oil question

Engine, ignition, fuel, cooling, exhaust

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bumpandsweptline
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oil question

Post by bumpandsweptline »

My 70 f100 has a 4.9 and motor is getting very weak :wel: I have almost no oil pressure below low side when hot ....I am already running 15w40 rotela ...........a friend told me I can run straight Lucas in engine ......this is my daily driver hundreds of miles almost every weekend ...I need motor to last until after winter .........
Has anyone ever ran straight Lucas ??
Motor is not rattling but does smoke on high end I live in west Texas and its 60 miles to Walmart exc the reason for high miles :D
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DuckRyder
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Re: oil question

Post by DuckRyder »

I've never run straight lucas, it doesn't sound like a good idea to me...

Not sure how cold it gets in West Texas (I've been pretty cold in TX) but Valvoline makes a straight 50 weight VR1 racing that might help if it doesn't get too cold.

In the end no oil will correct worn rings and bearings, and Rotella is a pretty good oil, If it isn't rattling and it doesn't smoke horribly I'd probably just keep doing what you are doing to get me through winter....
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)

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bumpandsweptline
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Re: oil question

Post by bumpandsweptline »

That was my thoughts straight Lucas would be to thick...as far as how cold I am not sure I figure at least 20's I haven't lived here long enough to know ...
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sargentrs
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Re: oil question

Post by sargentrs »

DuckRyder wrote:Not sure how cold it gets in West Texas (I've been pretty cold in TX) but Valvoline makes a straight 50 weight VR1 racing that might help if it doesn't get too cold.
:yt: I ran VR1 in my truck for years after the oil pressure started getting too low for comfort. Or at least that's what the gauge read. She always seemed to run on the low side according to the gauge but got to where the needle would barely be off bottom. Started running the VR1 and the gauge would rise up to almost a 1/4 way. She really liked it, it ran quieter and the leaks slowed down a bit too. :lol: Don't change oil and dump 5 quarts in her all at once. Start by putting one quart in next time you need to and let her run with it for awhile. Then drain some out and put 2 quarts in, then 3, then 4, spread out while you drive her. Once she's mostly 50wt, then change it. If she's got some wear on her, she might not be able to handle the sudden change in thickness all at once.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
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tidybowl
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Re: oil question

Post by tidybowl »

There are several oil additives on the market that have teflon in them. They are designed to correct just your problem. ProLong and TriboTech are just two of them. They really do work as advertised. The other option is Barr's Engine Restore with copper. There is an small chance your oil pump is going bad so none of these products will make much of a change but at least the ProLong will keep the motor from seizing.
1970 F-250 Camper Special 390/C-4 auto 289K miles, 1992 Explorer 4x4 229K Miles, 2000F-150 4.2L V6 154K miles
motzingg
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Re: oil question

Post by motzingg »

i wouldn't trust the gauge to tell me if i need to make changes like that. get a good analog gauge with actual psi increments and check to make sure you have a problem before doing anything else.

pumps do go out but its usually the bearings that have loosened up enough to allow more oil to go blowing out of them.

also, avoiding wal-mart may help the mileage problem.
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