
Hood Latch
Moderator: FORDification
- Ranchero50
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Hood Latch
Must have been designed by a short guy... 

'70 F-350 CS Cummins 6BT 10klb truck 64k mile Bahama Blue
Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.
Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.
- Mancar1
- 100% FORDified!
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- Joined: Thu Jun 10, 2010 8:13 am
- Location: USS Gramps Garage (DD-727) Tehama County, Northern Ca.
Re: Hood Latch
A real short guy
I am only 5' 8 1/2" and I have fell victim to the evil Ford Bump hood latch. Maybe that is the real reason these trucks r called BUMPS
No that can not be it, my 73 nailed me also.
And it was a Dent.... 


No that can not be it, my 73 nailed me also.


May your sails stay full, and your knots not slip. Unless a slip knot.
Once I thought I was wrong, but I was wrong.
Life is a banquet, and every days a feast.
68 F-250 CS 390 C-6 P/S A/C front disc. 2nd owner.
2016 GMC Terrain Denali 301 HP V-6 AWD.
2009 Silverado Crew Cab, V-8, 4X4.
DD-727
DD-806
AE-35
LSD-39
AS-41
AR-8
Once I thought I was wrong, but I was wrong.
Life is a banquet, and every days a feast.
68 F-250 CS 390 C-6 P/S A/C front disc. 2nd owner.
2016 GMC Terrain Denali 301 HP V-6 AWD.
2009 Silverado Crew Cab, V-8, 4X4.
DD-727
DD-806
AE-35
LSD-39
AS-41
AR-8
- iwhodat
- New Member
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- Location: Louisiana, New Orleans
- abe
- New Member
- Posts: 223
- Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:51 pm
- Location: North Central PA
Re: Hood Latch
At least the bump hood opens wide. My 54 hood is a real head bumper!
1970 F-350 flatbed dump, purchased 9/20/12
1954 F-100 bought from Grandpa in 1977 for $200

1954 F-100 bought from Grandpa in 1977 for $200

- sargentrs
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 9866
- Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 9:30 am
- Location: Georgia, Jasper
Re: Hood Latch
I believe the technical term is the "noggin latch interface". I've had it 2 or 3 times.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
- chad67
- Blue Oval Fan
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- Location: Sullivan, MO
Re: Hood Latch
It depends on how hard you hit your head as to whether it leaves a "bump" or a "dent.
1967 F100 SWB
1991 Thunderbird 5.0 with fully ported gt40 heads, cobra intake (also ported) and a trickflow stage 2 cam, manual steering, and custom 3" exhaust
1991 Thunderbird 5.0 with fully ported gt40 heads, cobra intake (also ported) and a trickflow stage 2 cam, manual steering, and custom 3" exhaust
- sargentrs
- 100% FORDified!
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- Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 9:30 am
- Location: Georgia, Jasper
Re: Hood Latch
chad67 wrote:It depends on how hard you hit your head as to whether it leaves a "bump" or a "dent.

Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
- Ranchero50
- Moderator
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Re: Hood Latch
After a thorough investigation I think most of my problem is the springs have relaxed over the years. My hood drops about 2" for every inch of spring travel and the springs are not very strong. The hood will droop a little bit on it's own and if I'm not careful to make sure it stays all the way up it'll ambush me. After the recovery I'll notice a gap between the hinge pieces that should be tight when the hood is all the way up...
Now to find some decent springs.
Now to find some decent springs.
'70 F-350 CS Cummins 6BT 10klb truck 64k mile Bahama Blue
Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.
Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.
- chad67
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2012 11:21 am
- Location: Sullivan, MO
Re: Hood Latch
Slop in the linkages will also contribute to droop. If you move the hood up and down and look close, you can see if there is play where the linkages connect and swivel.
1967 F100 SWB
1991 Thunderbird 5.0 with fully ported gt40 heads, cobra intake (also ported) and a trickflow stage 2 cam, manual steering, and custom 3" exhaust
1991 Thunderbird 5.0 with fully ported gt40 heads, cobra intake (also ported) and a trickflow stage 2 cam, manual steering, and custom 3" exhaust
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Re: Hood Latch
Over the years, I've learned to duck!
But, because I generally wear a cap with white on the top and front, I did clean the latch well, lube it lightly and remove any excess. Now, if I do BUMP it, at least there's no evidence on my hat! Hey, no one try to steal the idea I just had for using the latch outline as a hat logo! I might make a zillion on that one.
AND, more importantly, whenever I park it in the garage, I open the hood and use a proper length of 3/4" CPVC pipe to prop it open at 99% of MAX. I cut small grooves in the upper end of the pipe for the edge of the opening in the underside of the hood to sit on. The lower end sits in the left front corner sort of behind the headlight. The purists out there will want matching L & R pipes but I find one works nicely.
That way, I don't have to deal with replacing the springs, etc and I am getting all I can get clearance wise. Plus, who says new springs are going to give you MAX clearance? And, for how long? Plus, my springs are happy now!
Note: I used CPVC because it was handy. However, the 3/4" CPVC does seem to be the right diameter, stiffness, etc. while 1/2" PVC might be too flimsy and 3/4" PVC might be overkill.
And, I'm thinking the pipe will snap before anything important gets damaged if someone (certainly not me!) ever tries to close the hood without removing the prop!
But, because I generally wear a cap with white on the top and front, I did clean the latch well, lube it lightly and remove any excess. Now, if I do BUMP it, at least there's no evidence on my hat! Hey, no one try to steal the idea I just had for using the latch outline as a hat logo! I might make a zillion on that one.
AND, more importantly, whenever I park it in the garage, I open the hood and use a proper length of 3/4" CPVC pipe to prop it open at 99% of MAX. I cut small grooves in the upper end of the pipe for the edge of the opening in the underside of the hood to sit on. The lower end sits in the left front corner sort of behind the headlight. The purists out there will want matching L & R pipes but I find one works nicely.

That way, I don't have to deal with replacing the springs, etc and I am getting all I can get clearance wise. Plus, who says new springs are going to give you MAX clearance? And, for how long? Plus, my springs are happy now!

Note: I used CPVC because it was handy. However, the 3/4" CPVC does seem to be the right diameter, stiffness, etc. while 1/2" PVC might be too flimsy and 3/4" PVC might be overkill.
And, I'm thinking the pipe will snap before anything important gets damaged if someone (certainly not me!) ever tries to close the hood without removing the prop!
Bill
68 F100 Ranger
73 F100 Ranger XLT
Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in garages. (Apologies to Kenneth Grahame.)
68 F100 Ranger
73 F100 Ranger XLT
Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in garages. (Apologies to Kenneth Grahame.)