390FE (406ci) for #50, built by Tom Lucas at FE Specialties.

[robroy]

Good afternoon!

To make the information in Interview Part A more accessible (and searchable), I made a complete transcript. It's now included right below the video on Page 10.

I'll be doing the same thing for Interview Part B next!

Thanks very much for the fantastic replies and ongoing interest!
Robroy

[robroy]

Good evening!

The transcript for the "Part B" interview video is now complete! I added it to the video post on Page 10.

Robroy

[Fordnatic]

Nice work, robroy!! I'll be looking fwd to the start-up/drive video!

[DuckRyder]

....I'll be looking fwd to the start-up/drive video!

And the chassis dyno tune video...

[Fordnatic]

Your Throwout bearing should be fine. It will eat a lot more dust on a dirt road than just sitting around. If the pilot bearing doesn't look like the seals will leak, it will be fine as well, but you know what kind of job it is to change it-so if you want to throw one in there just to be sure, then you can.

I don't have the varied experience of Tom, but I like Carter/Edelbrocks much better for the street than Holleys. Holleys may have the advantage on wide open power (though I don't know if I believe that), but the Edelbrocks are infinitely more tuneable for street use. You can adjust the mixture in any configuration by changing the springs and rods in combination with the jets. Holleys basically only have adjustments for idle and wide open, there is no way to adjust part throttle cruise mixture beyond what effect the idle mixture has, while you can get cruise mixture right on with the metering rods and springs on the Edelbrock. I have done most of my carb tuning at higher elevations (mile high lean air), so maybe that skews my experience some. With a Holley my pipes and plugs were always black, with the Carters I can get that nice light grey color you're looking for. I think the carb tuning books I had were from HP printing, can't remember the titles, but somewhere I have one for Carters and one for Holleys. You would really like reading them and learning about it all. Another thing to consider is that you will never have any fuel leaks with an Edelbrock, there are no gaskets below the fuel level unlike a Holley. Be careful adjusting the floats on a Holley as well, if not for a nearby fire extinguisher we would have burned up my friends 68 Camaro while adjusting the floats on his Holley.

[DuckRyder]

I'm not even going to get into the whole Holley vs Edelbrock thing AGAIN but if Tom says it will run best with a Holley on it, put a Holley on it...

The throwout bearing will be fine...

The pilot bearing I would probably replace considering the minimal cost and the fact it looks like it may have been damaged...

If you are going to have a FRAM that is probably the one to have... still about all I would do with it is see if it makes a different sound when it hits the bottom of the trash can...

[DuckRyder]

Oh, I probably would not worry about painting the back of the block, I would scrape the paint off of the bell-housing mating surface with a razor. Painting the area of the block inside the mating surface will not hurt anything though... (mine isn't painted there)

Flywheel, I'm conflicted...

I trust Toms advice and I'm sure he had good reason for recommending it, but Centerforce usually does a pretty good job...

[BobbyFord]

Take that bearing number and go to a local bearing supplier. We have one here that I been using for 20+ years and I bet that bearing isn't $16 for a quality Japanese or German bearing.

[DuckRyder]

I googled the bearing number, it is an expensive bearing.

US Bearings and Drives is selling one on amazon for 23.00...

If there is a local supplier it might save you shipping, but will tax cost just as much?

[DuckRyder]

Oh,

On the ARP exhaust bolts, check the length and make sure they will work, if not they will exchange them, but you have to call and send the old ones back (its a little cumbersome IMO) they know that the bolt kits don't work on every variation of the applications but will exchange bolts to take care of it.

[Ranchero50]

I'd reuse both bearings, SKF is a good name and the duty was light. If it spins free, no burbles that you can feel with your fingers as it goes around, and the seals have no dents you will be ok. The bearing only spins when the clutch is depressed in gear or when you are changing gears. Heck, it used the be a bushing.

Spend the $30 in a good dinner out with the wife, you both deserve one.

Jamie

[Alvin in AZ]

Take that bearing number and go to a local bearing supplier. We have one here that I been
using for 20+ years and I bet that bearing isn't $16 for a quality Japanese or German bearing.

x2 :)

And don't understand why the SKF from McMaster/Carr is so expensive anyway, heck it's only a ABEC-1.
As long as the seal is still in place, and it feels smooth-as-anything when you roll it, the bearing is ok. :)

Robroy, put the "funny looking side" in so you can't see it? ;)

Butthead in AZ
ps- 17mm x 47mm = 6303 ball bearing
pps- Read somewhere that FT's used those at some point in the past. {shrug}
ppps- And I was having an "oil-lite bearing being wallered out in no time" problem, so... tried a 6303.

[Alvin in AZ]

"Robroy, put the "funny looking side" in so you can't see it?"
"...my mind's eye has amazingly powerful X-Ray vision and would see it just the same! :)"
I fiNgured as much! LOL :)

I bought an MRC 303SZZ bearing ...Argentina...
Robroy

Argentina, Germany, what's the difference? ;)

Like Ranchero said, it's a light duty application for spinning but kinda
"rough side-hammering loads" according to a website I read about it.
The bearing quality isn't the problem, it's the side-hammering the pilot
takes. The 6303 is hell for strong on the hammering part! :) I put a
flimsy little 6003 in my 351w as a test, theoretically it's not supposed
to hold up to the side-hammering-like loads so good. We'll see huh? :)

Alvin in AZ
ps-
17mm x 35mm x 10mm = 6003
17mm x 40mm x 12mm = 6203 <- most common ball bearing in the world! :)
17mm x 47mm x 14mm = 6303
6203 is the front bearing in an alternator and inside most belt-idlers etc
pps- Don't know why some outfits want to leave the "6" off? :/

[DuckRyder]

Google (or Bing) "MRC Bearings".

It appears they are owned by SKF.

I usually look for Timken or SKF but an SKF by another name is fine by me.

SKF is a OEM for many of the German Car Companies (possibly US ones too)

Funny I was getting bearings for the front wheels on the F100 and they guy was like "You want US or Chinese?" Me "US", him "They are twice as much", me "They will last twice as long...", him "thats true"....

[BobbyFord]

ANYTHING but a Chinese bearing.