My '72

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Bummer72
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My '72

Post by Bummer72 »

Hi All!

Today was the first full day I've owned my '72 F-100. I started by giving the interior a thorough cleaning...pulled the seat, vacuumed a ton of old pine needles, stink bugs and spiders, and then scrubbed a bunch of mildew. The dash vinyl is permanently spotted from the mildew. I don't know if someone left it sit with the window open (or leaking) or what, but it wasn't leaking yesterday when I drove in the rain, so hopefully that is behind me.

I pulled the instrument cluster, in hopes of discovering whether my dash gauge lens was dirty, or permanently discolored and hazy...it's hazy and yellowed, but some polishing compound made it significantly better than it was.

Driving home yesterday, I spelled lots of exhaust/engine fumes; well, it was windy and some times I had a tail wind. But I also discovered I didn't have the steering column firewall boot, nor did I have the firewall boot for the clutch rod. As a temporary solution, I redneck-engineered a grommet out of an old bicycle inner tube, a ziptie, and some rubber cement. Hey, it works!!!!

The seat belt on the drivers side didn't work at all (they aren't original...heck, they aren't even Ford), so I took it out and got it operating properly. Then I re-installed the center seat belt set.

Back to the dash... I realized through some reading that the Ranger XLT in '72 had ammeter and oil pressure gauges. However, my truck has idiot lights (ALT gauge and oil light). I've also got a 2-spoke steering wheel with two horn buttons and no wood grain. The rest of the dash has wood grain. Unfortunately, the plate that describes the body style as built is missing (probably lost when the cab was re-painted). Any guesses what exactly I have here? A Ranger with XLT badges; a standard F-100 with Ranger XLT chrome trimwork?

Tomorrow's work:
After some research tonight, I discovered some possible reasons why my dash cluster lights might be inoperable, so that will be tomorrows first project. Then, I'll go into the engine compartment and do some digging there. For starters, I know something is screwy when I see, sitting in front of the air filter, the ignition coil just sitting on top between the valve covers!!!! Was that standard or someone's field expedited solution? I also know I don't have a gasket or seal for the oil fill cap on the left valve cover, and the vent hose on the right side is kinked so much that it can't be passing any air (it is a simple piece of non-formed hose).

Then, I'm going to go DRIVE IT!!! And take some pics, too!!!
:woohoo:
Last edited by Bummer72 on Sat Nov 26, 2011 6:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
1972 F-100 Ranger XLT SWB
302, 3sp, 3.00
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basketcase0302
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Re: Bump Ownership: Day 1

Post by basketcase0302 »

Congrats on the XLT score and yeah it does seem that someone has done quite a bit of rigging there! :lol:
The coil should be mounted there on the intake on the 302 (probably before you even drive the truck so it doesn't short out)! You do have other mounting options you can do also.
Good job on the gasketing fix-and NPD (my favorite) has the steering column boot. I'd look a little closer before throwing a gasket on it though. Sound like someone might have had the column out for some reason or another? Do the turn signals work? It also sound like someone has switched the instrument cluster out? Maybe get the part number from the back and see if someone else here can help with that to ID the cluster? Did you look for the VIN tag on the door-is that the one that is missing? If so you can get if from the framerail:
http://www.fordification.com/tech/vin_find.htm

Did you stop over here yet?
http://www.fordification.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=1
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
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Bummer72
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Re: My '72

Post by Bummer72 »

Links to pics of VIN and ID plate:
http://thumb8.webshots.net/t/82/482/5/3 ... AQQ_th.jpg
http://thumb8.webshots.net/t/96/96/4/93 ... PFU_th.jpg

According to the plate, the distinguishing feature that should describe the body/trim version is kinda vague. It appears mine, being built in Feb'72, was a midyear change or feature that didn't make it into the books.

I do agree that the column has been pulled out at some point. The entire truck had significant body work done and was repainted. There's a pretty creative hack-job in the wiring harness under the dash, probably to accommodate the new instrument cluster. My ALT light works, but I never see the oil pressure light come on; I'll start with what's easy, and check the bulb first, then dig in deeper. Someday, maybe, I'll get the correct cluster and harness...not a priority.

