Best options for lowering 70f100.

[chriso]

So I've done some research, I've also been procrastinating on my project but I'm ready to roll now. Its a 70 short bed f100 2wd with a 302. I want it to be a nice street truck but I want to do the suspension right. I have no intensions or desire to go with airbags. Just want a low, good driving street truck with a bit of get up.

From what I understand my options are dropped beams(DJM), crown vic front end, MMII front clip etc. I plan on going with disc brakes up front but what are the pro's and cons of each set up? Right now the MMII front clip looks like a very good option.

I plan on building the 302 and putting a summit performance package in it it has only 44k original miles on it.

[Slacker809]

I'm going with crown vic swap. You'll get it lowered, disc brakes and rack and pinion steering.

[HIO Silver]

I'm going with crown vic swap. You'll get it lowered, disc brakes and rack and pinion steering.

And......

What about the rear end since it will not have a matching wheel bolt pattern?

________________

"Best" is whatever works for you.... Just know the options.

The simplest is DJM beams and rear shackles or rear spring hanger flip. Keeps your bolt pattern, no need to buy wheels and tires, and it can be done over a weekend... a day really.

Second, simple... DJM beams up front and an axle flip with a frame notch. This is very doable over a weekend. Fatman Fab offers bolt-in flip kit.

Third, CV subframe retrofit up front. For the rear (and to have matching wheel bolt pattern), a 80-83 F100 or so rear axle assembly that already has the small pattern but the leaf spring pads have to be relocated inboard due to the narrower frame width on 67-72s. Gotta buy wheels and tires.. meaning, more $$. Lots do do.

MII requires mucho $$$, measuring, cutting, fabbinng. Then you still have to deal with the rear axle.

Here's my '70 with DJMs and an axle flip. The front is a lil high in the pic because the front springs had not yet settled. It sits 1/2-inch lower in front now...



.

[Slacker809]

Good points HIO Silver. I'm new to this and was just going on what I've read. If someone wanted power steering and brakes as well as lowered would it be cheaper to to crown vic swap? I'll be buying wheels anyways. Mine are straight from 1992 so I'm not figuring that in equation. Sorry I'm not meaning to steal this thread. I think we have some of the same questions though.

[HIO Silver]

Good points HIO Silver. I'm new to this and was just going on what I've read. If someone wanted power steering and brakes as well as lowered would it be cheaper to to crown vic swap? I'll be buying wheels anyways. Mine are straight from 1992 so I'm not figuring that in equation. Sorry I'm not meaning to steal this thread. I think we have some of the same questions though.

I can't really answer your question on what is the cheapest. That will depend on numerous factors like your locale, your resourcefulness, how much of the work you're doing yourself, and the entire scope of the project. In my area, a complete CV subframe assembly is like $600.. plus it probably needs to be rebuilt with bearings, bushings, etc. From what I gather you want to lower it, and upgrade to PS, PB, and discs.

I recommend you set up a spreadsheet and research/cost out the various ways to achiever your goal using retail costs, useable salvage yard prices, and farmed out costs. Then you can gauge what is likely cheapest. .. I recommend you add at least 20% to the budget over each total for incidental items which invariably rear their heads.

[Slacker809]

Thanks HIO silver.

[chriso]

I want to buy once cry once kind of deal... talking to the fellas over at fatmanfab the mmII kits seem to be about one of the best options for doing a ground up resto project. I'd rather not rebuild a crown vic front end and they are getting harder to find around here. I'm thinking of doing the MMII stage v kit and a 4link rear. I think I can get away under around 4 grand with a pretty sweet set up.

[HIO Silver]

Well of course they'll tout the MII system... that's what they sell.

[fuzzier1]

I am doing a CV on my truck right now. I bought a complete car from http://www.publicsurplus.com from a city in my state. Currently there 13 03 and newer CVS listed currently in my state starting at $100. They will most likely sell higher than that but you the idea. I bought mine (complete car) for $750 and got everything off of it I needed and wanted.

The problem with the CV is the track width is wider than stock. The pluses, big brakes, rack and pinion steering, relatively inexpensive, easy to install.

Mustang II was my first choice and I had found this website where you can get laser cut flat metal plates you easily bend into shape and then weld up. Check out this site http://www.welderseries.com for more information. You still will have top buy A arms, spindles, brakes and other pieces but I think this MAY be less expensive than a Fatman Mustang II.

Drop beams was my last choice as it still is a twin I beam suspension. Nothing wrong with twin I beams if you are still using it as a truck, i.e. hauling loads etc. It is a very good and very stout suspension but not very good when lowering these trucks with possible camber issues. But if you are buying the drop beams then that shouldn't be an issue. The good about them is they will be probably the easiest install.

All of these you will then have to decide how you want to lower the rear end. This could be a hanger flip with stock axle or using a newer axle such as a pre 2003 CV rear axle (narrower than the 03 and newer) or an early explorer rear end using stock springs but doing an axle flip and/or hanger flip. You could do a four link or three link rear suspension or as I'm doing, a Lincoln Mark VIII IRS (there are other IRS that can be used too). The 3 or 4 link and the IRS are more challenging installs.

I hope this helps.

Fuzz

P.S. There fixed those links, my bad.

[Teledude66]

I want to buy once cry once kind of deal... talking to the fellas over at fatmanfab the mmII kits seem to be about one of the best options for doing a ground up resto project. I'd rather not rebuild a crown vic front end and they are getting harder to find around here. I'm thinking of doing the MMII stage v kit and a 4link rear. I think I can get away under around 4 grand with a pretty sweet set up.

Well if you have the coin for that system, then it probably is the "best" option, as the post asks for. I think everybody has their own opinion on "best." For me best is what I can get as close to being everything I want at once, and for the least money. That most likely mean in stages. I went with CV, because everything I need, and want will be basically there. Rear end options I'm still weighing out.
I chose against the beams because, they only got me the lowered stance, still have to get the brakes, I already have power steering so that wasn't a problem, but at 700$'s, compared to my CV at 350$'s, that 350$'s for something else. Not saying mine is better than anyone else, just best for me. I will still have to fab some stuff, but I think in the long run I'll be happier. I think you can the whole Fatman frame ready to go for like 4K right?

[Monkey-1]

I just got my Crown Vic suspension yesterday and only paid $313 for it. They had about a dozen cars to choose from and the one I got only had 70k miles on it. A little clean up and I hope to be good to go. I will likely swap in an Explorer rear end for the rear and get 4 wheel disc while doing it and may go with just a flip kit or with a custom setup for the rear suspension. For me, this makes the most sense as this will be an all Ford swap (easy parts availability from any FLAPS) as well as matching the bolt patterns. I will be changing the wheels anyway, so I'm not figuring that into this part of the swap. Probably grab a set of police steel wheels to roll around on temporarily.

[joelb114]

Don't forget about pre '86 Jaguar XJ6 IFS...
They are similar to the CrownVic swap in that they come out with 4 bolts, comes with nice disc brakes w/4piston calipers, rack and pinion and the Right Track Width!
Parts are easy to source, bolt pattern is 5x4.75 (GM) and it' steel so you can weld it in if you prefer... They are also really cheap.
There is a nice writeup if you search "Jag XJ6 IFS into F100" with great pics

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