1969 highboy boxwood green

[Madman]

Try this link. I verified they work in the old/original socket as the one that comes with them are kinda tight. Also verified they light up with 12V DC charger.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Green-T10-1 ... OSwAYtWGyJ~

Hey Madman I checked out those bulbs and they are the wedge type socket. Mine are different however as being a twist in bulb. If I remember right mine are GE 1895 bulbs. Did you have to modify your bulb socket or are our clusters just different?

Your bulbs should press into a socket, which you put into the instrument panel assembly and twist like .90 degrees, correct? Mine were an original 1895 bulb, which is why it took so determine what would work. But to me it sounds the similar. I know the early clusters used something different, but I thought that was only 67's.

If you aren't sure, I can take a photo of the other inst panel I have when I get back from Phoenix next week.

[Lone Ranger]

Try this link. I verified they work in the old/original socket as the one that comes with them are kinda tight. Also verified they light up with 12V DC charger.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Green-T10-1 ... OSwAYtWGyJ~

Hey Madman I checked out those bulbs and they are the wedge type socket. Mine are different however as being a twist in bulb. If I remember right mine are GE 1895 bulbs. Did you have to modify your bulb socket or are our clusters just different?

Your bulbs should press into a socket, which you put into the instrument panel assembly and twist like .90 degrees, correct? Mine were an original 1895 bulb, which is why it took so determine what would work. But to me it sounds the similar. I know the early clusters used something different, but I thought that was only 67's.

If you aren't sure, I can take a photo of the other inst panel I have when I get back from Phoenix next week.

We have different clusters. I know the connector you are speaking about and I think mine is older. I wonder if my cluster was replaced at some time. It was originally supposed to be a "custom cab" cluster. Anyone else know? There should be pics further up of it.
Here's the connectors I have:

You can see my burns are almost gone, the human body is an amazing thing. The other arm still has a few days, but only took a week and a half to be almost free of bandages. I wish my truck could fix itself that fast

[Lone Ranger]

In between yard work I installed my gauge cluster. It looks so much better and was a cheap easy fix, my favorite
Truck is so dusty from grinding and wirewheeling, I can't wait to give it a good bath to see what I got.

[Bullitt74]

Everything looks very shiny, clean and refreshed - just like new

[1guydude]

http://www.fordification.com/tech/67-72ID_01.htm

Idk. It looks like u have the 67'-69' panel with the back of it and the 1890s style bulbs. I cant tell for certain though, not holding it and seeing it in person.

Ur updated panel looks amazing. I was gonna clean mine but after seeing urs. I have to buy a new lens and get some nail polish or paint pens or something. Good work!
D

[Lone Ranger]

Thanks guys! You just have to be careful when your hooking the wires back into the cluster because it's very easy to scratch your fresh dash paint
Guydude after reading that page you sent me it looks as if somebody swapped out the face plate on my bezel at some point. Mine should be the custom cab with the bar running through the middle of it but it's just the base model one. I do have all four gauges so that's all I'm worried about. I think it looks cleaner and simpler with the one I got.

[Lone Ranger]

I finished up my drivers side today everything went pretty well. Hopefully I can do the other side tomorrow. I'll post up a bunch of pictures in case anybody else has bad door corners.

[Lone Ranger]

Got it all hard welded in then ground it down good and then put the cats paw on the grinder and smoothed it out


You can see here the weather stripping is going to cover quite a bit so it doesn't have to be perfect.

Then I shot some primer... Not perfect but better than before and I had to get inside for some dinner. Tomorrow I'll shoot it with gloss black then I can get some more boxwood green and touch it all up when both sides are done.

[Bullitt74]

Lookin' good! Slowly but surely...

[Lone Ranger]

First thing I did today was put some seam sealer on all the welds after I primed them. Also cleaned all the welds underneath primed and sealed them with roofing tar.

Then I decided to make a piece to seal up the corner and drain any water that gets under the rubber out the door sill.


Then I decided to spray the back of the fender with undercoating while it was off. Once it dried I put it on for good and got it all aligned- I'm getting faster at it but it's still a pain to align them.

Then I got the drivers pan primed- I think I'll spray the floor when I can pull it outside and do the whole floor in undercoating. You can see the fender covers up most of my ugly welds Also notice the tape in the top hole- it's a must for protecting your paint when putting that tough fender bolt in. ( do not drop the bolt in there; it might end up living there! On my old truck I used a long screw driver and duct tape to get the bolt out.)

[67mann]

good work...glad to see the burns are healing....mine took awhile... from my knuckles to my elbow....worst pain I ever had

[Lone Ranger]

good work...glad to see the burns are healing....mine took awhile... from my knuckles to my elbow....worst pain I ever had

Thank you 67mann. I definately have a new respect for fire. It only takes a few seconds and weeks of healing, and I was a lucky one. Very painful. Super scary being on fire and having enough time to think, " I don't know how this is going to turn out for me". If you get burned bad jump in a cool shower immediately. I believe that helped me a ton. I hope others can learn from my mistake at least.

[Lone Ranger]

I was able to work on the truck again today. Tried pulling the truck out the other day and it wouldn't move. I started seeing dollar signs. Today I took a video from underneath to see what was up and it ended up that the transfer case was stuck in neutral. Easy fix what a relief. Pulled the truck out and gave her a good rinse and then started work on the passenger floor.

Cut out all the rot, cleaned it up and shot it with some weld thru primer.

Welded it all in top and bottom.

Cleaned it up made it smooth then shot it with primer. Also put seam sealer on all the welds but didn't get a pic of it.

Still need to pull the front fender and fix the door corner, then I'm done welding!

[Jacksdad]

You're making some serious progress there, Kyle - looking good

.

[Bullitt74]

Lookin' good Kyle!