'68 F250 Crew Cab 4x4 Short Box - Cummins!

[hivewax]

I did not touch the closed off knuckle seals, which I think you are referring to the big ball joints at the axle ends. I didn't see any leaks other than the pinion seal. Does the differential fluid flow to these closed off knuckle seals? Do you recommend changing them out? Thanks for the help.

Other than a new pinion seal, the only thing I did to the front axle is pack the wheel bearings with grease.

[hivewax]

Drove the truck around to get a feel for it... got use to beginning in 2nd gear and not 1st gear (granny tow gear). Then, filled up the whole in-cab tank with premium gas. After that, went to the cheapest place I could find to put the new BFG tires on... paid $42. I think that's cheap since the rear lug nuts were frozen on there real good. They had to spray WD-40 on them, let sit, and use a impact gun, which I don't have yet... I used a HF 1/2" breaker bar and cheater pipe for the front lug nuts! (Broke a HF 3/8" breaker bar first). Need to take the blue film off the white lettering, so I can take some pictures.

Some issues that popped up:
1. Truck rattles in 4th gear. The 4WD shifter rattles and taps against the thru-hole. It might be the missing bushing in the tie rod steering arm I still haven't fixed.
2. Power steering is either shooting out of the dip stick hole or out of a hose onto the inner fender. I might of over-filled the pump canister.
3. One in-between leaf is missing half of its body in the rear driver side leaf spring assembly. I think both rear leaf springs are severely rusted and cannot be saved. I need to show pictures of them, then decide if I should replace them.

[hivewax]

Here are the new BFG tires. They look puny and the white lettering isn't growing on me... I'll take another picture of the whole truck.



Headlights are working! I had to replace the fried ground wires at the radiator core support. The floor dimmer switch was frozen from rust and was replaced with an AutoLite version. There were 2 headlight switches and only one is good... mounting to the dash was a PITA. More info - http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =8&t=64749

The only major electrical projects not finished is the front parking sockets need replacing and the horn isn't working.

Next project now... swapping in a 12V Cummins or buying air compressor to start sandblasting and priming the body. Slowly but surely...

[1972hiboy]

I dig the white lettering. looking forward to watching your progress....your definatly bringing it back to life one piece at a time.

[hivewax]

Thanks! In the future, I will definitely go to a taller and little wider tire like some here have done... 35" or 37" tires on some new wheels. By the way, what are the dimensions of a 35" and 37" tire (example: 265/85R16)?

I'm seriously thinking of using this truck as a daily driver and finding ways to save gas. I think the least expensive and quick is getting a MSD Atomic EFI or something similar that can be knocked out in a few days. I'd love to just take it to a diesel mechanic that can drop in a Cummins... need to make some calls on that.

I cannot have the truck sitting in the driveway for months working on it by myself in disrepair. I can only do a section at a time.

Any knowledgeable input would be great on adding EFI or going the Cummins route. Is the Cummins best long term (I'd think so)? MPG for each? Topic - http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =3&t=64994

[FormerMarine1981]

Skinny tires will save you gas money. Takes less power to spin them than tires that have more surface contact with the road. I agree wider tires Look better though.

[hivewax]

This set I have on now would be for daily driving. For showing off, I rotate to a newer set of wheels with bigger tires.

[hivewax]

Add or critique the TO-DO list:

- check DANA 44 knuckle seals
- replace slow leaking master cylinder brake lines
- replace minor leaking DANA 60 rear pinion seal
- remove trailer brake switch and lines
- fix non-op TEMP gauge
- drag link ball joint rubber bushing missing NAPA $80!, lube ZERK fittings (need needle adapter)
- replace/fix rear leaf springs
- fix power steering fluid spitting onto inner fender
- need side view mirrors
- change to '67 sunvisor mount rearview mirror ('65-66 Mustang alternative)
- fix non-op park lights
- fix horn
- add speedometer cable or go electric speedometer later until new transmission
- electric fan
- replace 2.25" exhaust pipes, add mufflers or hold off until new motor
- fix window cranks
- fix bench seat track or bucket seats
- fix parking brake cables or drive-line brake
- buy air compressor
- remove inner fenders rust; 67-79 donor or front roll cage - chromoly $$?!
- replace rusted radiator core support; 67-79 donor or front roll cage - chromoly $$?!
- remove roof rust, weld
- remove floor rust, weld
- remove cowl + firewall rust, weld
- remove door rust, weld
- remove bed rust or scrap; rear roll cage bed - chromoly $$?!
- remove stock antenna, fill weld hole
- hood lock
- add spare tire rack; junkyard
- add saddle tanks; junkyard
- hydro-boost brake system
- kill switch
- A/C
- match ignition key; pin mod
- headlight harness upgrade
- alarm
- utility roll-bar if there's a stock bed
- dual battery setup
WISH list:
- on-board air compressor
- GPS tracking
- winch
- 2.5 ton Rockwell axles
- wheels; double bead-locks

