Chronicles of Project Hank

[elgemcdlf]

Check your steering before you get too deep into it. I see you have clearance at center but the tie rod ends have a tendancy to rise and drop depending on which way you are steering. Kinda a shame the spindles are done. Could you have used 250 spindles or are you set on 350 spindles? My thought on modifying yours was the same. Machine shop. They will either have to weld them shut and drill anew or if modifying the original hole you will have to find tie rod ends that will work with the larger taper. Perhaps F600 but I would bet the threaded end would also be larger.

Back to steering I believe it is when the tie rod end gets closer to the radius arm it rises. Having a pair of radius arms built could also be an option although not an inexpensive one.

[tubolove]

It looks like I will be ok on the steering because the tie rod boot is the same height as the angle iron I used in the pic so the actual rod would run through about where the bottom edge of the angle iron goes through and lock to lock is plenty of room!

The plan is to use dually front wheels up front as well as the F-350 front discs and so I needed this spindle so I could use the dually hub. I also prefer to attach my tie rods directly to the spindle if possible and the F-350 steering arms will allow that if I can just figure out this little issue.

Check your steering before you get too deep into it. I see you have clearance at center but the tie rod ends have a tendancy to rise and drop depending on which way you are steering. Kinda a shame the spindles are done. Could you have used 250 spindles or are you set on 350 spindles? My thought on modifying yours was the same. Machine shop. They will either have to weld them shut and drill anew or if modifying the original hole you will have to find tie rod ends that will work with the larger taper. Perhaps F600 but I would bet the threaded end would also be larger.

Back to steering I believe it is when the tie rod end gets closer to the radius arm it rises. Having a pair of radius arms built could also be an option although not an inexpensive one.

[sands]

What happen to the blue parts and the front end work?

[tubolove]

Well right now we are in "hurry up and wait" mode. I still haven't got the first batch from the powdercoater who keeps telling me next week. Then after 6 weeks he tells me he needed approval to phosphate dip the parts first since there may have been oils that penetrated the steel. I dunno. The second batch (i.e. The blue batch) is not going until I see how the first batch turned out.

The spindles are back from the automotive machine shop and were hot tanked and new bronze bushings were pressed in and honed to fit the new king pins. Then they were taken to the general machine shop to have an insert machined to allow the tie rod ends to attach from the bottom instead of the top. Unfortunately it took me a good week to track down OEM quality MOOG tie rod ends and drag links and another week to arrive BUT the inserts are being made as we speak.

Finally I have researched and measured and settled on Slam Specialties RE-8 airbags and have begun to engineer how they will fit into the OEM spring pockets and attach to the I beams as well. They are 2.5" wider in diameter than the OEM coil spring but I think we will have just enough room.

And lastly I have removed the OEM spring perches and shock brackets from the rear axle in anticipation of adding the new four link brackets. I am really torn between triagulated and parallel four link but I am almost settled on triangulated.

Pics to follow soon.

Later

[tubolove]

Spindles back from machine shop:

metal kingping bushings installed

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Here is the new metal sleeve that has been pressed in and machined to allow the tie rod ends to bolt through the bottom instead of the top. I was able to eliminate the need to notch the radius arms or use tie rod end relocators by using the F350 spindle which has the arm that drops down (instead of up like the F100 and F250) and moving the tie rod ends from above the arm (F350 tie rod ends) to below it (F250 tie rod ends).

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[tubolove]

All new MOOG steering parts for 1970 F-250. That long tie rod end was a booger to find but it is here!!

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[tubolove]

All new Timken bearings, races, and seals and Wagner front rotors, calipers, pads, and hardware for 1978 F-350 are here!!

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Check out the rotors...bet you can't guess which one was made in the USA!?!?! I bought Wagner because they told me that they were made in the USA. Guess that depends what decade we are talking about.

Also If anyone has a lead on bearing caps that do not have "CHINA" stamped on the face of them I would gladly pay extra for them. The Dorman ones are the only ones I can find under various store brand names and the all say "CHINA" on the face big as day and I refuse to use them. I would rather put my dingy dinged up OEM ones back on there.

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[tubolove]

Got the first batch back from the powder coater. I will be looking elsewhwere for other parts. The finish is nice, I will give them that, but they took foreeeeeever, the hubs were supposed to be flat black, and the areas not to be powder coated were poorly taped off. I will probably have to spend about two hours getting the hubs and caliper mounting brackets up to par. On the bright side, the dust sheilds which required complete powdercoating coverage are beautiful.

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[tubolove]

Been working with my son on the rear axle to get it ready for the four link brackets. We have settled on the triangualted four link with Firestone F2107 airbags for load capacity. Here he is removing the spring perches:

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Before and after:

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[sands]

looks good keep the info and pics comming

[tubolove]

After a million measurements, the bed of Hank was removed and sold. Here is a pic from last night on the way home. The decision was made to sell the bed of Hank for a couple of reasons. First, the OEM toolbox on the side is really cool but takes away from the look I am going for. Secondly, I don't like the bedcaps on the 70 to 72 model because the body lines are interrupted by the government mandated reflector/marker light integrated there. Third, I don't have the room to store it and I need to get at the frame to narrow and c-notch it, and install the four link. Finally, because I am relocationg the axle rearwards, I am going to have to chop and section two beds together and the tool box is right in the way. I will not be using this model year tailgate either so it was sold as well.

Looks cool with no bed!

[XABN82]

All new Timken bearings, races, and seals and Wagner front rotors, calipers, pads, and hardware for 1978 F-350 are here!!

fdgfdgg.JPG

Check out the rotors...bet you can't guess which one was made in the USA!?!?! I bought Wagner because they told me that they were made in the USA. Guess that depends what decade we are talking about.

Also If anyone has a lead on bearing caps that do not have "CHINA" stamped on the face of them I would gladly pay extra for them. The Dorman ones are the only ones I can find under various store brand names and the all say "CHINA" on the face big as day and I refuse to use them. I would rather put my dingy dinged up OEM ones back on there.

fghgfvhgbj.JPG

I really like where you stand on this "Made in China" junk. I try my best not to buy that stuff. When I buy parts I always aks the origin, if "Made in China" I aks if there is a product made in the USA,Germany, or most any other place than China. My wife bought me a worm drive saw for my birthday. I told her I wanted a Bosch made in the US. Girl had to hunt all over Chattanooga to find one. Keep up the good work.

[tubolove]

Thanks man. I always try. Hey just FYI the Bosch plant is right up the road from me and my business services tons of it's employees that they employ right here in the USA.

[XABN82]

Thanks man. I always try. Hey just FYI the Bosch plant is right up the road from me and my business services tons of it's employees that they employ right here in the USA.

Thats cool, glad I helped some American workers.

[XABN82]

Tubolove, where are you located?