1968 F-100 Ranger

[dcbullet]

Just a quick update here. I haven't yet decided whether to replace the bumper with a step or sport bumper, so in the meantime I decided to improve the look of the existing bumper. I used a 3M paint and rust remover pad to remove any flaky rust and chrome. I used Krylon Rust Tough enamel in Aluminum color.

I think it turned out pretty good. I still want to get a chrome bumper at some point because this one is bent down, which is hard to see from this angle.

BEFORE:



AFTER:

[layedout72]

very nice update on the bumper!

[dcbullet]

I decided to do the disc brake conversion. I had been going back and forth on this because honestly, my drum brakes worked great! But, I did need to replace all the bushings on the front end and also replace the king pins, since I had some play there. So I figured that at the end of the day all I would be out in incremental costs is the cost of the junkyard parts, which around here ran $300.

I've included some discussion of some pretty basic stuff, but I do that because when I'm a beginner on things, I like to see everything layed out for me. So in case there are any beginners, hopefully they can learn something. By the way, this site was an invaluable resource for this project.

On to the pictures.

NOTE: All the pictures are clickable to larger views.

Here is my 38 year old drum brake front end.







My driver's side radius arm bushing was in really bad shape, basically I had a couple of inches of play.





Here's after I removed the front end. Removal was simple, just a few bolts and it's off. The biggest PITA honestly was removing some of the old cotter pins on the radius arm bolts.



This is the disk brake front end I got off of a 77 F-150 at a pick n pull. This truck was in GREAT shape. All the bolts came off with no problem, no gallons of grease or pounds of rust. If only my truck was in this good condition. In fact, the rotors and brake pads were in very good shape as well so I decided to use them.



To disassemble the calipers you need to first collapse the caliper like so:



Then, after removing the bolt below the clip, you can drive out the clip which holds the caliper to the spindle and the caliper will come right off.



I don't own an air compressor so I use an abrasive pad on my drill to strip all my parts. This takes a long time. But I can get the parts to this condition.



After doing that will all the parts I paint with Krylon Rust Tough. Here's all the painted parts along with all the new parts I purchased. I got all new steering linkages as well and painted them grey to do something different. I have parts here from all over the world, China, Japan, Thailand, Malaysia, Korea, and yes, even some from the good ole USA.

[dcbullet]

I purchased a bearing race driver finally and MAN, what a difference it makes. Bearing races take literally 3 seconds to drive in.



The other tool That came in handy was my electric impact wrench. As I mentioned I have no air compressor, but this wrench did the trick in removing the radius arm-to-ibeam bolts as well as the pitman arm bolt.



Here is the king pin set.



And the spindle after installation.





To install the brake pads and caliper, first lay the inner pad against the spindle. Make sure you put your anti-rattle clip on.



Then lay the caliper on the spindle along with the outer pad.



lift up the caliper slightly and drive in the clip and it's spring to hold on the caliper.



Install the bolt that holds the clip in place and you're done.



You need to install the disc brake master cylinder with this conversion. I installed a new one which required bench bleeding. I used some old lines from my truck to loop back into the reseviors. Then I just used a screwdriver to plunge master cylinder about 20 times.



After that it was just installing the steering linkage and the project was complete. Here are some pictures of the finished product.



Some nice stainless steal bolts.









The difference in the handling is amazing. I can finally drive down the highway without weaving all over the place.

Braking power isn't really different, like I mentioned, my drum brakes worked great. But in the event I'm ever in water or driving down a long mountain, the performance will be noticable there.

[layedout72]

you sure all that stuff isnt new?!?!? haha looks awesome man! Any good pics of the INSTALL would be MUCH appreciated.

[dcbullet]

I also think my original springs were sagging a bit. The springs from the F-150 seem to bring the front of the truck up 3/4 of an inch or so, which I think gives the truck the proper stance.

[Clarko]

Lookin great!

[Barneys72]

dcbullet

Where did you get the hubcaps. I've been looking for a nice set of those for my truck. I'm actually just trying to refrub the ones I have.

[spartman]

That is looking good.

You made the replacement on the front look WAY TO EASY!!

[dcbullet]

dcbullet

Where did you get the hubcaps. I've been looking for a nice set of those for my truck. I'm actually just trying to refrub the ones I have.

I got them on ebay. They don't repop them.

Thanks.

[QC]

Great documentation! Did you have to make a bracket to mount the proportioning valve down there? I would like to mount mine down on the frame somewhere to get it out of the engine compartment.

[dcbullet]

Great documentation! Did you have to make a bracket to mount the proportioning valve down there? I would like to mount mine down on the frame somewhere to get it out of the engine compartment.

Thanks!

The truck I got it off of had the prop valve mounted in that location so I got that bracket.

It was a very simple bracket though.

[QC]

Mine came with a bracket to mount it on top of the steering box under the m/cyl, but it gets in the way of the p/s hoses and kind of fills up that side of the engine compartment. I think I'll make a bracket and mount it about where the '69 one is on the frame. I kind of stalled on this project but reading your post got me inspired again. I've been collecting parts for almost a year to go from manual drum to power dics. I have them all now, I just have to put them on.

[Big D's 69]

Man you do some nice work. NIce pics of before and after. Keep up the good work and nice progress.

[dcbullet]

Mine came with a bracket to mount it on top of the steering box under the m/cyl, but it gets in the way of the p/s hoses and kind of fills up that side of the engine compartment. I think I'll make a bracket and mount it about where the '69 one is on the frame. I kind of stalled on this project but reading your post got me inspired again. I've been collecting parts for almost a year to go from manual drum to power dics. I have them all now, I just have to put them on.

Yeah, I like it better on the crossmember as well, for keeping the engine compartment tidy.