Chassis Swap (1972 onto a 2002 Chassis)

[FoPAR]

With the buying and parting out I know I'm ahead but I was wondering how much so I worked it all out this after noon and not to bad so far.

Project Budget


Bought 77 Lincoln Mark V -$300.00
sold wheels & tires $40.00
sold rear end $200.00
scrap run $67.00
scrap run $87.00
scrap run $108.00
Total From Lincoln $202.00

Bought 2002 F-150 -$500.00
sold engine $200.00
sold trany $200.00
sold tailgate (damaged) $25.00
recycled catalytic converters $115.00
mis. Interior parts $45.00
grill $40.00
rear bumper (damaged) $15.00
front bumper $50.00
Total From F-150 $190.00

Sold from shop/home
sold air compressor $175.00
sold wheels & tires $125.00
scrap run from shop $125.00
Total From Shop $425.00

Total From Lincoln $202.00
Total From F-150 $190.00
Total From Shop $425.00
Total $817.00
welding supplys -$60.00
cut off wheels & blades -$40.00
1/8" plate 12" x 8' -$60.00
4" x 20' "C" channel -$98.00
460 engine mounts -$60.00
pneumatic hole punch -$40.00
shop supplies -$95.00
Total Parts / Supplies $364.00 left over


And I still have all these parts up for sale:


For Sale / 2002 F-150 Price
Door (drivers side) complete $200.00
Door (passenger) complete $200.00
Rear door (drivers side) $150.00
Rear door (passenger side) $150.00
Hood $200.00
Drivers side Fender $75.00
passenger side Fender $75.00
Rear Slider window $125.00

For Sale / 1972 Ford Price
Wheels & Tires $250.00
Edelbrock 360 intake $100.00
Edelbrock 600 carb $100.00

So this project so far hasn't cost me a dime I’m in the positive $364.00 ...... now I'm just wondering where is it I better go check the wife’s purse

[fbomb100]

With the buying and parting out I know I'm ahead but I was wondering how much so I worked it all out this after noon and not to bad so far.

Project Budget


Bought 77 Lincoln Mark V -$300.00
sold wheels & tires $40.00
sold rear end $200.00
scrap run $67.00
scrap run $87.00
scrap run $108.00
Total From Lincoln $202.00

Bought 2002 F-150 -$500.00
sold engine $200.00
sold trany $200.00
sold tailgate (damaged) $25.00
recycled catalytic converters $115.00
mis. Interior parts $45.00
grill $40.00
rear bumper (damaged) $15.00
front bumper $50.00
Total From F-150 $190.00

Sold from shop/home
sold air compressor $175.00
sold wheels & tires $125.00
scrap run from shop $125.00
Total From Shop $425.00

Total From Lincoln $202.00
Total From F-150 $190.00
Total From Shop $425.00
Total $817.00
welding supplys -$60.00
cut off wheels & blades -$40.00
1/8" plate 12" x 8' -$60.00
4" x 20' "C" channel -$98.00
460 engine mounts -$60.00
nuematic hole punch -$40.00
shop supplies -$95.00
Total Parts / Supplies $364.00 left over


And I still have all these parts up for sale:


For Sale / 2002 F-150 Price
Door (drivers side) complete $200.00
Door (passenger) complete $200.00
Rear door (drivers side) $150.00
Rear door (passenger side) $150.00
Hood $200.00
Drivers side Fender $75.00
passenger side Fender $75.00
Rear Slider window $125.00

For Sale / 1972 Ford Price
Wheels & Tires $250.00
Edelbrock 360 intake $100.00
Edelbrock 600 carb $100.00

So this project so far hasn't cost me a dime I’m in the positive $364.00 ...... now I'm just wondering where is it I better go check the wife’s purse

that,s the way to do it,, your truck getting done and your parts for free..

[FoPAR]

Heck yeah! parting out vehicles has been great for me so far, I've always turned a profit and ended up with free parts then. I just had a guy call for the drivers side door he's supposed to come and get it after work

[FoPAR]

Ok so a million or two tack welds later and I have the the bed almost all welded up. Now I need to grind them smooth and see how much body work needs to be done to make them look good. Sorry no new pic's yet......

