Project 460 into a 72 F-250

[Ranchero50]

Glad to hear it's coming along well. I always plan on two steps forward, one back and haven't been dissapointed yet.

Be sure to have a ice cold Mt. Dew or Beer in celebration of making it to a milestone on your build.

Jamie

[mybros71]

I think its cool you thought about starting it in gear. I would have been so excited, that wouln't have even crossed my mind. I,d be fixing the back wall of my garage this morning.

Looking good!

Tony

[Kurt Combs]

Took the truck for a test drive today. The only problem I had was a leaky upper radiator hose and a fitting at the steering gear box. I came home and tightened the radiator hose and that took care of it, the steering box connection will have to wait until everything is cold. Motor is very responsive and I have no problem accelerating going onto the freeway or at 70 MPH. The power steering is much easier (more powerful) and the play seems to be gone out of the steering. I changed the steering gear box which helped with the slop in the steering and there was a crimp in the power steering hose with the old 360 that must have been having an negative impact on how powerful the steering was. I did end up with the steering wheel being slightly turned when the vehicle isn't, but I think I can just remove the steering wheel and put it back on so it is aligned correctly. I also moved the ball on a stud that the throttle linkage attaches to so I have more pedal travel, but still get wide open butterflies at full throttle.

I must say, that engine looks like it belongs in my 72 and I think it is a much needed improvement. I also feel that if the truck didn't weigh over 5,000 lbs it would be a fast vehicle. I cant' wait to take it on a long drive and see how it does on the hills. Here is a picture of the engine:

[Kurt Combs]

Below are the drive shafts out of my 72 F-250 and those out of the 77 F-150 donor for this project.



The dark shafts in the middle of the picture are from the 72 F-250

drive shafts 72 and 77.jpg

Here is a shot of the slip yokes

slip yokes.jpg

The shafts from the 72 are narrower and the u-joints are smaller, if you mix and match it would have to be in the slip joint.

[elgemcdlf]

You can buy U-Joints that are different sizes on the different sides. This is what I did when I put the IRS in my truck. The driveshaft had the small U-Joint and the flange for the 8.8 took the large one. I am under the understanding there are basically only 2 main U-Joints used by Ford.

In case you are unaware from '72 up the cam is retarded either 4 or 8 degrees. Seems to be conflicting information on the amount. If you swap out the timing set for '69-'71 it will set the cam at 0. This will give you more power out of your 460. I was going to build a blown 460 about 20 yrs ago and it seems like I remember reading a recommendation to advance the cam 2 degrees. You will have to watch your timing if you go any farther than that. I will be happy just to have mine at 0

[Kurt Combs]

I bought new spark plug wires today at O'Reilly's and attempted to install them this evening. But they are shorter than the originals and won't fit if I use the original wire supports that attach to the valve covers. The box the wires came in claim they are OEM, but I think it means as long as you don't want them as long as originals.... tomorrow they go back to the parts store and I will probably just run the original which seem to be fine. I also have an appointment at the muffler shop tomorrow for a new tail pipe and to get the exhaust leak at the manifold fixed. There goes any money left in my project account.....

[BobbyFord]

I always buy aftermarket unfinished wires that require tailoring.

[Kurt Combs]

Tailpipe is installed, original exhaust pipes and muffler were retained from the donor truck. $150 and and I was all set, that included replacing the first foot of exhaust pipe on the driver's side, which I don't think I needed. There seems to be a small plug at the front of the head that is allowing exhaust gas to escape. I didn't know there was such a thing in an exhaust port on a head, so I didn't look for it. Muffler shop pointed it out after changing the exhaust pipe flange. Couldn't find the correct size plug at O'Reilly's so I stuck a screw in it with a homemade gasket and hope it lasts until I can get the correct plug. It looks like a freeze plug but about 11/16 in diameter. Bummer is, if I would have know about these plugs I would have changed all of them before I installed the engine. Current issue is getting the choke and idle adjusted. I also seem to have the same hot start problem I had with the 360, but there is nothing left of the old engine that could be causing that, so I have a new problem. It also seems like the electric choke resets itself pretty fast even though the engine is still warm. I am beginning to dislike the Holly carb, but don't want to part with the coin for an Edelbrock. I'll drive it to work tomorrow and see how it runs.

[mybros71]

Have you tried adjusting the choke? I found that with the electric choke I had to observe it and adjust it at all foreseeable engine temperatures, beginning with the coldest morning. I would adjust it to the leanest position which would still close the plate AND engage the high idle. Then I worked from there. Most times this adjustment was all I needed. The hot start issue might be an idle adjustment problem. I once had my mixture so screwed up I had to crank the idle up to get it to idle. Then when I tried to start it hot, the throttle valve was open too far and the carbon would not draw fuel.

Tony

[elgemcdlf]

What type of hot start problem do you have? If it doesn't want to crank it is timing.

[Kurt Combs]

Cranks for awhile before it starts. I just started it after sitting for three hours and it acted like it was flooded, ran really rough for awhile and then smoothed out. Beginning to think the carb needs a rebuild. I will try adjusting the choke again and then the idle when hot. I changed the starter solenoid last night thinking that might be contributing to the problem by not sending 12 volts to the coil when starting. Disassemble it and it was not the problem. The old solenoid was probably better than the new replacement.

[elgemcdlf]

Assuming you have the timing correct replace the coil. It is inexpensive and could very well be the culprit. I had a problem that sounds like what you describe & it was the coil. Carry a sandwich bag full of ice. When it doesn't want to start hot pack the module with the bag of ice. Let the module cool down a bit & see if it starts. If so module time.

[Kurt Combs]

I'm assuming I don't need a phenolic spacer on an Edelbrock Performer manifold running a Holly carb?

[danieltroberts]

I'm running the opposite setup. A Edelbrock performer with an old Holley aluminum intake on my FE and I used the 1 inch spacer (from Summit) to assist with keeping the gas in the carb cooler. It works well and I'd recommend the spacer as an optional add-on.

I've enjoyed watching your progress and look forward to seeing you at completion.

[Kurt Combs]

Rebuilt my first Holly carb today. Not sure if it is better or not, only time will tell. I didn't see anything that I could point to and say that is was bad or leaking, but I replaced the valves at the floats, accelerator pump, numerous gaskets, and the power valve. Also set the choke as lean as I thought I could get away with. blew everything out with carb cleaner and it seems to run fine. I may still have a problem because I don't get much reaction to turning the idle screws. I'll get to drive it more next week and see how it starts when it is hot.

Good thing is the project is nearing completion if it starts okay when hot. Next project is selling, or parting out, the 77 donor truck and adding a fuel gauge to my auxiliary gas tank.