.

The fuel pump /cam index I ad to make:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... ild016.jpg

The Comp Cams double roller installed and aligned, (the 3rd times a charm)!
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... ild017.jpg

Using the degree wheel and the dial to verify TDC:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... ild023.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... ild022.jpg

Using the damper to align the timing cover when installing, (ready for the water pump). And here's the timing pointer I'm left to use:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... ild018.jpg

Ready for the oil pan, this is the Bronco 4 X 4 pickup. Sure with it was a high volume pump, (standard volume that came with the "rebuilt engine").
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... ild019.jpg
And the Bronco's 4 X 4 pan installed:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... ild020.jpg

The bottom end buttoned up / water pump installed / ready for the heads!
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... ild021.jpg

Target (2nd scheduled target) of this weekend to get the engine and tranny "stuffed" into the truck!