BobbyFord wrote:What is yor intended use for his truck?
A shop truck that gets attention for advertising purposes. Bed has to be useable and hold up to 2,000 pounds in batteries, get ok mileage (20+), and be reliable.
Uhhh... you realize this in an F100... you would be better off starting with a 250 if you eally want to support that weight effectively... the 9" itself isn't gonna like the weight.
I've driven with 2000 lbs in the bed of an F100 (dent) and an F250 (bump)... I will never do it in an F100 again...
As for the rest of it... have fun.
Got Ford?
2 EarlyBroncos (68,69)
2 Classic Mustangs (69,70)
1 F250 4x4 (71) - OB - 360, NP435, D24, HPD60 4.10, D60,
1 94 Ranger, 2.3, 5spd
1 Lincoln Mark VIII
71PA_Highboy wrote:Uhhh... you realize this in an F100... you would be better off starting with a 250 if you eally want to support that weight effectively... the 9" itself isn't gonna like the weight.
I've driven with 2000 lbs in the bed of an F100 (dent) and an F250 (bump)... I will never do it in an F100 again...
As for the rest of it... have fun.
My Bronco drives just fine with 2K in the back. It's on 37" tires and has more weight over the rear tires to begin with.
I wont be using the leaf spring setup in the rear. I could see those narrow things not liking weight.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
I started cleaning the bed out and was pleasantly surprised to it's condition. The inside is in very good shape, the tailgate even works well. I still need to pressure wash it out then start stripping the paint but I doubt I'll find any filler in there. I also started pulling the nasty interior out. All of it is glued with 3M spray adhesive so it's should be fun sanding / stripping all that off. I need to get the seat and the fuel tank out too. I'm worried about what I will find underneath the dash.
I also think I will build one piece side windows for this. I've never been a fan of vent windows and I've built 1pc stuff for 67-72 Chevy's before. I also installed a no-limit kit into a 49 Chevy pickup but it was just as much work as building my own. Has anyone done this on a 67-72 before? I'd like to keep the manual cranks but I'll go power if I have to.
There is a kit available for 1 piece door glass. I will be doing this with my truck as well. Something to consider they make switches for the pwr windows that take the crank handle. Looks like crank windows. I will look around for the link to the 1 piece window link. Not knowing the structure of the doors you have done the largest factor with these doors is the hinge mounting area. Before I know about the kit I was looking at swapping in newer hinge design and support so that I could remove the inner support for clearance.
EDIT: http://www.vintageglass.com/index.php This is who had it listed but I can not find information on their site now about the kit. Perhaps a phone call.
elgemcdlf wrote:There is a kit available for 1 piece door glass. I will be doing this with my truck as well. Something to consider they make switches for the pwr windows that take the crank handle. Looks like crank windows. I will look around for the link to the 1 piece window link. Not knowing the structure of the doors you have done the largest factor with these doors is the hinge mounting area. Before I know about the kit I was looking at swapping in newer hinge design and support so that I could remove the inner support for clearance.
EDIT: http://www.vintageglass.com/index.php This is who had it listed but I can not find information on their site now about the kit. Perhaps a phone call.
I've used the Autoloc switches to keep the factory crank in a 59 Chevy truck I did for a customer. My main want of keeping the manual crank windows was personal preference not in keeping the original look.
On the 67-72 Chevy truck I did the roof was chopped and I had issues with the window clearing the hinge area of the door. I ended up making a small triangle piece (about 3"x4") to fill the front part of the window area on the door and then made the window tilt as it slid down similar to a 88-97 Chevy truck.
Just took a look at the hinge design, I see what you are talking about.
Maybe someone makes new vent window stuff that is powder coated black... or maybe I can take it apart enough to get it powder coated myself. I really would like to get rid of all the chrome and stainless on this thing.
philofab wrote:Just took a look at the hinge design, I see what you are talking about.
Maybe someone makes new vent window stuff that is powder coated black... or maybe I can take it apart enough to get it powder coated myself. I really would like to get rid of all the chrome and stainless on this thing.
If I am not mistaken the '73-'79 door has a hinge that bolts on the outside of the door. I had thought about using the inner support structure from those doors with hinges & removing the hinge mounting area inside the '67-'72 style door.
Could you explain your reasoning building a 1/2 ton truck to haul 2000 pounds in the bed or why you're running a transmission without OD or LU behind an LS engine?
I guess a bed floor covered with batteries is a rather low center of gravity, but it's still a huge load for any 1/2 ton pickup frame.
averagef250 wrote:Could you explain your reasoning building a 1/2 ton truck to haul 2000 pounds in the bed or why you're running a transmission without OD or LU behind an LS engine?
I guess a bed floor covered with batteries is a rather low center of gravity, but it's still a huge load for any 1/2 ton pickup frame.
Because that is how I want to build it.
I regularly put 2K in my 93 Ford Ranger without issues.
averagef250 wrote:Could you explain your reasoning building a 1/2 ton truck to haul 2000 pounds in the bed or why you're running a transmission without OD or LU behind an LS engine?
I guess a bed floor covered with batteries is a rather low center of gravity, but it's still a huge load for any 1/2 ton pickup frame.
Because that is how I want to build it.
I regularly put 2K in my 93 Ford Ranger without issues.
Good thing I am wearin boots. Sorry but you're gonna have to show me a Ranger with 2K lbs in the bed. For that matter I want to see a Ranger with 1K lbs in the bed.