Hackster's F100 #2 CV Swap 6 speed manual and Coyote

[poke em]

Trucks looking great. I really like the way your seats are turning out. I put a bench from a 94 in mine. I like the firmness, but its a little thicker and I end up sitting closer to the steering wheel than I'd like.

I saw your discussion on FTE about the black hood hinges. I'm not a member there so I'll reply here. I painted my hinges wimbledon white to match the truck and the engine compartment. I wasn't sure how it would turn out but I think it looks good. You really don't even notice them, they completely disappear. I was thinking about painting just the spring black or silver.

[hackster]

Trucks looking great. I really like the way your seats are turning out. I put a bench from a 94 in mine. I like the firmness, but its a little thicker and I end up sitting closer to the steering wheel than I'd like.

I saw your discussion on FTE about the black hood hinges. I'm not a member there so I'll reply here. I painted my hinges wimbledon white to match the truck and the engine compartment. I wasn't sure how it would turn out but I think it looks good. You really don't even notice them, they completely disappear. I was thinking about painting just the spring black or silver.

Great looking engine bay my friend!!! White hinges look outstanding in the white engine bay. Dig the hardware as well =)

Every updated gets you that much closer and I look forward to each one.

Thanks for taking the time to explain the rear trailing arm mounts on the CV front end. I never knew they mounted like that and have done lots of googling about it since then and understand what you were talking about. I do not recall anyone else mounting them as they came out of the car as you did, but I will when I do mine.

Keep the pics coming!

No problem, there is a method behind my madness

Got the seatbelt for the drivers side all installed, bolted in the seat for temporary and checked it all out. With the stock foams int he seats they are very comfortable. Great seating position and easy pedal operation.

Got the hood on it and tried to line it up but the hood is pretty messsed up from opening going down the freeway sometime in its life.

Had a little bit of help from some friends and figured out why the speedometer was non operational. Turns out the information I got from Ford Racing was wrong and I had two of the wires on the sender backwards. He is a full time tech and we pulled up the wiring diagram from All Data.....It was awesome.

Swapped the two wires back and forth on the connector and Voila....working speedometer.

Now onto the bad news.

I have a noise in the engine that we are unable to locate. It sounds like spark knock or pinging but it sounds pretty mechanical sometimes as well. I pulled the pan a while back and inspected and there was nothing in there. I also did an oil change after running for a couple hours or so and there was nothing in there either.

So I needed to dig further to find said noise....its not healthy.

Pulled Passenger side cam cover to inspect.







I do not see anything wrong on anything that I opened up. The top end on this thing looks like its brand new but I am not a Ford trained technician.

I think it sounds like timing chain to me. The only thing I did see was some whitness marks on the backside of the timing chain that indicate its been running against some plastic, dark colored like black or dark brown. I am wondering if I have a chain guide/tensioner issue but am not too sure how to tell if I do or not.

Oil pressure is excellent 100 psi at startup and around 40 at a hot idle.

Could be spark knock because of the no cats, open exhaust and open element air filter...could be mechanical issues I have no idea at this point.

Any input? Its almost impossible to get video of it since it has to be running and driving.

Pretty sure at this point that I am not going to make Thunder Hill, I just am running out of time to do it all.

Super Bummed out.

Sean

[ablokzyl]

When donor car was hit, did it break the front cover? If it sounds like it is in the chains and you are seeing guide material on the chains, I would be thinking guides and tensioners would be in order.

[ablokzyl]

Another thought. Are there any codes in memory? When it got hit, maybe one of the variable cam timing solenoids got jarred. They have been known to go bad on the 5.4 F-150s left and right causing all kinds of valve train noise.

[ablokzyl]

Your exhaust timing solenoid looks broken in the last picture also

[db204804]

Hey awesome build as per usual! Just curious about the 22 sheets of Hush Mat... How many square feet is that? Just trying to figure out how much I will need.

-Dom

[hackster]

When donor car was hit, did it break the front cover? If it sounds like it is in the chains and you are seeing guide material on the chains, I would be thinking guides and tensioners would be in order.

