67 swb 2x4 f350 4x4x 7.3 idi swap

[nuts-n-bolts]

Id completly box the frame where you made the cuts. Just my two cents.

THANX OLDREDFORD
your are the 2nd one to advise this to me ill give it some good hard thought
i thought i would be ok with the 3/8 plate and welding also 1/2 in grade bolts but maby i should add some more
thanx for the two cents

[nuts-n-bolts]

Nutsnbolts,

I too don't know how I missed the thread!
Very nice work, congrats on the fast build.
I too have a son that age, and know what the "gimme the keys" thing is all about.
What part of Central Florida?

Love the old stick prop on the side of the home.

citrus county on the gulf coast, the prop is from a air boat thay are a big thing in fl (i know i love em)
come on down we go fer a ride!!

[nuts-n-bolts]

Cool, I have thoughts about putting a diesel in mine sometimes but my wallet tells me different

it wasent to bad $
hard part was finding the doner truck (found it on craigs list)
good luck if you deside to do it ( i highly wreck-a-mend it)

[Fordnatic]

Any updates? Really like your project.

[averagef250]

Wherever you live I hope there's a state inspection and they keep your truck off the road. Your frame splice workmanship is below sub-par.

Your idea is cool, but I can't compliment your execution.

[1971ford]

Hey Dustin - you mind elaborating on the frame splice?
I too would of done it fairly differently from the start but I'm curious as to what you would do for a frame splice.

The way I would do it off the top of my head is cut the frame at an angle, not straight up/down, good welds with good penetration both sides, 1/4" plate on outside of frame, possibly plate on inside of frame and then box the frame in a good ways.

[Fordnatic]

Wherever you live I hope there's a state inspection and they keep your truck off the road. Your frame splice workmanship is below sub-par.

Your idea is cool, but I can't compliment your execution.

That's pretty harsh.

[FormerMarine1981]

I have seen it done a few different ways, cutting the frame straight is not recommended and is more likely to fail. I think the preferred method is called a Z Cut and it is the way I would cut and weld mine if I were to do it.

[averagef250]

That's pretty harsh.

How harsh would it be when workmanship like this causes a vehicle to break in half under a heavy load or hard braking on the freeway and kill you or a family member of yours? I've seen many late model factory truck frames crack, frames that were computer designed and built with modern materials in a highly controlled environment. You want to bet your life on Billy Bob's backyard frame splice holding up?

From the pictures of this frame splice job it looks pretty obvious that the weld prep and fit up is terrible, the fit up is 90% of the job. poor fit= poor weld quality = low strength. Beyond the fit up, the weld looks bad. You don't weld and bolt a frame splice like that, the bolts just induce stress into the frame close to the weld. When you weld any material, especially a structural member under stress you follow one rule pretty closely- The strongest welds are made between materials of the same thickness and makeup. Odds are not favorable that treadplate bolted on there is the same alloy as the frame.

When you cut a longbed frame down to a shortbed frame you're usually stuck making a straight vertical splice to clear the rear cab mounts/front bed mounts. When you do a frame splice like this you shouldn't be thinking about the backer, you should be focussed on making a weld joint that maintains the frame integrity 100% by itself, the backer is just there to make a full pen weld easier and as a bonus gaurantees the frame splice is stronger than the original frame when done right. The backer needs to put minimal stress into the frame, that's why they call it "fishplating" because a fish shaped backer introduces the least stress into the base materials. The start and stopping points of weld beads are where stress fractures begin. Bead starts are cold and bead ends can be craters. The welding itself needs to be done right, the rod/wire isn't that important, even 60 series materials are plenty strong for a frame. Late model frames, import frames are often not mild steel. These need proper care, preheating and proper 70 series rod/wire, slow cool in addition to standard post-weld peening. Knowing how to make good strong welds without undercutting the base material is key. You need nice welds for a strong joint. Post weld peening isn't required, but it sure doesn't hurt. I use a needle scaler while each weld is still hot.