IN2FORD wrote:
Hey Ryan, you are thinking correct on the bed bolts. You cannot access them. I did not realize this till after the fact so I do not have bed bolts there. If you can weld in nuts for those you will be good to go. As far as inner fenders, I had to trim very little around the CV frontend. Probably no more than 1/2" or so. I bought one new one from DC and wish I had bought both. Had to do alot of work to get the other to look as good as the new one.
Barry
Thanks Barry, I thought your inner fenders looked new!
Anybody know the torque specs on the CV main bolts, and the nuts?
Quick test fit of the front wheels to see how they look with the big brakes. I was originally going to remove the “Corvette” raised lettering on the calipers, but it’s so subtle that I’m going to run with it. Plenty of wheel to caliper clearance too.
Bolted up the rear sway that came with the Explorer 8.8. I’m going to weld some 1” threaded standoffs where the nut is in the picture. That way I won’t have to access behind the frame where the fuel tank is. Now to find some M12 standoffs.
Wow!!! I am doing the EXACT same thing only on a 66 F100. Im not on any of the 66 forums and as I have a 67 bump i do rob ideas from this forum. I have my frame on the lift now and just got my CV bolted in and the 8.8 sitting on the leaf springs when i noticed that i may need shims. I guess i will wait or if anybody has needed them please chime in. I had my frame blasted and just got it epoxy primed Friday. Its cool that you and I are about the same place on the build. I am also planning on a LS engine in this truck. Im wondering on how to do the engine mounts.
Another question...
What are you doing on shocks? Are you leaving the base plate and mod’ing the upper mount?
As far as bed bolts go... i got a set from the later model ford trucks, the ones with the t50 heads. Only thing ive noticed is that my bolts are 2” and 2-1/2”. The newer bolts are way longer and the “shank” up towards the head is bigger than the square hole made in the bed for the oem bolts. I may try to run a metric die up on the threads and make them work and grind some of the shank down so they will drop in the bed holes. The factory bed clips for the late model bolts will work on the frame as the throat is deep enough for the holes. Hope that makes sense.
I haven’t made it quite yet to the ls motor mounts, but enough people have done it, so there must be something out there. I plan to use the factory Explorer shock plates with the F100 shocks. I haven’t mocked that up yet, but I’ve seen others do it that way. Good info on the bed bolts. If I can find something like that to work, great. If not, I’ll just leave those 2 out. 6 outta 8 should be just fine for what I use the truck for.
As for the rear shocks, I just went out to verify the Explorer shock plates line up...and they do. These shocks are from an 87-95 Jeep Wrangler. They have the same mounting holes as the F100, but are shorter for the truck being lowered.
1970 F100 Ranger 2WD
project link: 
FE390PC