Front cover is still very much in tact. No leaks, no cracks and no damage. The worst of the damage is a scratch on the water pump pulley.

Another thought. Are there any codes in memory? When it got hit, maybe one of the variable cam timing solenoids got jarred. They have been known to go bad on the 5.4 F-150s left and right causing all kinds of valve train noise.

No codes, different computer from when it was in the crash all together. I dont know how to check the solenoids.

Your exhaust timing solenoid looks broken in the last picture also

It is just the plastic housing on the one connector. The coil cover shows no signs of damage, the seal is in tact around the solenoid and the body of the solenoid is undamaged.....I am not saying this is not the problem but I dont know how to go any further here.

Hey awesome build as per usual! Just curious about the 22 sheets of Hush Mat... How many square feet is that? Just trying to figure out how much I will need.

-Dom

Each piece is 2 sq feet so about 40 or so. Keep in mind, that is nothing in the doors or the roof. I have 30 sheets and plan to use them all.

From last nights post...

We thought it was spark knock or Pre ignition being a really lean conditions so I ran some 110 octane through it last night, no change at all.

There is no other signs of damage other than the plastic on the one connector. The electrical connections appear to be just fine inside that one.

Pulled the serpentine belt off last night to rule out alternator, tensioner and water pump. Same noise.

Added in some hyper lube to the engine oil as I have heard good things about it same noise.

Picked up a stethoscope and got it good and warm and tried to pin point the tick. There is literally no noise from the engine. It was loudest near drivers side tire. So I started poking around with the stethoscope around the exhaust and frame then hit the bellhousing and the noise was very clear in the stethoscope.. tick tick tick.

I have no idea if the tick tick tick and clatter are related to each other, they sure sound similar though.

Push in clutch pedal, hot tick goes away.

Going to drain transmission fluid this am and flush and refill with redline MTL.

Interior has to get finished today and over to the upholsterer. Trip permit is going to run out and I need to get it registered so I am playing hooked from work for a little bit today.

Work peeps following along.....thanks for understanding =)

I'll report in in the MTL helped at all.

Sean

So....I had one dry day, and one day to get the upholstery done and get it to the upholstery guy.

Got the MTL swapped in, that was a nightmare by the way. It made no difference in the clatter. I raised up the rearend a little bit and went for a cruise. I put 10 gallons of fuel in the truck and drove it to the DMV.

Well its got a couple really big problems. The driveline vibration is bad. It does go away at some speed not sure what speed that is, it seemed to change around a little bit.

3rd gear, well it does not go into it all the time. Seemed to work about 80% of the time but twice at least I got a grind out of it.

The Clatter that I mentioned before and thought was pinging or detonation is clearly not. It is a mechanical issue, its present in any gear clutch in or out once its warm and has been driven a ways it will make it in the driveway.

Swapped in a brand new set of Motorcraft plugs just to rule that out.Also double checked the coil packs on each plug, verified operation as best I could. No difference.

So I am done with this thing for a bit. I am mentally destroyed between this and my actual work load.

I finished up all the work on the interior since I had a deadline with the upholstery guy tonight.

Here is what I ended up with on the console. I thought it turned out really well for a backyard shop.

Adding a little detail for the side to break it up. This is 1/8" material.



Cut out, mocked up and letting the glue dry



So this piece serves two purposes. Cover the screw holes that hold the thing together and add a little detail to the top of the side panels. The 1/8" piece is about 3/4" shorter than the side, giving a nice little detail when it is being covered. The side will be covered in one piece each. The center panel will be removable for access to run wiring and things like that down the center. Panel will have a french stitch all the way down the middle to keep the theme on everything.



Going to get the shop all cleaned up and push the truck to the side for a while.

Thanks for following along everyone and offering up your help, I really do appreciate it.

Sean

[Monkey-1]

You'll find the ''gremlin' before its all said and done. Keep plugging away at it. Great work as usual.