[67mann]

Heck yeah! parting out vehicles has been great for me so far, I've always turned a profit and ended up with free parts then. I just had a guy call for the drivers side door he's supposed to come and get it after work

At those prices....whats down there for 05 and newer parts..... I've not been to kind to my 05xlt Need from grill to bed sheet metal

Good job on the budget

[FoPAR]

Here are a few pic's of how the bed has turned out so far....









I cleaned out the seam sealer along both sides and started to tack it togther also. I still need to cut out the 4" on the other end and then notch the bed rails so it will sit lower. oh and fill all the holes that are everywhere.







and a few shots inside the bed

[FoPAR]

I finally have a short bed bump! I completed the cut down and tacking it back together. Now I just need to weld the inside part of the bed and then I can flip it over and finally notch the bed rails like I've been talking about.

Here's a before and after shot.



and after




and then a few pic's in between










I also welded up most of the holes and started on the passenger side welding up the bed seem.

[marvin2]

You're moving right along!...keep up the good work.

[FoPAR]

nothing new on the 72 to report, but I did sell some more parts off the 2002. Fenders hood drivers door and air bags. So more $$ for the project with the air bags gone I pulled the dash out and got that out of the way. It has a very interesting adjustable brake and gas pedal set up wonder if it would work in the 72?

[tylerb43]

FoPAR - Awesome progress man, I love the updates, keep it rolling!

One note on the bed - are you sure you can take that much out of the floor channels? I had a thought Since you're obviously not intimidated by metalwork, what about raising the bed floor? Classic Trucks did this on their '68 F100 a few years ago to clear a c-notched rear frame. They went up 5 inches. I thought it was pretty ingenious and turned out looking pretty cool. The only down side I could see was the "ledge" when you open your tailgate. Well anyway, looking at your project, I just remembered the article, so I looked it up for you to reference:

http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0801c ... index.html

Again, great work buddy!

[FoPAR]

Yeah that's one solution to the problem and I've been thinking about it a lot, but not sure about the lip when the tail gate is down I'm still going to use it as a truck and I'm not sure how that would affect sliding things in and out. Thanks for the link though it is really nice to see a "how to" on it and if I'm left with no other options I will need to follow what they did. You guys have been great and really do appreciate the ideas and tips

[FoPAR]

Alright so back to work on it today. I started the mock up of the c notch in the bed rails, marked all the frame cross members on the channel and cut them out.
You can see I have a lot to work around with this X shaped cross member.



Then flipped the bed and lined up the marks I had made when it was on the frame. Checked everything and then started cutting.





I got the first beam in and then started on the 2nd one. I also split the end bed rail so I could utilize the front bed mount location on the frame and also reinforce the bed end.













Got both beams in and you can see I will need to make a new cross member for the middle after I cut the heck out of the stock one so it will clear the “x” cross member.






Ok so new cross member done and both end bed mount locations are cut and placed in their now spot. I will need to put small extensions on each side of the new middle cross support so it goes all the way across.





I’m also thinking about cutting a small section out of the long rails so if it’s ever gets rear ended the bed can compress and the rails won’t act like spears and get shoved through the cab.



This looks like it will give me a 2-1/4" drop for the bed, but we will have to see once it's all tacked it.



Anyway I will need to clean all the rust and paint off everything and then start tacking it in for the first test fit.

[FoPAR]

Fits Like A Glove!



well maybe not…..



fits almost like a glove….



The drivers side is really close to fitting but the passenger side is a bit off. Both sides are hanging up just a little, but some grinding should take care it.





as you can see the passenger side is hitting and has about a ¾” gap but the drivers side is only about 3/8” off





Also the rear cross member needs a little trim and then rear of the bed will drop about 3/8”



but over all not to bad for the first test fit

[basketcase0302]

Excellent job on the build so far, (I especially like the short bed).
I also like the excellent documentation you're doing, (I did the same on my build). It's priceless to share it with those here who might want to do the same in the future.
Keep up the good work!

[tylerb43]

So with some tweaking to get those gaps out, you think it'll drop down and be near right on??!! That just seems like it was too easy. It was easy from where I'm sitting - ha! Even if it's not perfect, it's close enough you could shim up the cab to get the lines dead on. Gotta say, I had my doubts you'd ever get it to drop that much, but that looks damn good, man. Damn good!

Awesome work!