WhitsEnd Transformation

[WhitsEnd]

Thanks, I hope to get the rear line tied in this week, if I can find some time.

I previously replaced all of the lines on this truck when I first bought it a year ago, so the rear line is currently fresh up to the original distribution block on the frame, below the firewall. I don't really want any unnecessary fittings or connections in the system, but I don't want to replace a perfectly good stainless line either.

I'll add one union where the distribution block was to connect the rear line to the master cylinder proportioning valve output. After that, I'll pull the vacuum bleader out of the drawer and get the whole system air free.

[WhitsEnd]

Time is ticking...my daughter gets her learner's permit next month and I'd like to have this truck back on the road by the end of February. Still a lot to get done and little time. I have a ton going on with work and I'm also trying to get a few weekends of snowmobiling in at my place in Vermont.

It's going to be 68 degrees here today and tomorrow, so I won't have to crank up the garage heat. Should be a good couple of evenings to pick away at this.

[WhitsEnd]

Got some time in the garage last night. Couldn't back out the rear line from the distribution block, even though I only installed it a year ago. I had to remove the whole line going down the frame rail to the rear and cut the end off so I could add a new fitting and flare it. Installed one single union, which is visible in the lower left in this photo.



The I made a second line to connect to the proportioning valve. These shots show all three lines plumbed from the master cylinder:






All done with the lines and need to bleed all four corners now. I think that's a two beer job.

[Lone Ranger]

Wow you bend brake lines like a pro! That turned out great!

[WhitsEnd]

Wow you bend brake lines like a pro! That turned out great!

Thanks. I'm looking forward to finishing up the peripherals and moving on to the engine.

Several things still to be figured out in terms of timing, since I'm changing so much at once. The C6 tranny is new and startup will be critical as I'm adding fluid and working it through the gears. That said, I don't want to be messing around with getting a new fuel injection setup dialed in at the same time.

And then there's the issue of a new distributor and ignition and having to dial in the timing as well. Not a big issue, as I'll probably just get it to a strong idle and then focus on not letting the tranny burn up.

My options are:
1) install the motor with the carb and get the transmission sorted out, then swap the intake and install the EFI system.
2) temporarily set the motor in the frame and dial in the EFI with the front clip still off, then permanently install the motor and tranny and fully reassemble the front end. Cooling will have to be a temporary setup.

I guess what I'm really trying to avoid is swapping the intake and doing the EFI wiring, etc. while having to reach over the fenders and core support/radiator. I could prepare all of the plumbing and wiring before the clip goes back on and only have to worry about powering it and dropping the throttle body on later.
An FE intake has several things that could go wrong with alignment, so I'd much prefer to install the four barrel piece while the motor is still on the stand.

Lots to think about.

[popeyes71]

Options, options, options. Just my , what ever option you decide, make sure you break that motor in properly with the correct break in oil if you are still using a flat tappet cam. While your doing the break in, have a friend there that knows what he is doing because it's always to good to have a second set of eyes. As long as you top the tranny off before start up, you should be fine until the motor has finished the break in. Then you can focus on the tranny. As for breaking in the motor with the front clip on or off; I would just do it with the front clip on but maybe leave the hood off. Just because then you could route all the wires, battery and starter solenoid on the inner fenders if that was the overall finish plan. Your truck is low enough that leaning over the front clip wouldn't be that bad. Sorry for all of this; I feel like I gave more than but more like . Whatever direction you decide, it will be right and we are looking forward to seeing your progress!

[WhitsEnd]

I guess I need to clarify a couple things...

I'm not rebuilding the whole motor this go around. Just replacing the oil pump, water pump, timing set and valve seals, in addition to updating the ignition and fuel system. Internals will remain as-is. The motor runs fine and will be sufficient for my daughter to use as a daily driver for her last 2 years of high school. Beyond that, I'll likely be rebuilding it as a 445 stroker and the valvetrain will be hydraulic roller at that point.