[IN2FORD]

Your noise is the release bearing. If the noise goes away when you push in the clutch, then it's the bearing. Especially of you are having issues going into gear. That tells you the clutch is not disengaging like it should. Diagnosing over the internet....sounds like a new release bearing is in your future. Is there any adjustment on the clutch setup?

Barry

[EDVSU]

Awesome work Hackster! Very impressive. Very motivational. Keep up the good work, I'm tuned in now on more updates and Godspeed with your build. A+.

[FOWLER]

As mentioned earlier definitly look at the cam phasers for the noise, I've replaced a ton of them for exactly what your describing, sometimes the noise sounds like its everywhere.
Also maybe look at the driveshaft for the vibration. The Mustangs were ultra finicky when going from the 2piece shaft to a 1piece, only a few on the market that wouldn't vibrate and those are hit and miss. I tried 3 in my GT500 before I got one that worked. I was told the factory shafts are filled with an elastomer damper material that the driveline shops can't re-create. Hope it helps..

[hackster]

Your noise is the release bearing. If the noise goes away when you push in the clutch, then it's the bearing. Especially of you are having issues going into gear. That tells you the clutch is not disengaging like it should. Diagnosing over the internet....sounds like a new release bearing is in your future. Is there any adjustment on the clutch setup?

Barry

Its not the release bearing unfortuately Barry. It changes a little tiny bit when pushing in the clutch but not very much. Ill elaborate on it below.

I could type up an entire book about my troubleshooting process but here is the highlights.

I found a really hefty exhaust leak mid week so I pulled the exhaust apart and cleaned things up and put some copper RTV on the header flange to the small downpipe and reinstalled. Sounds exactly the same.

Had a friend come over Friday night with a Snap On Chassis ear....that was where the bad news started.

Its either bottom end noise, clutch or transmission.

We picked up a lot of noise on the side of the engine but even more noise on the bellhousing. So not 100% sure if the bottom end is shot or the clutch/tans is shot but something is wrong, broken,damaged for sure.

I started to pull it apart friday night and realized I had over looked something while building the truck......I cannot pull the trans out the bottom of the truck.:-roll

But I was able to get the transmission moved back far enough to pull the pressure plate and look at the clutch.

Here is where we get more questions than answers. The clutch is like brand new. Ford part with a manufacture date of 01/21/15, I had the car in what september and I bet the clutch took a couple of months to get shipped and installed so it might be four or five months in the car.

However the springs are really beat up and two of them are pretty loose in the cage, I can rotate the springs quite easily in the cage and two of them get looser and tighter in the cage. The center hub has a good tick tick tick to it as well when you rotate it in the clutch. When we were pulling out the driveline you could hear the clutch rattling as we were rotating the driveline back and forth





On the spring hub clutch you can see where the sprung hub portion has rotated all the way to one side and hit the stops.

All tore up....:-huh







I randomly talked with a guy in Seattle yesterday who races in a spec mustang class. He seemed to know these things better than most. I explained my issues, little bit of end play in the input shaft, rattle on bottom end and stuff and he said replace the clutch. DO NOT PUT A FORD CLUTCH in it though. He said on their spec cars they have to run the Ford clutch and can barely get a race weekend out of one clutch. He said get ahold of ACT and order their setup for it and be done with it. Then put it all back together and see what happens.

So as of right now that is my plan. Order a clutch on Monday and get it here as fast as possible and see what happens.

Oh, my Dakota Digital OBD adapter died also, so I have a new one of those coming Tuesday as well.

Totally running out of steam on this thing. If its bottom end, not too sure what I am going to do.

Here is crossing my fingers to this fixing it...

Sean

[poke em]

Couldn't you put the exhaust back on and run the engine free from the transmission? At least you would be able to tell if the engine is making the noise or not.

[tripped38]

I totally get your frustration! there is nothing wrong with taking a break and regrouping. I will miss the updates! Hopefully the clutch fixes the problem.

[michael9218]

Couldn't you put the exhaust back on and run the engine free from the transmission? At least you would be able to tell if the engine is making the noise or not.

I was thinking the same thing...run the motor without the clutch and trans and see what it sounds like. First check the flywheel bolts...