*UPDATE* No more current drain, but truck won't start

[bluef250]

New batteries off the shelf can be bad. Switch batteries between your trucks and see if this cures your problem.

[morganater]

Uh its done the same thing with 2 batteries.

[bluef250]

Two different batteries that you are sure a good? If your other (good) truck has a proven battery, try the new battery in the (good) truck and see what happens. If the new battery works in the (good) truck that you know is okay, carefully examine the positive cable for corrosion on the battery power eating truck. If the cable is corroded internally, power could go to ground or be eaten up by resistance under the right circumstances, yet might work under other. Sulfuric acid tends to eat copper, but there might not be enough conductor left to work during heavy loads (starting) and or charging.

[morganater]

the odds are really low on that one, does anyone else have any ideas

[jor]

Hey, Morgan, I think Willy has the right idea. Instead of buying/renting/swapping parts, do the diagnostics, one step at a time. It's a good learning experience and you will, in all probability, discover the problem.
jor

[hardtailjohn]

One thing that I've learned from years of working on aircraft and heavy trucks, is that when troubleshooting, it's best to do only one thing at a time and try that, then move to the next step. I also take a notebook out with me, to keep track of what I do, so there's no questions in my mind about what's been checked. That way you not only figure out what the real problem is, but you also don't waste a bunch of money on things you don't need after the fact.
I'd put a digital ammeter at the battery and with the key off, see what the current flow is (obviously there has to be some flow, or else your new battery is bad as well). Then I'd go to the fuse block and pull one fuse at a time, until the current flow drops off. At that time, you've isolated the basic problem area, and you can start disconnecting everything that's hooked on that circuit, one component at a time, until you figure out what
is the problem.
John H.

[oldschoolrods]

Ok, this problem really gets frustrating and pissed me off today . I replaced the voltage regulator with the one out of my 68, and Hooked up the battery to a charger, let ir charge for a bit and started the truck up. Idled fine, so i let it idle for 15 minutes or so. The truck's lights and dome light had a really fluctuating brightness between 600-900 RPM. Then after a short while, the lights started FLICKERING (including the dash lights and headlights). I then shut off the truck to try and start it again for the 3rd time on the small charge in the battery from being dead, and the batt. was dead again. There's no cliffs near my house.......

From what you describe to me it sounds like a bad alternator, have you had it tested or verified that your getting charge to begin with? Cause its kinda hard to hold a charge if your not getting one

[68F250]

I agree with oldschoolrods, you're alternator is bad (probably from the jump start in the beginning). Take it out and have any auto parts store test it for free. Flickering lights means you popped or shorted a diode. A shorted diode will drain the battery when not running.

[morganater]

Yeah, the flickering just arose recently. So you are saying my alternator is bad, and not only that but it has a messed up DIODE in it that is drawing the power, and draining the battery? If not so, where are their diodes I can check?

[shrektruck]

Wow!!
There sure is a lot of discussion over a simple current draw. I'm with Hardtail, Jor and Willy. Throwing parts at it doesn't always work but you can get a definite answer with a simple meter. I use a Fluke myself.
I had the same problem after someone stole the second battery out of the Shrektruck. I replaced the battery and it still drained whenever it sat.
Ran fine and started all day but never started in the morning. I spent about 10 minutes finding out that the creep who ripped out my battery also caused a short in my trailer brake switch-8 amps. No amount of batteries, regulators or alternators would have fixed this problem.
Replaced it and haven't had a problem since. Save yourself the headache and get the meter.
Matt

[oldschoolrods]

Yeah, the flickering just arose recently. So you are saying my alternator is bad, and not only that but it has a messed up DIODE in it that is drawing the power, and draining the battery? If not so, where are their diodes I can check?

The diodes are in the alternator. IMO its easier to have the alternator tested by a shop, and then replace if neccessary. I just checked, the autozone around here carries an alternator in stock for my 69 that runs about $28 with a $10 core charge. But before spending the money as everyone else has said, get it checked out or check it out.

[magnethead]

put a ammeter on the battery and start yanking fuses like hardtailjohn said. If you've yanked all the fuses and theres still a draw, disconnect the alternator from the battery.

If you have anything like a winch or stereo system that is tapped to the battery using a fuse not in the fuse block, yank that fuse too. If you have to, yank every friggin fuse in the truck you can reach.

[morganater]

Ok, well Now I have a good charge that has held for several days after replacing the voltage REgulator. Now, The truck wont start, because it acts like it doesn't have enough juice, yet will sit there with highbeams and domelight and fans on for a while (motor off of course), and they dont dim. I am wondering wtf is going on now, sorry for making this whole thread sound really nubbed out but i don't know the answers. Thanks guys

[bluef250]

Does starter solenoid chatter when key is turned to start? What all have you done?

[morganater]

Does starter solenoid chatter when key is turned to start? What all have you done?

YES! It will chatter clicking sounds if i turn the ignition half-way to start, otherwisewhen i turn the key all the way to start it will just crank barely like it has no juice. I dont think the starter is going bad, that is not what
the truck is doing, becuase I've had that happen before.

this is confusing me becuase all the other electronic accessories on the truck work fine and dont lose any power or anything. I have replaced the voltage regulator, and that seemed to have stopped the current draw. This problem seems like it could be a million things. Any ideas now, anyone?