Just bought this for 1500, Any thoughts?

[averagef250]

You must have CV driveshafts made by a driveline shop. The other concern would be making a CV shaft work with the likely Dana 24 case that's in the truck. I don't know what kind of hoops you'd have to jump through to get a CV style T-case yoke. You can always swap in an NP205 case and run CV yokes on it.

I'm not a fan of CV shafts. They're like a band-aid in a way. And an expensive one at that. High angle driveline is always hyped in magazines and on pirate4x4. Might try them or just ask a local driveline shop. I piggyback off a friends business account with a local driveline shop and get jobber price. They can make anything the heavily advertized places can and with the discount, it's about 1/2 the price of buying it from the fancy place.

[jakedaniel]

Sweet! It'll be a little while till I get to that point. I'm going to do all the paint work, a lot of the reassembly, and motor work, (basically everything else I can before), before the driveshafts. I'll definately use your hookup, anything to save a buck as long as it's still done right. The good thing is that I got an oversized carport to work on it instead of the 100 degree heat, a big yard to throw all the junk parts in so I'll piss off the neighbors, and time. I don't have to rush this one like I have all the rest of the cool cars I've owned and gotten rid of or wrecked like a fool. I can take the time to get this right. Oh, by the way. A friend of mine gave me 2 390 long blocks he had left over from when he had a couple of these old Fords. Guess I'll build the best one up and figure out what to do with the other one and the 360 the truck came with. Things just keep getting better and better.

[basketcase0302]

jake,

I agree with average on the driveline angle,(didn't see the pics before). Simple fix is to use some of the ford factory axle shims, (that will correct the angle at the axle). I've got a couple here somewhere

If it's a 24 case you can use the cv assembly from the 70's bronco, (owned one for 20 years, now it's a swamp buggy). Probably have to get the universal joint that switches from 1310 to 1330.

Good tool for this work is a digital caliper. Zero it to the case angle, then go to the driveline. Cheap tool $150 that can also be used for caster/camber tool later on.

Love the short wheelbase ford 4WD's! You can get places that the big guys can't

Basketcase

[jakedaniel]

Still got to get it down here. Between work and everything else I haven't towed it down yet. Hopefully this weekend. By the way, It is a 24 transfer case. Someone else mentioned something to me about using parts from a 70's Bronco. What parts would I need so I can start tracking them down and what exactly would I need to do. If you've got some of those axle shims I might just buy them off of you.

[jakedaniel]

Frame's been cut. When I went out there to buy it I had him show me where the work was done. You have to look pretty hard to see it but it's definatly cut. He never finished the truck up, though. The rear driveshaft is just hanging next to the pumpkin held up by wire for the pics.

[jbanks]

Well this truck has become part of my stable now. I bought it thinking I might split the parts up among other trucks and build me a beater 4x4. But I just can't go tearing this truck apart, it's too nice and needs to be done right.

I sure hope he sold some other parts or something to recoup his cost because he only got $600 from me. I love this thing and can't wait to get it going.

I recognized the driveline angle might be a problem. I might shim it or get a different driveline, not sure yet. It's not assembled enough to figure that out yet.

What's the concensus if the angle is too sharp? CV joint driveline? Shims? Different transfer case? I could even switch back to a LWB, but I really like the look of the SWB 4x4.

[averagef250]

You need to go mated tranny and t-case. The rear driveline angles will be pretty rough.

Funny how many different hands some projects pass through before they are finished.