MLJJONES67 PROJECT CUMMINS put away for winter

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mljjones67
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re: mljjones67 project update

Post by mljjones67 »

So there is a timing housing then a cover on top?
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re: mljjones67 project update

Post by mljjones67 »

double post :D
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Post by averagef250 »

Give it a good look over once you get it home. Theres a stamped steel cover over an aluminum housing. The steel cover may be OK, but if it's bent badly I'd replace it since it may cause the front seal to leak more than it should. Cummins are definitely leakers if everything isn't perfect.

The timing covers and housings are specific to which type of injection pump the engine has. Your engine has the Bosch VE rotary style injection pump. The rotary pump has 3 studs that hold it on. The CAV pump (on stationary equipment engines) also uses the same 3 stud mounting. What will not work is any timing cover from an inline P7100 series bosch injection pump engine or any cover from a 24 valve engine with a VP44 pump or newer.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
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Post by mljjones67 »

Well I guess a turbo upgrade will come in time too!
I want to shoot for 300 hp and I think 700 ftlbs torque.
What turbo do you suggest?
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re: mljjones67 project update

Post by mljjones67 »

What will be the best way to drop the cross member up front? I know I need to go 2". Will it be better to fab a new one? I hate the way the fordcummins did theirs looks trashy.
Now on the zf s542 do I need the closed or open ratio from a diesel. I have been looking on destroked and they sell their adapter plates that are made to fit a Power stroke starter with a little bit of clearancing of the block. Is that the only way to go?
I know we talked about the best year for the zf but i cant remember. What year was it?

Thanks Dustin for all your help
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Post by averagef250 »

The stock 95+ HX35 turbo works pretty good.

There are tons of transmissions that will bolt up to what you have. If you plan to make 700 lb/ft you can rule out all but 2 of them. The only two that will hold the power and allow you to run a 13" clutch that'll sorta hold that power are the diesel or the 460 version of the ZF. The 460 version is wide ratio. The diesel is close ratio.

My advice is go with the diesel version. The wide ratio gas version works, it's essentially the same ratios dodge used in their NV4500's, but the Ford diesel ratios are real nice, especially for towing. The more of these swaps I do the more I really see how important the ratios are with a stick. Turbodiesels don't make boost unless they're loaded. Sh*tty ratio transmissions won't keep the engine loaded in it's happy place. All other things being equal, two identicle trucks one with a wide ratio 5 speed and one close ratio, the close ratio setup will pull a lot harder and use less fuel.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
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Post by mljjones67 »

ok thanks Now time to find one!!
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re: mljjones67 project update

Post by James72 »

Don't forget to ditch that valve cover too :lol:
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Post by averagef250 »

Forgot the other part of your question, yes, the destroked plates are the best way to go unless by some fluke you can find a factory cummins plate(they did make them). Grinding the block isn't a big deal. You just need to slice a sliver off the bottom edge of the block where the pan mounts up. You have to do this because the Ford starter hole in the tranny is right there where that piece on the block is. You have to use the Ford starter because if you use any other starter the nose is too long and you'll have to grind the crap out of your bellhousing to fit the starter nose in there.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
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re: mljjones67 project update

Post by mljjones67 »

Did high pinions come in all the 78 79 ford f-250's?
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Post by averagef250 »

Yep, 77.5, 78 and 79 had high pinion front axles.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
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Post by mljjones67 »

Sweet I am looking at picking up a 78 truck for $400.
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Post by 1971ford »

hey, i saw you mentioned maybe some prerunnner like fenders...

check this whole thread out:
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25270
-Ryan
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Post by mljjones67 »

Would a 2" body lift help or hurt the cross member issue?
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Post by averagef250 »

You don't need a body lift. If you sat the engine 2" higher in the frame you'd just create more problems. The engine fits fine, you just need to modify/replace the factory crossmember.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
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