1971 short wide (shortstack)

[shortstack]

Well I finally got the truck on the road. It is by no means streetable yet, but I couldn't stand it and rigged it up to take it around the block. First time it has moved under it's own power since 2004.

I stole the wheels form a trailer as I thought they were a little better fit for the time being. The tires are a bit big for the trailer, but they will work until I have found the right wheel for my truck.


I had a variety of different hubcaps and tried a few to see how they fit. I am not sold on any of them so far. The wheels are stock 15"X5.5" from an 87 F150 I used to have.

I don't like this look, but thought I'd share everything I tried in case anyone else is interested.


Factory original hubcaps


centercaps from a 90's? F150


These are some other typical Ford hubcaps that I used to run on the truck. I am not sold on them, but they are what I used for the maiden voyage. Yes, if you are asking whether or not I used a marker to temporarily make the front tire a blackwall...


This was the first drive, and you can see how I have a 5 gallon can attached to the frame with my hose run into it, and some rubber/tape to keep it from leaking. I also had a fire extinguisher handy in case my incredibly unsafe method didn't work. I took it easy and just cruised through a few gears to see how it drove.


With the T5's gearing as well as the stock 3:25 rear end, this thing feels like second gear when you're in first. After I have it tuned, and my fuel system completed, I'll be able to really test it out, but I think shorter rear gears are in order.

Dad cleaned the dash and I put the seats in with the old temporary brackets for the test drive.




I received the CNC parts from Ranchero50, and they are top notch. I have yet to install them, but they really look nice.


Despite the picture, there are no blemishes, not sure what caused that to appear in the picture on the lower left hand corner.




I'll post my gearing question in the driveline section in case no one is following along here.

[iwhodat]

You do excellent work, sir! Your truck is beautiful. A set of mid 90's chrome F150 rims would look fantastic on your truck

[shortstack]

Thank you! It is coming together one piece at a time. I still have quite a few things to figure out before it is a daily driver, but I'll get there.

[shortstack]

Last weekend, when I was running the truck it seemed to go flat around 3000RPMs as if the choke was on. At some point I had taken the carburetor off to use on another bump for a short time. I thought there may be some corrosion or gummed fuel in there so I removed the carb. to check it out.




Everything looked pristine, which I honestly was not expecting. The primary side bowl was full of fuel, and everything appeared to be fine. When I got to the secondary bowl, I noticed that it was empty. I pressure tested the inlet needle and it was not opening. After removing the needle and float everything looked fine. I sprayed some Seafoam on the needle and moved it around. It was opening fine after I reinstalled everything. One thing I did note, the primary bowl's float was brass, whereas the secondary bowl's float was plastic. I have never been into this carburetor, and I bought it brand new from Summit several years ago. Not sure what the deal is there.


After I got the carburetor installed and everything running right, I took it out for another test drive and it was a completely different truck. Pulled very strong, and surprised me quite a bit.

I painted the original white visors with some vinyl rattle can spray, and they turned out very nice in my opinion. I taped off the rods, and metal retainers to keep them looking original.



Dad and I are currently working on the charging system, as it is not charging unless I jump across the field and battery terminals of the regulator connector. We pulled the gauge cluster back apart to figure out where the problem may be. More updates to come.

[fordguy_78]

Time for a junk yard 3g swap, Looks good by the way

[shortstack]

Funny you should mention it. I spent the better part of the day researching exactly what all I need to do the 3G swap. It will definitely need to happen with my electric fan, and electric fuel pump.

[shortstack]

Not much of an update as all of the parts I ordered have not arrived yet. We worked more on trying to figure out why the charging system is not working. I talked to Painless technical services, but they didn't really have anything to add that we have not tried yet.

I noticed a small oil leak when I would drive the truck, and park it. It was only after it had been running, and not a constant leak. I pin pointed it to the front main seal, which I must have screwed up when installing the balancer after my oil slinger/fuel pump eccentric fiasco.


Getting pretty tired of redoing work I should have done correctly in the past...