Today, I think we'll try to figure out why my fuse box isn't getting power for the dash lights. I'm getting no power from the switch, to the dash light fuse socket. The headlights and courtesy lights work just fine. EDIT: The headlight switch was the culprit...lots of corrosion was keeping the rherostat from making contact, thus, no dash lights.

Then, I think I'll try to construct a headliner!!!!
1972 F-100 Ranger XLT SWB
302, 3sp, 3.00
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Re: My '72

Post by basshound71 »

Congrats on the score! I bought a 71 f100 custom at the beginning of November and am loving it. Gotta long ways to go but should have it drivable soon. Good luck and have fun
1971 Ford F100
2007 Chevy Avalanche
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Re: My '72

Post by Bummer72 »

Update:
I'm about 3 months into owning my bump. Shortly after buying it, I realized the clutch and transmission was going to need attention. The clutch needed to be replaced, an the 3-speed was leaking oil at the input and output shafts. The pinion seal was also leaking. So I did some online snooping, an found a transmission shop that had some good online reviews. I took it in, asking for them to replace the clutch and take a look at the seals, and bearings also if needed.

What ensued was a 3 week odyssey of "this is what happens when you buy a 40 year old truck" :oops: :cry: :eek:

Day after drop off, I get "the phone call". The good news is my transmission gears are in great shape, but it definitely needs new bearings, a seal kit, new syncros, and as a result of the bad bearings, a new counter-shaft. The rear end only needs a new seal and crush washer. The bad news is the engine...yes, that knocking noise I've been hearing is terminal, and I had to fix it or end up wishing I had.

Now, I'm not a mechanic. I can wrench around some new suspension bushings, change a water pump, change a timing belt, shocks, struts, oil changes, brake drums/rotors/pads/shoes, etc., which is small change to some of you more experienced folks, but a major money saver to me. However, when it comes to the mysteries that happen deep inside the large block of hot iron, I'm oblivious; when someone tells me I don't have much fun left in my truck because the engine is dying, I err on the side of caution. I opted for a re-manufactured 302 as a direct replacement for the original. I also found the new 3.00 rear end gears I wanted, because I will be using this truck for 90% highway driving.

Now, as you all probably know, and as I just recently learned, you don't just start taking out 40 year old parts and putting them back together without some "unforeseen" things popping up. First thing to come up was that as they were working on the rear, they saw a brake line that was leaking: that got fixed, of course. Then, after the engine finally arrived, and they started moving parts over to the new long block, the found that my valve covers were damaged from someone overtightening the bolts, causing cracks. (Okay, I snugged them down because it was leaking, but I hope I'm not stupid enough to break things...judging from some other stuff I found, I'm gonna blame the previous owner!!!). Next, as they were swapping out the gears, they found my rear axle bearings were toasted; since they had the axles out anyways, it was logical to r/r them even if they weren't. And lastly, when they hooked up the fuel pump, it didn't pump any fuel...I'm assuming that the uninstallation was the last straw for the 40 year old part...good thing new ones are cheap and available!

So, after 17 days and more cash than I wished to part with, I have a solid drive train from engine to rear axle. Fortunately, I had a solid frame and body to start with, because the prior owner had the body work done first. This is antithesis to how I would have done it, (I'm a form follows function type of guy), but I'm grateful it was done, because it probably wouldn't have made sense to throw money into a drivetrain overhaul, then put it in a rough body.

When the rain lets up, I'll take a few more pics, but so far I'm really happy with the attention they paid to details...right down to the engine paint!

Thanks for listening!!!
-Doug
Image
New 302...now I gotta clean up that engine bay!
1972 F-100 Ranger XLT SWB
302, 3sp, 3.00
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Re: My '72

Post by Fordnatic »

That looks really good!
70F100: 410 Merc with tri-power, close ratio toploader, 4.56 detroit locker 9"
68F100 4x4: 390, 4 spd/NP 205, Rancho 4" urethane susp, 35x12.50 All Terrain T/A's
55F100
01F150 Daily Driver: TP tunes, AF1 intake, elec fans, Magnaflow exh, underdrive pulleys, Centerlines
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Re: My '72

Post by crazyhorse »

Mr Bummer, that looks good,
congratulations.
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