WhitsEnd Transformation

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This is the column side of the harness plug, as well as the new pins I ordered from this outfit in CA. These pins are an exact fit for this terminal block. Not many places still offer them. They are unique, with a single holding tang.

I did my best replicating factory crimps with needle nose pliers and one of my electrical pliers that had a very tight V crimp.



One more thing scratched off the list...

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That picture just reminded me that I never added removal of the clutch pedal assembly to my list.

Damnit!!!!!

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The only electrical items left include the ignition box and the air conditioning. The ignition may wait until the front end is back on, but the state of the truck at the moment is perfect for installing the A/C.

A full retrofit A/C system is on order from Classic Auto Air that should be here in about a week. Luckily, the installation instructions are available on their site, and I confirmed with them there aren't any changes.

So, if I can get any evening time in the garage this week, I'll try to get a head start on preparing for the A/C install by removing the heater assembly and drilling the required holes in the currently exposed passenger side vent box.

The goal here is to be able to drive this truck to the annual FE Race & Reunion at the end of the month at Beaver Springs (PA) Dragway. Unfortunately, it's approaching very quickly.

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Well, it's highly unlikely that I'll be heading to the FE event, since it's 4 days away and the front end of the truck is still on my garage floor.

I've done everything I can while waiting for the A/C kit to arrive. I really don't want to drop the fenders and core support on now, since there is complete access to everything needed for the A/C kit installation.

Meanwhile, while under the dash wiring the column in, I noticed that the dimmable portion of the light switch is toast. I added that to the list, and today I ordered that switch and a set of the plastic nuts that broke when I removed the headlight assemblies from Mac's. I also ordered a set of shoulder belts from Juliano's.

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Since the instructions for the A/C install are on Classic Auto Air's website, I got to work...

Cut the holes in the fresh air inlet box and removed the old heater hoses



Also cut the corresponding holes in the passenger side inner fender for the new heater hoses and the A/C bulkhead fittings



then moved on to the interior and removed the glove box door, liner, original heater box and heater control panel as well as the gauges to prepare for installation of the new unit and ducting.

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Another area that needed attention in preparation for the new A/C system is the radiator. Since the condenser and the transmission cooler will be installed on the front side of the radiator and I'm replacing the radiator anyway, it had to come out.

The shroud was removed and installed on the new radiator that I had previously prepped with transmission line fittings..



The line from the transmission will feed the auxiliary cooler to be mounted on the front. The flow will then come from the aux. cooler and feed the driver's side tube on the integrated cooler seen here. That tube is made from NiCopp, so it will easily bend under the radiator and forward to connect to the rubber hose coming from the aux. cooler. It has also been bubble flared for a good hose connection.

From there, the trans fluid flows through the integrated cooler and then returns to the transmission via a direct connection to another hard line at the fitting on the passenger's side.

I think the radiator is sufficient to keep the motor under temp control, even with the additional load of the condenser and tranny coolers.

I decided not to paint the radiator because any attempt at originality is moot, once you see the aluminum heads, aftermarket A/C, etc. I also thought about the impact on the aluminum's ability to shed heat as well as the concern of any paint scratches resulting in bright silver exposed anyway.

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I added the last couple of details to the motor that I could while waiting. New heater hoses went on, the throttle assembly was connected and the old radiator hoses were cleaned up and stuck on as well.

I haven't decided on the PCV plan, so that will come later. For now, everything is bundled on top of the motor, prepared for the front clip to drop on.



...just waiting for that A/C kit to show up

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I didn't take any pictures, but I also changed out the base throttle plate on the carburetor to one that supports an automatic trans downshift. This carb is temporary, but I still want to sort out the transmission properly as soon as I get it running. I happen to have a couple other Holleys laying around and one had venturies of the right size as well as the integrated kickdown linkage.

Once everything is sorted, the original throttle plate will go back on this carb and it will go back into it's plastic storage bin as the original for my Cyclone.

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I can't sit idle too long or I feel like I'm wasting time, especially when this thing has taken 6 months to this point and my daughter already has her learner's permit.

A couple weeks age, I bought a Truxedo tonneau cover, P/N 238601. I prefer the rollup style because I don't like the look of the snaps and the tri-fold takes up more space and doesn't always seal well between the sections.



I was hoping it would extend far enough to cover the stake pockets, but it doesn't (they are currently covered with duct tape). So, yesterday I ordered a set of universal side rail protectors that will cover the stake pockets and go under the tonneau rails.

The cover fits well, but the truck doesn't fit the cover. The front bulkhead is not flat from one side to the other. On top of that, the step at each side where the bulkhead mates to the side rails causes an issue. I'll just add another layer of dense foam seal across the front. Otherwise, it's a nice setup and fits pretty well.

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Update on the Tonneau cover.......
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IT'S JUNK!!!!!!!
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.After sealing up the front bulkhead, I aligned it again and clamped it in place. When I closed the back panel to lock it, one corner of the front popped up.



These plastic corner pieces attach the front beam to the side rails and are all that resists the torque of the front beam when the tension is applied. Well, one of them didn't do it's job.

I added 90 degree steel brackets to both sides, bolting them to the inside of the front rail and screwing them to the inside of the side rails with large sheet metal screws. I'll paint them black to match and they'll disappear.

The plastic pieces have no business in a roll up cover that uses tension front to rear in the design. They aren't even solid! Even cast pot metal would have been acceptable.

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Another bad quality part bit me.

I decided to change the light switch because the resister spring for the interior dimming was shot. I bought a switch from Mac's, which is a Dennis Carpenter part. Normally, I've found DC parts to be very high quality in the past. That was not the case with this switch. The threads were so poor, the bolt was unable to engage with it.

Luckily, the ceramic donut and whole dimmer assembly up front is removeable. I pulled that from the new switch and added it to the old switch.

This is a picture of what went in the garbage. The new switch and the old dimmer components.

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I had previously encountered problems with the standard kickdown lever on the transmission, which was a straight lever and interferred with the shifter bracket.
Some C6s had a kickdown lever that had a horse shoe shape that would work. I found this outfit that makes it, as well as many other specialty levers.


Here it is installed.



It looks like it hits the shift lever in this photo, but it doesn't. It has a bend that puts it inside the shift lever.

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Well, I got tired of waiting for the A/C system to arrive and started getting the front clip prepared to drop on. I rigged up the hoist to lift the whole clip and set it in place. It's only resting in place in this photo until the A/C arrives. Then I can just wheel it out of the way, install the compressor and condenser and drop the front back in place for the last time.

It's been 6 months since the front has been on this truck.
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I was worried the front would end up too low and my goal for this swap was to have as little change as possible from stock ride height.
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MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!
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[Bullitt74]

That just looks fantastic! This is such a great build for so many reasons.

Is there another source of headlight switch you would recommend? I'm now thinking of getting mine through NAPA.