A tip for king pin removal

Suspension, steering, brakes, wheels & tires

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AlleyCat
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Re: A tip for king pin removal

Post by AlleyCat »

Swap that straight zerk on the inner tie rod end for a 90 degree angled one. Crank it so it points straight down. :)
Clay

72 F100 4x2 Custom,289, C4 " Slow Ride "
70 F250 4x2 Ranger XLT , 360, C6 "B52 - IV"
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fordman
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Re: A tip for king pin removal

Post by fordman »

AlleyCat wrote:
fordman wrote: these trucks are very easy you just have to get used to them. they aren't a big deal really.
Craig, technology wise these trucks are dinosaurs. :lol: They really don't get complicated until someone starts adding things like EFI engines. The problem with dinosaurs is finding a veterinarian who can treat them. :P Most of today's mechanics..er..technicians don't have a clue how to service king pins. All they know is a few horror stories and don't have any interest in learning any more.

Twin I beams are just about indestructable if the owner follows 3 simple rules.

Rule # 1....Grease it regularly.
Rule # 2....Grease it regularly.
Rule # 3....Grease it regularly.

A couple of other Twin I notes. DO..run top of the line heavy duty shocks. DO NOT..run lug or block type tire treads. Solid rib tread designs give much better wear on these front suspensions.

Most of the members here have seen the chase scene in Mr. Majstyk. I've driven bumps and dents just about that hard. Cracked a couple windshields and bent a driveshaft but never hurt the Twin I's. :D
i know what you mean. i think i read a thread or heard a story about a newer mech that said he didnt know how to work on a point engine or it was harder than reading the computer.isnt that some good news? what are they teaching the new mechs now? how to read a computer? what ever happened to diagnosis? its not all computerized now days. one cool thing about snap on computers is they give you the range iti s suppose to be at and the range that it is giving you while testing. so it basically tells you this or that is bad or this or that is making the other readings out of spec.
Slash801
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Re: A tip for king pin removal

Post by Slash801 »

sorry that I post a reply for that old topic....

I replaced the king pin bushings and now the pins should come in...


Is it necessary to ream the bushing?? I hope not...in the manual for the 1968 f100 truck nothing was mentioned...
But if I scratch to much putting down the pins it would be so bad for me to order new parts to Germany...


Thanks for some recommendations

matthias
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sargentrs
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Re: A tip for king pin removal

Post by sargentrs »

The king pin bushings should reamed to .0001"-.0003" larger than the kingpin diameter. The kingpin should slide through both bushings with a minimum of effort, by hand.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
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two-bit
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Re: A tip for king pin removal

Post by two-bit »

I assume that you already have put the bushings in the spindle. If so....I did something years ago, many years ago, and it worked.
I put the bushings in and didn't size them before hand. So I had to figure out a way to machine them out to fit the pins.

I ended up getting a three stone brake cylinder hone. Put it in my drill, and started honing the top bushing until it was a nice tight fit. Then I honed the bottom one feeding the pin from the top down until I had a nice even fit. The hone I used was self centering, spring loaded style with replaceable stones. I ended up needing a second set of stones to finish the other side.

It may not be the best way to do it. It required a lot of time, and patience, but it worked.

Good luck with it, hopefully others will have some other suggestions for you too.

Two-bit
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