towing 68 f250 4 wheels down with a 71 f100

[68_250]

So here is the problem. I have to get my 68 f250 home. It runs but no brakes at the moment. My tow vehicle is a 71 f100 302 T18 tranny. I am planning on towing 4 wheels on the ground with a tow bar. I have to go over one 6% grade and the rest is little urs and downs here and there. Total distance 98 miles. Is it doable?
If this sounds out of the question let me know.
Thanks

[flyboy2610]

I think if you take it easy it should be OK. If the '68 has an auto trans, disconnect the driveshaft. Otherwise the gears will turn, but the pump won't be on as it's driven by the engine. If it's a manual, it should be fine.
Just take it slow.

[averagef250]

For 98 miles drop the driveshaft. The t-case gears don't turn in nuetral; It'll come apart after awhile.

I towbarred a 75 highboy with a ton of crap in the bed behind a 70 F-100 220 miles or so. It did fine, but I didn't try anything stupid. If you have a 6% downgrade to worry about I'd recommend cresting the top at about 30 MPH and keeping it there for the ride down.

[TNIceWolf]

To add to the above. Something I learned as a Hotel8 ( Recovery Specialist ) in the Army using towbars. ALWAYS use a slower speed. There are a good many physical forces acting on the attatching points and the vehicles at any given second. Anticipating a known route is a bonus. Plan it out and above all minimize any risk. If at any point something feels loose or out of place....pull over as soon as possible and check it out. Pulling it probably isnt going to be much of a hassle. Just gotta anticipate those forces when slowing and turning.

[Kurt Combs]

Just remember, it won't stop on a dime. In fact, it won't stop well at all. Give yourself lots of room between you and the guy in front of you. Freeways won't be much of a problem unless there is an unexpected traffic stop, but in town could be an issue. It should give you some stories to tell your buddies in the future!

[68_250]

Thanks for the input guys. All I am worried about is going up the 6% grade. It is going to be a dog. The grade is about 3 miles long. The 302 is going to be screaming.
I have looked on the site and could not find what I was looking for. I have never had to drop the drive line. How do I go about that. Is it just some retaining rings at the joint. I have been told it is easy but I have never had to do it.
Also, the tow bar I have has brakets for mounting to the frame of car being towed. I figured i would pull the front bumper and mout it that way. Is this the correct way?

Thanks

[abyars111]

Removing the drive shaft is a cinch. The rear u-joint is attached to the pinion via two u-bolts. Just remove those, push the shaft forward to clear the rear pinion yoke, then slide the shaft out of the tranny. The front yoke remains attached to the drive shaft.

[averagef250]

Removing the drive shaft is a cinch. The rear u-joint is attached to the pinion via two u-bolts. Just remove those, push the shaft forward to clear the rear pinion yoke, then slide the shaft out of the tranny. The front yoke remains attached to the drive shaft.

4x4 shafts don't slide out of the transmission. They have u-bolts holding the front in as well. That said, you don't need to pull the front out. Just disconnect the rear and tie it up out of the way.

Good luck with the 302. I know there are those here that love those engines in trucks, but I've never been so disgusted by an engine as having a 302 in a pickup.

[Ranchero50]

Try to connect with your tow bar sitting as level as you can and try to time the hardest part of your trip at the best time wether it be the 6% grade in the cool morning or evening or running through town in rush hour traffic.

Good luck and

[DuckRyder]

A few more details might be useful:

F250 4x4?

F100 gear ratio?

I would try to figure out what the torque peak of the 302 is and try to keep it close, I think going up the 6% grade and stopping it are going to be your concerns...

For what it is worth, my F100 weighs 4250 lbs according to the scale at the C&D landfill, I would say even a 2wd f-250 is going to be a good deal heavier (500lbs), so I guess the question is can the F100 tow 5000-5500 lbs on an unbraked trailer? (My 72 information says trailers over 2000lbs require brakes)

I think I'd fix the brakes personally... If I was going to tow it I'm not sure you wouldn't be safer to put it on a good car trailer with brakes...

[Ranchero50]

A few more details might be useful:

F250 4x4?

F100 gear ratio?

I would try to figure out what the torque peak of the 302 is and try to keep it close, I think going up the 6% grade and stopping it are going to be your concerns...

For what it is worth, my F100 weighs 4250 lbs according to the scale at the C&D landfill, I would say even a 2wd f-250 is going to be a good deal heavier (500lbs), so I guess the question is can the F100 tow 5000-5500 lbs on an unbraked trailer? (My 72 information says trailers over 2000lbs require brakes)

I think I'd fix the brakes personally... If I was going to tow it I'm not sure you wouldn't be safer to put it on a good car trailer with brakes...

This is pretty good advice. I'd also call around for tow truck prices and even check out AAA. U haul will rent trailers for compact cars but won't if you tell them it's for a full sized truck. Some times the cheapest way home is the most expensive.

Jamie

[Racer Z]

Some good advice has been spoken. Let me add to that.

Use your gears to induce engine braking while going down the grade. If you ride the brake, your brakes will overheat and then you will loose your brakes. This will be a heat related problem and your brakes will return when they cool off. Doing a controlled 30 down the hill without needing to touch your brakes is better than an out of control 60-70-80-holy fudge-pop batman.

[Racer Z]

This is pretty good advice. I'd also call around for tow truck prices and even check out AAA. U haul will rent trailers for compact cars but won't if you tell them it's for a full sized truck. Some times the cheapest way home is the most expensive.

Jamie

Yes. The auto-carrier will have trailer brakes. The two I just rented had a surge brake so that means you don't need to do anything for the trailer brakes to work. U-Haul rents theirs for $60 a day. This is a good insurance policy towards minimizing the chances of brake problems.

Actually, the law here in California says that any trailer over 2500 pounds MUST have brakes. The truck you're towing is over 2500 pounds.

[Kurt Combs]

I'd be amazed if U-Haul would rent you a trailer to pull that much weight, even with surge brakes. Now if you want to rent one of their vans to pull it I am sure they would be okay with that. Remember, you are going to need over twice as far to stop and if you lock up the brakes the towed vehicle will be pushing you every way but straight. Think jack-knifed. BTW, the 6% grade isn't a big problem, just put it in first and I would think you will get up it, going down the other side (especially if you have drum brakes on the front) is going to be really scary if it starts to pickup speed. I'd fix the brakes on the F250 and drive it home.

[wndsofchng06]

Uhaul will definitely NOT rent a trailer for that. They have gotten very particular (for safety sake of course). They won't let me pull any of their car hauling options with my 72 f100.... sucks! Good luck!