[1972hiboy]

agreed with the taller skinnier tire. it will save you gas and keep the steering easy. ( im assuming you have manual steering too) id try looking for a 7.00xr16 or a 9.00xr16. I picked up a set of 9.00xr16 tires and they are about 36 inches tall and nice and skinny.

[hivewax]

#1 done. Now, on to #5.

1. check DANA 44 12-bolt knuckles
2. replace slow leaking master cylinder brake lines
3. replace minor leaking DANA 60 rear pinion seal
4. remove trailer brake switch and lines
5. fix non-op TEMP gauge
6. drag link ball joint rubber bushing missing NAPA $80!, lube ZERK fittings (need needle adapter)
7. replace/fix rear leaf springs
8. fix power steering fluid spitting onto inner fender
9. need side view mirrors
10. change to '67 sunvisor mount rearview mirror ('65-66 Mustang alternative)
11. fix non-op park lights
12. fix horn
13. add speedometer cable or go electric speedometer later until new transmission
14. swap in electric fan
15. replace 2.25" exhaust pipes, add mufflers or hold off until new motor
16. fix window cranks
17. fix bench seat track or bucket seats
18. fix parking brake cables or drive-line brake
19. buy air compressor
20. remove inner fenders rust; 67-79 donor or front roll cage - chromoly $$?!
21. replace rusted radiator core support; 67-79 donor or front roll cage - chromoly $$?!
22. remove roof rust, weld
23. remove floor rust, weld
24. remove cowl + firewall rust, weld
25. remove door rust, weld
26. remove bed rust or scrap; rear roll cage bed - chromoly $$?!
27. remove stock antenna, fill weld hole
28. hood lock
29. add spare tire rack; junkyard
30. add saddle tanks; junkyard
31. hydro-boost brake system
32. kill switch
33. A/C
34. match ignition key; pin mod
35. headlight harness upgrade
36. alarm
37. utility roll-bar if there's a stock bed
38. dual battery setup
38a. add radio
WISH list:
39. on-board air compressor
40. GPS tracking
41. winch
42. 2.5 ton Rockwell axles
43. wheels; double bead-locks

[hivewax]

Today took some shots of the truck. Body hasn't not been touched yet. Only visually changes are removing side mirrors, brake light moldings, side hood emblems, and new tires.

[nastys toys]

Really like the truck I to seen this listed for sale awhile ago can I ask how much it was to be delivered from Oregon to Florida? I'm in pa and have been seeing some cars out that way I'm interested in and want to price transport fees I'm doin a 71 ford crew 4x4 build now mine is as bad or worse condition as yours was I could put my foot through the floor and touch the ground my rear drivers leaf pack rusted completely through and snapped them in half I removed half the of the pack from each frame mount could you help me out I need to know the distance from the rear if the frame rail to center of rear axle need the measurement like if you Hung a plum bob from the frame to the center of the axle and measure the distance from the rear if frame and where the axle line meet hope that makes sense

[jbanks]

Curious what you gave for that truck. Looks nice. I'm looking for one myself. Just missed out on one in Portland that i'm kicking myself over.

[hivewax]

I've been going to work in the truck for the past 2 weeks.

It runs and rattles. There are no major leaks. Cops haven't pulled me over with missing mirrors yet!

I don't have the speedometer hooked up, but the truck seems very slow... seems I'm driving like 50mph on the highway. Is that normal? I have the mufflers off... I guess being slow is a good thing because the drum brakes need to go.

[1972hiboy]

my 72 with the np435 and 4:11's loves 50-55 mph on the highway so your probably right in there. Are you running manual drum? Thats what ive got and when I first got my truck is was horrible to stop that thing. Once I went through them though with new shoes and getting the drums turned and what not it really increased its stopping power. I mean its no power brakes but its really not to bad.