I ordered a cheap fuel pressure gauge for making sure my fuel pressure was within spec. 5PSI is just right, based on the manual. This gauge had some funny reviews. Everyone said make sure you don't get any fuel on the plastic face as it will cloud up and me useless. Seems like a fuel gauge would be able to handle a little fuel, but I guess that's why it was so cheap...


I have been waiting until I got my fuel filler all figured out before getting too crazy with testing, but dad jumped in and did a burnout. I figured what the hell, and did a couple as well. No weak links were found which I was happy with. I expected to spin the tires in 1st and possibly scratch in 2nd, but when I stepped on it, it just kept on spinning through 2nd. This picture was second gear.


You can see the open diff doing its best, and some old dirt or mud that was knocked loose...

[Busboy]

I want a shop like that!

[shortstack]

Finally got my fuel filler sorted out. I still have to get a vent for the tank, but the hardest part is done.

I ordered a marine fuel filler from Overton's, and am very pleased with the quality and design.


I did away with the chain. The cap is solid, except for the portion where the push button is located. It is a hefty piece.


I had two bungs welded onto the tank, one -6AN fitting for my fuel return, and one 3/8NPT for my vent.

Here you can see the other bung with the fitting as well as the elbow I used for my filler.


I used aluminized exhaust pipe for my filler. It is 2.25" and necks down to 1.5" for the filler.

First time in a long time that I have pulled out the welder. There was not enough clearance between the inner and outer bed sides to have a hose over the 2.25" pipe.


Getting everything roughly in place. I had to cut the pinch seam and roll it over for extra clearance. The pipe in the above pictures was never going to fit with the extension on the opposite end from the filler, so I cut it and will have another union.

I had to flatten the pipe somewhat so that it would clear the bed and frame.

This is where I cut my hole after lots of measuring. No turning back now. I am not sure what if anything I should do about the surface rust between the bedsides. There is not enough room to get anything in there to clean it up for paint or undercoating.



After cutting the hose to length, and a few more modifications, I was able to place the filler. I used a piece of aluminum I had, and cut a circular relief to clear the hose. I plan on cutting the piece of aluminum to contour the outside diameter of the filler flange, but I was so tired at this point I called it good for now.


Dad was working on the electric fan controller, relay, and fuse. I used the same maxi fuse design that came with the painless harness. They are both hidden behind the battery, but you can still slide the cover off and replace the fuse without having to remove the battery. It is getting pretty cluttered in the passenger side engine compartment, but I can clean that up later. Just need to make sure everything works as it should beforehand.


Made the decision after trying a 2G alternator I had from another truck, to do the 3G swap. The old location for the regulator will be used for the controller and relay mounting. There is still some wiring left to do, and clean up of the wires.

[IN2FORD]

Awesome work! How did you clear the frame on the gas filler?

Barry

[shortstack]

There is a little over 2" of clearance between the frame and bed. I just squished the pipe in my vise to make it an oval. There is plenty of clearance. I did have to flatten two pinch welded seams as noted in the previous pictures.


It is pretty tough to get a picture when all you have is a phone, but this shot is with the camera placed behind the driver's side wheel well, under the bed, facing the passenger side. You can see the bed floor, and the pinch weld that hangs down. (this was before I cut and rolled it over.) You can also see the elbow that connects to the tank in the background.

Mounting the tank below the frame, rather than within the frame rails, allowed me to have the extra space.

I can try to get a better picture if you have any other questions.

[IN2FORD]

Nope that's perfect. Gives me a good idea where to make things work. Again nice ride!!

Barry

[shortstack]

Had a short day at work and was able to get some work done. I finally decided on the wheels and got them ordered from Summit. Two day shipping and it was free. Can't beat a deal like that...

I went with Wheel Vintique, Series 62, 15"X8" and 15"X7". I like that they appear stock, can use the factory hub caps, but are wider to accommodate more rubber.



I was a little wary of the packaging and knowing what I know about shipping companies, so I pulled everything out for inspection. I was pleasantly surprised that everything was perfect, no scratches or dents. Found this inscription on one of the wheels.

Maybe he should have been more concerned with cleaning weld spatter than marking up the wheels...


I still am not sure if I want to run a small center cap, or a full hub cap, but ordered some new lug nuts anyway. I didn't think they'd be this long from the picture, but they are growing on me.