I'm well versed in engines, and in particular, FEs. Usually the "someone who knows what they're doing" is me. My other toys include a 66 Cyclone with a 428 that I built, and yes, it has a flat tappet cam. I prefer solids. That cam is 148/152 duration at .050", ground on a 108 with .620" lift. Nice street motor, at 535hp. Victor intake, Edelbrock heads with porting, forged H beams and slugs, POP roller rockers. That's the 3rd cam I've broken in on that motor...no flat lobes on my watch. My login on the FE forum is FormerlyCyclonic66.

As far as topping off the tranny before starting...well, that's not possible with a C6. The pump has to be running to completely fill the converter and all passages. About 5 quarts is all that you can get into the tranny before lighting it off, including whatever you can get into the converter before you mount it. The motor needs to be running to turn the pump and then you fill slowly and consistantly, while moving it through the gears. This tranny is brand new...never been bolted to a motor.

[Manny]

You can come build brake lines at my house anyday. Fantastic !!

[WhitsEnd]

:
:
CHANGE OF PLANS!!!!
:
:
Started pulling the 360 apart to replace the water pump, timing set and oil pump. With the motor on the stand, and ALL 8 SPARK PLUGS STILL INSTALLED, I was able to rotate the motor easily with a 1/2" breaker bar on the crank bolt. The very low compression that started to build was instantly passed by the rings and dumped into the crankcase. No wonder this thing appears to be leaking from everywhere.

Aaaanywho...My future plans for this block include a 445 stroked combo, but that's for me later, not my daughter now. So, out comes the old 390 shortblock from my Cyclone and a quick call to Brent Lykins for:

Edelbrock cylinder heads
(not much more money than completely updating the old C8AE-H heads, and these will transplant to the 445 in the future)

Hydraulic roller camshaft. Not going to have a worn out valvetrain with new heads. I gave Brent my details and intentions and he proposed a custom grind. It's a little tame for my usual taste, but in the end I agreed with his initial suggestion. I have to remind myself that the near term is about a daily driver, not a weekend toy.

Morel hydraulic roller lifters. My first build with a roller setup. Research indicates these survive well in street builds.

New stock non-adjustable rockers, new shafts and reconditioned shaft stands.

Since I'm temporarily using the shortblock from my Cyclone, I'll also use the Holley 600, since it's a known, good unit. EFI is going on the backburner and will either wait until next fall or unitil I build the 445.

I went through my pile of FE gaskets and it looks like I have everything except valve cover and oil pan covered. I do have a couple two piece rear mains, but I think I'll look into the one piece seal that Rousch is offering for the FE.

[1guydude]

looking fwd to pixs of the motor and work if u can!
good job
-d

[jaysouth2000]

Parts are still rolling in. Motor mounts for the FE to bolt into the Crown Vic sub showed up at my doorstep today!!
I decided to buy them because I don't think I could have engineered a better component and certainly would have had more time in them than the cost of these.

Where did you get the motor mounts?

[jaysouth2000]

you still planning on the Fitech for EFI. I have installed two of them. Very nice units

[WhitsEnd]

Motor mounts were bought here....

https://www.outcastautoworks.com/collec ... -mount-set


Since I'm building a new motor (that wasn't in the plans) and just dropped a couple grand on parts, the EFI is taking a back seat. I think I've decided on the Sniper setup when I do go EFI though.

[Mercury100]

I agree on the holley sniper efi.
Better hand held tuner.
Complete eleteonic dash/ tablet can be added to it. Holley has been around a long time

[WhitsEnd]

Got the bottom end together without any drama. I used Sealed Power bearings on rods and crank, both at .010" under.

All clearances came in good, except the crank thrust is on the tight side at .005"



I'm OK with that, considering this will be bolted to a C6. If it were going to be a 4 speed, I'd take a couple more thou off the thrust faces of the bearing.