PaPa's 69 F100 Explorer Coyote 10R80 swap

[Venomous duck]

fuel 11.JPG

fuel 12.JPG

[Fordkid68]

You're doing an awesome job!
Keep up the good work!

[jzjames]

When it’s done I hope you just drive it as a daily driver.
Then it can get worn out for another 50 years.

[Venomous duck]

Thanks Adam, I'm making it up as I go, but mostly I am trying to keep up with you.

It's not going to be a daily driver. I am thinking I will park it in the living room, if the wife doesn't mind.

[Fordkid68]

It would definitely make a good conversation piece in the house Lol!!

[hfdco4]

Nice work on those lines and clips. You are making some progress now.

[Venomous duck]

Thanks, I think it was worth the effort.

[Venomous duck]

I spent the spring and summer putting in a Koi Pond and other projects. I have gotten back to work on the truck, this is where I am at.
I didn't get get pictures of this but I stripped and powder coated all the wheels and installed the hubcaps. I discovered many variations in the rims between years, some have centers that are riveted others are welded. 2 different sizes of valve stems and even the lips can be different. This truck had 3 original wheels and one was different. I had to really look through my wheels to find a fourth matching rim. One of the new hubcaps that came from DC had chrome peeling off. They were sitting unopened for 10 months before I discovered it. I contacted DC and was told they could not give me a refund because I had them for so long. I told them I just wanted a replacement. I had to point out the fact that they have a one year warranty. This took several emails. They finally agreed to refund the price of one if I would send it back. They could not replace it because they were on back order. I sent it back and confirmed via the tracking number that they received it. They stopped responding to my emails. I never got a refund. I finally bought a replacement from NPD.

[Venomous duck]

I had made new brake lines from Nicopp tubing but I was not happy with the way they looked. I decided to put stainless steel lines so it would match the fuel lines. Since I am using the disc brakes from my 75 I knew that a bump side kit was not going to work. A dent side was not going to work either because most of the chassis is wider. I found that Fine Lines sells line individually. So I got the rear set for an f100 bump and the front kit for a 75. I did not think the long line from the combo valve to the rear would work from either kit. The proportioning valve on the 69 is on the frame. The dent sides use a combo valve and is mounted to the steering box (in 73-75 at least). I am using a combination valve. Also I am using different mounting hardware anyway.

flare tool.JPG

I knew I would have to make that one.

[Venomous duck]

I was having trouble doing the AN flare. The flare was too deep and split or cracked. The instructions are translated from Chinese so are not real clear. It says that when doing 37 degree AN (single flare) that you skip step 2. I finally found an Eastwood video on youtube that showed the correct way to do it. This is how they explain it. Mount the line in the die with the end proud of the die. Set turret to step 0 and pull the lever, this will set your initial depth and push the die in position. At this point if you were doing a 45 degree double flare you would tighten the clamp that holds the die. When doing 37 degree single flare you will leave this loose. Set the turret to step 1 and pull, this will push the line to the proper depth. This is when you tighten your die clamp. Then rotate the turret to step 2 and pull the lever. I practiced this several times on scrap pieces and it would either split or crack the flare. I solved this by heating up the end of the tube with a torch just before you put it in the die. I had to practice this several times to get it right but it worked great, perfect flare every time. I also did this on the 45 double flare as well since it took less pressure to flare it. The stainless line I was using was just a generic brand so this may have something to do with it. I did try to single flare the 3/8 line and did not have this problem. It was an Earls Performance line. I did not try to double flare it.

37 degree split.JPG

37 degree good.JPG

[Venomous duck]

I then proceeded to make the long line to the front.

Long line 1.JPG

[Venomous duck]

This is where the the 37 degree AN flare is used. There was no way I could make a single line go all the way to the combo valve. I could have used a double inverted flare union here but wanted to stick with stainless and also needed a standoff to get the line to clear rivets for the cab mount bracket.

37 degree union.JPG

[Venomous duck]

Here is something that really helps when making lines. Make several lines at many angles. Mark the 0 at the beginning and 0 at the end. I don't think I could of done these lines without this aid. You can not unbend a line once bent. Take your time.

angles.JPG

[Venomous duck]

This is the line from the union on the frame up to the combo valve. This was pretty tricky but the pre bent lines made it much easier.

Left inner.JPG

Rear feeder.JPG

[Venomous duck]

This is the original bracket and hardware from the 75.

line bracket 1.JPG

Line Bracket 2.JPG