Alternator question

Charging, starting, lighting, gauges, HVAC

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ICEMAN6166
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re: Alternator question

Post by ICEMAN6166 »

since it did not work, point is moot, but you can get them at the parts store and its not a big deal to fix.the wire gauge is on the rubber tag on the link, just a matter of getting the same one and soldering it on your harness.
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you can ford a river or stream and get to the other side, if you dodge it you will not, and if you drive a chevy to the levee it will run dry and the music will die.
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wildcard
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Post by wildcard »

Thanks, I had the alt and reg both double checked today. It keeps the batt charged enough to start the truck every time with no problem. Even after driving 50 miles to work you can kill it and it starts right back up. But it's not charging enough to run the lights. It always seems to be around 12 volts, even after driving for an hour.
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wildcard
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Post by wildcard »

Here's a dumb question. Friday night after I got the engine in and started home, my wife said my tail lights were flashing on and off. I also lost my left signal. Today I don't have any signals. And no blown fuses. Could a light wire problem cause it to not charge right? I do have one very short fuse that has no fire in either end, but it's not blown.
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Post by fordman »

i don't know but its worth checking out anyway. it could lead to something good.
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ICEMAN6166
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re: Alternator question

Post by ICEMAN6166 »

the taillights work off the circuit breaker in the headlight switch and do not have a separate fuse.usually all the lights, instrument, head and tail will flash when the headlight switch is going bad.
on my wifes stepside one of the brackets comes loose and causes that taillight to blink because of bad ground when loose.
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you can ford a river or stream and get to the other side, if you dodge it you will not, and if you drive a chevy to the levee it will run dry and the music will die.
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wildcard
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Post by wildcard »

Got the lights figured out. But still doesn't charge enough to run headlights.

Hopefully this weekend I can trace and check wires.
Jake11
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re: Alternator question

Post by Jake11 »

If you have a "voltmeter" and know how to use it, you can ck it out just
fine. First thing to test is the alternator. On the back side theres 3
lugs for wires. 1 big one and 2 little ones. The big one is the output
terminal. Goes direct to + battery. Hooks to a "fuselink" at the starter
solenoid. The other 2 terminals are "S" for stator, and "F" for field. They
are marked with a "s" and "f" on the alternator and voltage regulator.
Their easy to switch around by accident, so ck. that first.

To test an alternator on a running engine, you have to full field it. This
makes it go full output. To do this test, a jumper wire is connected to
the "F" or field terminal on the alt. and the other end briefly, just long
enough to see the reading on your voltmeter, hooked to + on battery.
Should get at least 15volts out of it. Might go to 19 or more. Don't do
this test very long. You'll cook the alt.

Good luck, KeithP
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