Drawing of my dream Bumpside paint job (one day on #50).

[390F100]

Fordman,
Did you stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. haha, just kidding, I have absolutely no experience in body or paint and still would not try it no matter how much I studied it. I would try it if I didn't want a nice paint job, but thats just me. I wish you guys luck, you are much braver than I am.

[fordman]

here is a basics of what i know. you dont start and stop on the object being painted. you have to stand the correct distance from the object being painted. you must have a smooth surface or the paint will show all the little dings and repair places and all the rock chips that didnt get feathered out before priming the surface. also you can let the first coat dry and then wet sand it and put another coat on top of the first coat to give the paint a deep look. the place that may hold me up is welding body panels together.

[rjewkes]

Hey Fordman,

You can practice painting on mine.

[robroy]

I just found this Dentside photo. The paint job is very similar to what I have in mind for #50, just with a different pattern. But it's the same combo of yellow and black and white checkers.



-Robroy

[BiggDogg]

Wow Robroy, I seriously thought you had a one-of-a-kind idea there for your paint scheme. The dentside looks nice, but the drawing you made looks better to me . Although I do like the wavy affect in the dent.

[F100builder]

Painting is not rocket science. It does however take some patience and a little coordination. The absolute most important thing to remember is that a paint job is only as good as the prep work done before the paint is even poured into the gun. Also, the quality depends quite a bit on the cleanliness of the application (you don't want a lot of dust and bugs landing in your work!). I've seen several nice paint jobs come out of a home garage. If you use a basecoat/clearcoat system, you will find the base to be much more forgiving and easier to lay down flat and touch up afterward (before the clear). The clearcoat step can be cause for some frustration as it's easy for a 1st timer to hurry and end up with sags and/or runs. It's also critical not to 'dry spray' over the rest of the job. But, the clear can be wet sanded and polished to a crazy shine if done correctly. This is where you can really knock it out of the park and this step probably is the most labor intensive and takes a while to complete. I've done a little painting here and there but never a complete vehicle all at once but I'm considering painting my '56 when it comes time. I'll be painting it all in pieces and assembling after it's fully cured. Good luck with your project and have fun with it!

[19674x4]

what if you reversed the Checkerd flag from the one on the dent. put the tapering on the rear and wrap it onto the tailgate?

[robroy]

Wow Robroy, I seriously thought you had a one-of-a-kind idea there for your paint scheme. The dentside looks nice, but the drawing you made looks better to me . Although I do like the wavy affect in the dent.

Hey thanks! Yeah I like that wavy effect too, but I would be afraid to actually try it since it looks very complex, compared to the simple geometrical pattern in my design.

F100Builder, that's interesting advice on painting, thanks!

19674x4, that's also a good idea there. I think my preference is for the checkers to come first though, so the surprise is at the front of the truck instead of at the tail end. Kind of like flames being at the front, only checkers.

Thanks!
-Robroy

[brandon.k]

Painting is not rocket science. It does however take some patience and a little coordination. The absolute most important thing to remember is that a paint job is only as good as the prep work done before the paint is even poured into the gun. Also, the quality depends quite a bit on the cleanliness of the application (you don't want a lot of dust and bugs landing in your work!). I've seen several nice paint jobs come out of a home garage. If you use a basecoat/clearcoat system, you will find the base to be much more forgiving and easier to lay down flat and touch up afterward (before the clear). The clearcoat step can be cause for some frustration as it's easy for a 1st timer to hurry and end up with sags and/or runs. It's also critical not to 'dry spray' over the rest of the job. But, the clear can be wet sanded and polished to a crazy shine if done correctly. This is where you can really knock it out of the park and this step probably is the most labor intensive and takes a while to complete. I've done a little painting here and there but never a complete vehicle all at once but I'm considering painting my '56 when it comes time. I'll be painting it all in pieces and assembling after it's fully cured. Good luck with your project and have fun with it!

100% right on the nose.
Here's a crashed vette that me and a buddy fixed. It got away from the guy and centered on a tree. We painted and fixed it in the garage behind it.

This was a long weekend of side work. My Mustang, just removed the wing and filled the holes and pulled the side scoop and hood to repaint. Fresh buff job on the Hummer. The crashed vette.. Finishing up sand and buff on the flame job on the GTO.

Here mine finished after some paint and sand and buff. Bad cell phone pic..

[68muscletruck]

Don't checker the bump, leave it at the angle, its kind of reminiscent of like the 1970 Boss 302 Mustang stripes that come down off the hood and down along the side vs the 69's C Stripe...

[68muscletruck]

Doug F couldn't have said it any better... My dad is VP of a local sign company and can print almost anything out on a vinyl or do a die cut to put on anything... I've thought about having something like that done, but then I got into pinstriping and yes the human eye isn't necessarily perfect, but these are 40 year old pickup trucks we're talking about, they weren't perfect when they rolled off the line either! so now dad's sign company comes into play as I don't have stickers printed, instead I raid the scrap metal for sheets of aluminum to stripe on and sell to friends its a dying art, and its part of what makes each ride unique/unlike any other, it'll never be exactly the same unlike all the people that stick big NY Yankee's and RAM truck emblems on their back windows nough said

[Farmall]

Has anyone ever contacted the local Vo-tec school?
We have a couple places around here that I have been thinking of stopping at to see if they take on projects.
Wyotec has places across the country then there's county vocational centers.
Do they take on outside work?
It would be interesting to find out.

[Bumpside Collector]

Has anyone ever contacted the local Vo-tec school?
We have a couple places around here that I have been thinking of stopping at to see if they take on projects.
Wyotec has places across the country then there's county vocational centers.
Do they take on outside work?
It would be interesting to find out.

The one near here does. You supply the materials and they will supply the labor. It takes longer to get it done but it will be done right because the instructor is there watching all the time. It might be something you want to check out. I never have done truck body work but I have repaired a lot of dents in aircraft panels. You don't get to use body filler on airplanes! If you have enough patience and a little aptitude then you should be able to get it done. Remember metal work is a form of art. You need to be able to feel where the metal needs to go and how it wants to get there.

[DirtyJim]