The wheels are just primer right now, and they will be black. I can't decide if I want to have them powder coated now, or just paint them black for the time being to get it on the road. I did paint the front hub black for right now to see how I liked the look with no hub cap.

Definitely going to have to go with black for the wheels.


The front wheels are 15"X7" with no offset, and 4" back spacing. The rear wheels are 15"X8" with -12MM offset and 4" backspacing. The rear wheels will stick out 1.3" more per wheel that the fronts, which should be very close to making my track width even.



I plan on running BF Goodrich Radial T/A tires. 275/60-15 rear, and 235/70-15 on the front. The tires will be the same overall diameter, just wider in the rear.

I also ordered a 130 amp 3G alternator. It is Bosch PN# AL7534AN. It is new, not remanufactured. It was quite a bit larger than the original alternator, and as others have stated, some modification was necessary.


I started by trying to mount the original pulley onto the alternator, but quickly found that it was not going to work. It was rubbing the case when installed with no spacer.


I took the shim from the original alternator and it spaced the pulley away from the housing, but it was out of line with the belt, and there were not enough threads showing to satisfy me.


Not much help, but this is the difference in shaft length.


I also pulled the alternator apart so I could clock the connections towards the fender instead of facing the distributor. Very simple modification. Just remove the pulley, three bolts and slide the assembly out enough to clear the body while rotating to desired location.
Before:

After:


The case was hitting my mounting bracket, but it was nothing the cut off wheel couldn't handle. This is before I modified it in any way. I guess the previous owner of the brackets I used had ground away for another alternator at some point.


I failed to take a picture after I made my modifications, but I cleaned it up nicely, sanded the edges, and repainted the bracket. It no longer looks as if a beaver has been chewing on it. I decided to run the new pulley and see how it performs. There was enough movement in the tensioner bracket to allow the slightly larger pulley to work fine with the same belt.

[shortstack]

I finally was able to drive up to the gas station and fill the tank for the first time. The nozzle fit but was snug. I can see where some nozzles will not fit, but it will work until I decide to cut a hole in the bed side, or redesign the fill location.



I finished painting my wheels. I went with Semi gloss black for the time being.


I went with BF Goodrich Radial T/A tires as previously noted. 275/60-15 rear, and 235/70-15 front.


235/75-15 and 275/60-15 comparison.


With the -12MM offset in the rear they fit perfectly.






I am still on the lookout for centercaps that I like. I ordered some push through bullet style caps, but they were too small. Summit listed the wheel's center diameter as 3.125" but it is closer to 4.25".

I spent the better part of Saturday flushing the cooling system. There was surface rust present in the block from sitting up so long. I must have flushed the system 20 times, using just water as well as a cleaner. I finally was able to get clear water flowing. I filled the system up with water and antifreeze, then went for a lengthy drive to make sure all was well. I also picked up a new radiator cap, as my old one wouldn't hold pressure.


The front corner was getting rather cluttered with random wires we had added over the past couple of months. I decided to clean it all up and consolidate while I was wiring the 3G alternator.

Before:



During:




After:



I began wiring the alternator and used 6 gauge wire with a 175amp fuse in line. The only other wire that needs to be connected to something other than the alternator is a 12V switched wire. I also made up a cable for the starter. The one I had was just a generic length from the parts store with really cheap crimped terminals. I added some heat and chafing protection where the cable passes by the engine perch and header.





I also saw an idea in the Ford Racing booth at Pate a few weeks back for tidying up my plug wires, and other cables throughout the engine bay. It keeps them separated and looks nice in my opinion. I could have hidden the end of the zip tie if I planned it out a little better, but you get the idea.

[shortstack]

Alright guys, I'm looking for honest opinions. I think the rear tire wheel combo fits perfectly and am really happy with the way it turned out. The front tire looks a little small, but it is the same height as the rear. I also think there may be too much black on the wheels, almost as if I need to run a typical hub cap to balance out the color.



These are just push through centercaps, but they almost make the combo look like a trailer tire or like it belongs on a 3/4 ton. I didn't like the bullet style centercaps, and could not find a smooth centercap.