1969 Ranger - Project Glory Days!

[sargentrs]

Oh no, no, no. Don't let me hinder your progress. I'm just sitting back and enjoying the show! Can't wait for the next episode.

[Nickabocker]

hey good work on all of this. I've been away for a bit but im starting to get back in to my old 67 looks like a great project here

nick

[tylerb43]

Thanks Randy and Nick, I'm struggling to get time on the truck, customer cars keep getting in the way! Oh well, they do pay for more truck parts, so that's okay I guess!

[tylerb43]

I'm reinstalling the original mirrors, most call them "west coast style". The thing I don't like about them, is how the bottom mirror "foot" bolts to the door. They used those weird crimp nuts that leave a rim on the outside. And besides that, I had a bolt twisted off in one, and another just spun freely and had hairline cracks around it in the door panel. So this is my fix. I wasn't sure, but it came out great and I thought I'd show it to you guys. -Ya know I only show you the ideas that work out...

Here's the before.. I hit those rims with a flap disc and the nuts fall to the inside. 10 seconds to remove.



Then I made a simple little bracket to replace the nuts.



Screws hold the bracket in place while I spot weld it. I sprayed everything with weld-thru first.



Smooth the exterior with a little glaze filler...



And then epoxy primer, better than new! The rubber gasket will go between the mirror foot and the painted surface, and now they will both sit flush.



Small steps forward my friends!

[sargentrs]

That's awesome, Tyler! You should get a bumpside patent on that one.

[FormerMarine1981]

That's an awesome fix! That always bothered me too on mine.

[67nukeford]

Nice job, man! You just solved a problem that I've been wondering what to do about!!

[Manny]

Lot of good info in this thread, and great ideas. Like how the smoothed door mirror mounts look. Overall just looking great, and loved the door corner repair. Not something i need for the 67', but i just bought a 73' that i will need it on. Enjoying the thread so keep it up!!!

[tylerb43]

Thanks guys!! I appreciate the kind words!

[tylerb43]

Another area I saw an opportunity, was the power steering cooler. Mine was all bent to crap first of all. I noticed on dent sides, they relocated the cooler to the inboard side of the LH frame rail, just aft of the radiator support. Presumably, this was to get more air flow around the cooler. (probably).

Anyway, I decided to follow this lead, and found this little fluid cooler from Summit (Derale 13212). I made some "hat bracket" feet for it, welded nuts to them and tacked them to the cooler, and then mounting the assembly to the frame rail. It comes with a length of hose and clamps, so I just have to hook them up, and I'm good to go!





Drilled holes in frame and cooler mounted.



Sorry about the dark picture, but you can see where it's located.

[Manny]

That is the neat deal there. The 73' i am bringing home this weekend has the big cooler on the frame. That is a clean install on that little cooler there. Should keep the fluid nice and cold.

[hivewax]

Subscribing!

[tylerb43]

Hey guys, just wanted to update this and let you know what I'm working on now. Well, I haven't spent much time in the shop lately, my 8-week old little boy sure demands a lot of time!! But hopefully this week I'll get to make some progress.

Anyway, I started piecing together the exhaust system. I decided to use an X-pipe and 40 series flowmasters, and 2.25" dia pipe. That's what I decided to use after some research and searches on here, so please refrain from calling my choices stupid unless you have a valid reason - which I will listen to....probably. I've never done an exhaust system before, I've always just dropped off at the local muffler shop and wrote a check, but I looking back at the tasks I've tackled, and watching the guys on Trucks do it on project Rolling Thunder, I thought "what the hell, I'll give it a shot".

The "X" is centered on the drive-shaft, which makes it look kinda funny, but I wanted to keep maximum clearance to the shaft and u-joint for thermal reasons.



The X section is removable for U-joint or transmission maintenance , with stainless butt clamps connecting it to the rear section of the system, and stainless muffler clamps connecting it to the down pipes off the manifolds. (drop the rear and slide back - X-section comes out)

[sargentrs]

Well done, Tyler! Now I know how to do mine, once I get my engine that is. Keep up the good work and thanks!

[FormerMarine1981]

Nice, I like the X Pipe. Hope to put one of those on my truck one day.