Which 2 barrel carb and camshaft should I buy?
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Which 2 barrel carb and camshaft should I buy?
I have a 352 FE in my 1967 F100 truck. During the rebuilding, the displacement will be increased to 390. This will be the only major change at this engine. I would like to keep the original 2bbl intake manifold. Now I am searching for a good new carburetor as well as a new camshaft. The engine should have good low and mid range torque. Has anybody a good hint regarding a suitable carburetor/camshaft combination?
- flyboy2610
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re: Which 2 barrel carb and camshaft should I buy?
I don't know about the cam, but my 390 has an Autolite 2100 as original equipment.
- DuckRyder
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re: Which 2 barrel carb and camshaft should I buy?
The Crane 343901 (343902 for a kit) is a good mild cam. The 343941 (343942) is slightly hotter.
Holley offers 3 street 2bbls 1 350 cfm and 2 versions of the 500cfm.
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/P ... -7448.html
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/P ... 4412C.html
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/P ... 4412s.html
All are available from summitracing.com but not sure how international shipping works.
Holley offers 3 street 2bbls 1 350 cfm and 2 versions of the 500cfm.
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/P ... -7448.html
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/P ... 4412C.html
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/P ... 4412s.html
All are available from summitracing.com but not sure how international shipping works.
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
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re: Which 2 barrel carb and camshaft should I buy?
Will you be punching the motor out .050" and using a 390 crank to obtain the 390 c.i.? I would recommend tracking down a 4-barrel manifold in a junk yard and looking into a refurbished Edelbrock 600 cfm carb. This combo can be had for a relatively decent price and will allow you to have superior milage when you keep your foot out of it and superior power when you feel that itch.
-Patrick
-Patrick
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re: Which 2 barrel carb and camshaft should I buy?
If you absolutely want to go to all the trouble of rebuilding engine and actually not get rid of the cast iron yacht anchor - I mean intake - then by all means use the Holley 500 cfm carb. But getting an aluminum intake and a 4bbl carb is such a sweet thing to do it's hard for many to understand why you wouldn't want to do it.
Trevor Rush
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re: Which 2 barrel carb and camshaft should I buy?
CACWBY,
In Switzerland there is a law especially for cars and trucks which are older than 30 years. If the vehicle has its original classic condition, we only need to let check it every six years at the technical inspection agency. If there are a lot of visible other than original parts on the car like chromed headers, wide tires and so on, we do not receive this "classic car" label. In this case the checking period is two years, like other cars which are older than five years. Moreover the insurance rates are lower for cars with "classic car" labels.
Regarding the 2bbl intake, the final decision hasn't made as yet. Maybe I could hide a 4bbl carburetor with a classic not a shiny finish below the original air cleaner. For the intake I could use for instance an Edelbrock Performer and grind away the brand name.
If all of this works, I will offer the 2bbl intake to my brother. He owns a sail boat and maybe he could need a good quality US-cast anchor.
Thanks a lot for all of your hints, Roman
In Switzerland there is a law especially for cars and trucks which are older than 30 years. If the vehicle has its original classic condition, we only need to let check it every six years at the technical inspection agency. If there are a lot of visible other than original parts on the car like chromed headers, wide tires and so on, we do not receive this "classic car" label. In this case the checking period is two years, like other cars which are older than five years. Moreover the insurance rates are lower for cars with "classic car" labels.
Regarding the 2bbl intake, the final decision hasn't made as yet. Maybe I could hide a 4bbl carburetor with a classic not a shiny finish below the original air cleaner. For the intake I could use for instance an Edelbrock Performer and grind away the brand name.
If all of this works, I will offer the 2bbl intake to my brother. He owns a sail boat and maybe he could need a good quality US-cast anchor.
Thanks a lot for all of your hints, Roman
- jor
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re: Which 2 barrel carb and camshaft should I buy?
Good retort, Roman! Let us know what you decide and post some photos.If all of this works, I will offer the 2bbl intake to my brother. He owns a sail boat and maybe he could need a good quality US-cast anchor.
jor
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re: Which 2 barrel carb and camshaft should I buy?
Had no idea - but have heard of other countries that practically make having a modified vehicle illegal. But yet it seems like every issue of our Street Rod mags carry some euro street rodd machinery-are they just driving them until they get busted?
Good luck, my hats off to people pursuing the hobby on American Iron in other countries, even with internet and UPS it's got to be difficult.
Good luck, my hats off to people pursuing the hobby on American Iron in other countries, even with internet and UPS it's got to be difficult.
Trevor Rush
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re: Which 2 barrel carb and camshaft should I buy?
theres been several nice looking .528 lift cams on ebay lately for 65.00 for 390/428. there all by the same guy so i think he sells them new. might still be some there.
i ran that cam with a holley 800CFM carb, stock valves, mild port/polish, stock intake, small tube headers, small tube dual exaust thru my computer dyno program and got 360 projected HP.
not bad for 400.00 and a weekend of work
i ran that cam with a holley 800CFM carb, stock valves, mild port/polish, stock intake, small tube headers, small tube dual exaust thru my computer dyno program and got 360 projected HP.
not bad for 400.00 and a weekend of work
JESUS LOVES YOU! everyone else thinks your a jackass!
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re: Which 2 barrel carb and camshaft should I buy?
Just for heck of it you should run that same program but with a 650 cfm & 700 cfm carb and see what it says. You might get more HP with a smaller carb.
Does your program ask you for VE % (Volume Effeciency, engines ability to truly burn all and exhaust all the fuel & spent gases) - to actually get 100% is rare but most of us assume 90-100% because of our egos.
IMO You'd have to have a wilder cam and bigger valves, (possibly a roller set up), a really good exhaust system, and at least 100% VE to make good use of a 800cfm carb on a 390 FE. I had a 750cfm on mine once for a couple days and it only worked at WOT.
Which I guess is what the program is actually figuring, so hey maybe this post is total waste of time (another acrynom for WOT) and yeah bigger might be better for total HP # on a program, but not always very streetable.
Does your program ask you for VE % (Volume Effeciency, engines ability to truly burn all and exhaust all the fuel & spent gases) - to actually get 100% is rare but most of us assume 90-100% because of our egos.
IMO You'd have to have a wilder cam and bigger valves, (possibly a roller set up), a really good exhaust system, and at least 100% VE to make good use of a 800cfm carb on a 390 FE. I had a 750cfm on mine once for a couple days and it only worked at WOT.
Which I guess is what the program is actually figuring, so hey maybe this post is total waste of time (another acrynom for WOT) and yeah bigger might be better for total HP # on a program, but not always very streetable.
Trevor Rush
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re: Which 2 barrel carb and camshaft should I buy?
i used the 800 cfm carb against a 600 and saw very little difference. maybe 5HP. i used the 800 cfm carb for final calculations because thats what size carb i got a good deal on hehe
JESUS LOVES YOU! everyone else thinks your a jackass!