WhitsEnd Transformation

[WhitsEnd]

I re-used the original mounting bolts because they have the proper large load washers. The one on the inside was ground a little shorter due to interference with the bottom of the frame.
Nuts were welded in place for easy installation of new bushings in the future.

My welds are releasing some spatter. I think the flap disks I'm using are leaving a residue .

[WhitsEnd]

A couple more shots of the finished product.

[hfdco4]

Nice progress, really coming along now!

[devindastrup]

Very nice truck! And project as a whole! How are you finding the right hight and width for your rear mounts? I haven’t been able to find anything showing where to mount hem!

[WhitsEnd]

The mount location is dictated by the control arm itself. I have brand new bushings all around (no slop), so I'm just allowing the control arm to sit naturally at full shock extension and mocking up to the rear pad. There is some flexibility still, but I found both sides to fall exactly the same relative to the frame...and my frame is square.

What's more important is that the slot in the bushing is horizontal (pad at 35 degrees) and the bolt locations end up centered in the slots of the bushing plate. This is to allow proper adjustability for alignment and future bushing replacement.

That said, for the guys that are just welding the bushing plate flat against the frame wherever they get it to touch, well, poorly wearing tires could be an eternal result with no possibility of fixing it. With the plate flat, the slot inside the bushing for the spindle is not horizontal, meaning no allowance for front bushing adjustment in and out without binding at both ends of the control arm.

I should also note that I have mounted the whole cross-memebr 5/8" lower than most guys have, so my rear control arm pads are also lower.

[WhitsEnd]

With the fabrication and basic installation of the cross-member complete, the next two items on the agenda are
1) Steering
2) Brakes

I haven't purchased the new brake booster yet. Still debating on that setup. So, steering will be the focus. I have the new rack installed, the u-joints and shaft are in hand (previously posted) and I purchased a '74 automatic steering column from a local Craigslist ad.

It's a shame I have to change the column, because I know I'll never find one as good as my original. Unfortunately, I'm staying firm with my decision to convert this thing to an automatic transmission and I just can't stand the cheap look of an aftermarket shifter stabbed in the floor.

I looked for an aftermarket FORD column, but they don't exist. Trust me, THEY DO NOT EXIST. Every aftermarket steering column is based on GM components and I won't do it. May as well drop a cheap Chevy motor in it as well.

Anyway, back to my crappy Craigs column...it's in rough shape, but rebuildable. I do need a couple components I can't find though. Does anyone know of a source for the selector switch on the '73-'78 columns? I assume mine is bad, based on a previous "re-wire". I also need the clip that attaches to the shift tube to activate the selector switch, although, that's an easy fabrication.



I'll be purchasing some other components like the lower bushing, new indicator lens, etc., but can't find a source for the switch.

This truck has no neutral safety feature, since it's a '70 originally built with a standard trans. However, it would be nice to have that feature for my daughter. Also, the original backup light switch was triggered by the shift linkage on the other side of the firewall and that's being removed with the original column. So, I need at least that portion of the selector switch anyway.

[WhitsEnd]

While we're on the topic of steering columns, why are so many people hacking up their steering shafts with die grinders and Sawzalls to remove the rag joint flange? This is a simple job for the cheapest of two-arm pullers. A couple turns of a wrench and the flange is in your lap.

No hacking, no bloody knuckles and no destroyed splines on the steering shaft.

You can see where the previously mushroomed end of the splines have simply straightened out from pulling the flange off.

[briansbronco]

I re-used the original mounting bolts because they have the proper large load washers. The one on the inside was ground a little shorter due to interference with the bottom of the frame.
Nuts were welded in place for easy installation of new bushings in the future.

My welds are releasing some spatter. I think the flap disks I'm using are leaving a residue .

I'm thinking you want to die grind these welds out and go back over them. Some of the places look like the penetration isn't very good and others look good. Turn up the heat on your welder and go slower. What you are looking for is a figure 8 pass. Up on the side of the notch, down in the valley and up on the other side. Not trying to be an ass or anything but I think these will crack and fail on you. There is a lot of lateral force on them. As far as spatter they sell an anti spatter spray you can apply to the metal before welding.

[WhitsEnd]

I'm thinking you want to die grind these welds out and go back over them. Some of the places look like the penetration isn't very good and others look good. Turn up the heat on your welder and go slower. What you are looking for is a figure 8 pass. Up on the side of the notch, down in the valley and up on the other side. Not trying to be an ass or anything but I think these will crack and fail on you. There is a lot of lateral force on them. As far as spatter they sell an anti spatter spray you can apply to the metal before welding.

Thank you for the feedback. I actually thought most of the penetration was good, with the exception of the backside of the forward bracket against the frame (forward vertical bead in the pic you quoted). I think part of my issue was fear of blowing through the 3/16" frame and still getting enough penetration on the 1/4" plate. My mind wouldn't let my hand slow down and the acute angle on that front side made it worse by not being able to work it as much.

I agree on that one. The others are still very ugly, but I felt the penetration was good. I have the ability to polish and evaluate the microstructure to see the penetration. I think I'll set up a couple pieces of scrap and weld them with the same parameters and speed and then section, mount and polish them. I can also etch them to enhance the grain structure. Perhaps post the results here.

In the meantime, I'll try to grind back the spindly looking stuff and re-weld. For the record, I had similar issues on the driver's side and ended up grinding back two areas and re-welding.

Thanks.

[briansbronco]

Here's a good little trick for pass length side to side. Mississippi......make a figure 8 on it's side and think Mississippi as you make a pass. Overlap the pass and do the same thing over and over again. The build on it looks high as well. Although I don't know what welder you are using. Basically increasing the heat, decrease the speed of your wire and go a little slower and you will be rocking I think. Most importantly, set a stool up or something and get in a comfortable position. One where you can keep a 45 degree angle on your nozzle.

[WhitsEnd]

Thanks.

By the way, my MIG welder is an Eastwood 175

[briansbronco]

Try setting your welder on "I" or "J"....then the speed on 4-5. Practice on a scrap piece of steel at an angle. Start in the valley burn a nice puddle then slowly drag it into a figure 8 up on one side of the valley then the other. It should force you to slow down on your welds, concentrate on your pattern and it should also reduce or eliminate your spatter.

[briansbronco]

If you get a nice deep weld, with a good pattern increase your wire speed. That will let you go a little faster through the piece but the heat needs to be remain on the higher settings. That welder is fairly light duty and I don't think you need to worry about burning through the 3/8 frame.

[WhitsEnd]

Well, my original heat settings were well below those suggestions, so I burned a couple beads on a scrap piece before re-welding my brackets. I can say that the penetration is deeper, because it's clearly evident from the top of the welds on this piece. You can see where the heat penetrated and then the molten pool slumped due to gravity, leaving scallops in the material on the high side.

Both pieces are 1/4" plate.

[briansbronco]

That is actually a LOT better looking weld. Deep penetration on both pieces, good coverage of the material. Looking at that weld I would either decrease your heat by one notch or ( the best option) increase wire speed one step and increase your speed through the weld. At the point you are at your weld looks great you just want to decrease the scalloping of the material above the puddle line. Other than that, it looks really good man. Worlds better than your first pictures. Welding isn't rocket science but it does take a "Hand" that is gained through time. I was fortunate enough to have a master pipe fitter teach me to weld and I am thankful for his brash, beer swilling and cussing at me to "get my S**t straight....LOL. That was nearly 30 years ago and I can still hear the guy saying "turn the heat up, what are you scared of? Weld the damn thing".