72 brake pedal & booster questions

Suspension, steering, brakes, wheels & tires

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ultraranger
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Re: 72 brake pedal & booster questions

Post by ultraranger »

Bryan_Tenn wrote:http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... ke+booster#

I'm still trying to figure out how to post pics here. Im used to doing it from my computer, not from a web address, anyway I dont know if this pic is gonna show up or not, but on OR's website the booster I have looks like this one. its for a 79 non cruise #50-3717

I said it curved down & hooked in the pic its curvrd up, same thing, my mistake, it moves lol

Anyway, will this type booster fit my brake pedal set-up? If not I need to know what will, I REALLY dont want to change out pedal assemblies. I read one of the articles on here & it sounded like a real PITA!

I plan on using the bracket & rod off this booster & using it as a core. Do I also need the plate it mounts to on the firewall? I assume I do, I will get it tomorrow. Theres a junkyard down the road from me, actually a collision shop, Ive known the guy all my life & he lets me get stuff cheap. I was very lucky that he had this, it was the only 70's Ford truck in his boneyard
The curved input rod MAY pose a problem in lining up with the pedal pin you have. The curve should point downward.

This is important to pedal ratio (leverage). A typical manual brake pedal ratio is around 6:1. A typical power brake pedal ratio should be around 4:1 --less leverage is needed with boosted brakes.

This was a problem with my booster and all-wheel drum brakes. The input rod of my booster is straight so, the pedal ratio was still what it was when I had manual brakes. My brakes were really sensitive so, I couldn't just jump on the brake pedal. I expect the sensitivity will be less with the front discs and, I installed a slightly larger MC bore from what I had. If you can't change the pedal ratio when installing a brake booster, one way to offset the high ratio is with a larger MC bore.

Your booster's input rod should advance in a straight line into the booster, when you apply the brake pedal. You don't want the input rod to side-load going into the booster.

If you install the booster and the input rod is kicked up when connected to the pin, you're going to need to move your pedal pin down, on the upright portion of the brake pedal --if there is room to do that, to make the rod sit level.

Mustang Steve (Steve Wilkes) has a pedal pin available.

http://www.mustangsteve.com/NewPedalPin.jpg

http://www.mustangsteve.com/BRAKES.html

You should get all the components from the donor associated to the booster you have. If you don't need it fine but, if you do need it and don't have it.....
Steve

1969 SWB F100 Ranger. 240-6, C-4, 9" N-case 31-spline Traction-Lok w/3.50 gears.

1968 Mustang. My high school car. Owned since 1982.

2003 Azure Blue Mustang Mach1.
Bryan_Tenn
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Re: 72 brake pedal & booster questions

Post by Bryan_Tenn »

ok, I was under the impression that the rod would turn so the curve would be up or down. I didnt pay that much attention to it, grabbed it off the truck, threw it in the shop & called it a day. I will look more closely in the morning
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