Rusty, the 1970 F-100
Moderator: FORDification
- DuckRyder
- Moderator
- Posts: 4925
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2004 3:04 pm
- Location: Scruffy City
- Contact:
Re: Rusty, the 1970 F-100
You can buy new transmission hard lines from NPD or Inline tube.
Looking good on the other stuff...
Looking good on the other stuff...
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
- redstone65
- New Member
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:50 am
- Location: Birmingham, AL
Re: Rusty, the 1970 F-100
Thanks for the heads up. I was going to make my own with some Nicopp line but for $65 it doesn’t really pay to DIY it I guess.DuckRyder wrote:You can buy new transmission hard lines from NPD or Inline tube.
Looking good on the other stuff...
- redstone65
- New Member
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:50 am
- Location: Birmingham, AL
fuel line...
Now that the gas tank is installed it was time to run the fuel line. I bought a 25' roll of 5/16" Nicopp:
...and also a flaring tool since I didn't own one. The flaring tool I got was this one from NAPA:
...and it did a really good job. It's not a bench top tool. It's meant to be able to flare in place and it did a fine job of that. The only downside is that I bought it for like $89 and I just saw it's now $58 like 4 days later. Evidently it's just a house-branded Cal-Van set, the same as this one. But, I like to buy local. I'm not really an Amazon kind of guy unless I just can't find it locally.
First thing we did was pull the old line out. The line from the tank to the frame rail was easy. But that line going down the frame rail got really tough as it passed behind the steering box. It flexes out away from the frame rail and passes right between two brake lines:
With much cursing and yanking and hammering I finally got it all out:
Then I had to figure out how to run the new line back through that same route. After much staring and exploring, I finally found an alternate route that was much easier. There is a notch where the cross member fits to the top of the frame rail and it was just big enough for the 5/16 line I was using:
We bubble flared the line at the engine side and hose clamped some fuel hose to the fuel pump:
With the engine part done, we moved back to the tank side. I showed my son how to flare the line and let him do it:
Then we tag teamed the bending and got it in decent shape:
Not perfect, but it looks ok. And, most importantly, it works!!
Sure does make things easier having a static source of gas.
...and also a flaring tool since I didn't own one. The flaring tool I got was this one from NAPA:
...and it did a really good job. It's not a bench top tool. It's meant to be able to flare in place and it did a fine job of that. The only downside is that I bought it for like $89 and I just saw it's now $58 like 4 days later. Evidently it's just a house-branded Cal-Van set, the same as this one. But, I like to buy local. I'm not really an Amazon kind of guy unless I just can't find it locally.
First thing we did was pull the old line out. The line from the tank to the frame rail was easy. But that line going down the frame rail got really tough as it passed behind the steering box. It flexes out away from the frame rail and passes right between two brake lines:
With much cursing and yanking and hammering I finally got it all out:
Then I had to figure out how to run the new line back through that same route. After much staring and exploring, I finally found an alternate route that was much easier. There is a notch where the cross member fits to the top of the frame rail and it was just big enough for the 5/16 line I was using:
We bubble flared the line at the engine side and hose clamped some fuel hose to the fuel pump:
With the engine part done, we moved back to the tank side. I showed my son how to flare the line and let him do it:
Then we tag teamed the bending and got it in decent shape:
Not perfect, but it looks ok. And, most importantly, it works!!
Sure does make things easier having a static source of gas.
- timachone
- New Member
- Posts: 114
- Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2018 3:36 am
- Location: Germany (Europe)
Re: Rusty, the 1970 F-100
That looks great - congratz! And it works best, that's the main thing
Very cool that your son is helping you out
That's what are my plans, too, although he is only 4 years old... But he is very excited about helping and I will sure find something he can do and I can teach him...
Very cool that your son is helping you out
That's what are my plans, too, although he is only 4 years old... But he is very excited about helping and I will sure find something he can do and I can teach him...
Tim
1970 Ford F250 360 FE 2V C6
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V 4-speed
2012 Ford S-Max 2.0 EB AT
2017 Skoda Fabia Monte Carlo MT
1970 Ford F250 360 FE 2V C6
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V 4-speed
2012 Ford S-Max 2.0 EB AT
2017 Skoda Fabia Monte Carlo MT
- redstone65
- New Member
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:50 am
- Location: Birmingham, AL
Re: Rusty, the 1970 F-100
Thanks Tim!timachone wrote:That looks great - congratz! And it works best, that's the main thing
Yeah, it's been a good project for us so far. He's doing a good job learning this stuff. In some cases we're learning together. I grew up working on cars, but a ground up restore like this one is new for me. I had never done an engine swap before.
Good call getting your son involved real young. It's more important than ever (IMO) for young'uns to learn trade skills.
- timachone
- New Member
- Posts: 114
- Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2018 3:36 am
- Location: Germany (Europe)
Re: Rusty, the 1970 F-100
redstone65 wrote: Good call getting your son involved real young. It's more important than ever (IMO) for young'uns to learn trade skills.
Yeah, that's my opinion, too, Dave It makes me happy when they are interested in learning and repairing things. What else could be more great if your kids are interested in fathers hobby... I put my 1-year-old little girl yesterday on the bench seat and she was standing there, proud of herself, laughing all over her face and whiggling the big steering wheel like a pro - that was heart-warming, so cute.
It's our mission to give our kids the legacy of our knowledge and to share time much as possible... Who else could drive our trucks in the future
Tim
1970 Ford F250 360 FE 2V C6
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V 4-speed
2012 Ford S-Max 2.0 EB AT
2017 Skoda Fabia Monte Carlo MT
1970 Ford F250 360 FE 2V C6
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V 4-speed
2012 Ford S-Max 2.0 EB AT
2017 Skoda Fabia Monte Carlo MT
- redstone65
- New Member
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:50 am
- Location: Birmingham, AL
Re: Rusty, the 1970 F-100
Love that!timachone wrote: It's our mission to give our kids the legacy of our knowledge and to share time much as possible... Who else could drive our trucks in the future
- Idaho Chris
- New Member
- Posts: 178
- Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2018 9:08 pm
- Location: Bonners Ferry, ID
Re: Rusty, the 1970 F-100
^^^^^Me too. We'd all be a lot better off if more parents shared your mission!redstone65 wrote:Love that!timachone wrote: It's our mission to give our kids the legacy of our knowledge and to share time much as possible... Who else could drive our trucks in the future
-Chris
1969 F250 4x4 4spd 300 I6
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C
1969 F250 4x4 4spd 300 I6
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C
- hfdco4
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1312
- Joined: Mon Apr 01, 2013 1:45 pm
Re: Rusty, the 1970 F-100
First, great work. Looking real good.
Second, have you used that flaring tool to do brake lines yet? Do you like the tool?
Second, have you used that flaring tool to do brake lines yet? Do you like the tool?
Paul
FE390PC
1970 F250 4x4
2016 F150 4x4 2.7 ECO
Gone 1997, 1999 & 2003 F150 4x4s
Gone 1988, 1989 & 1991 Broncs
FE390PC
1970 F250 4x4
2016 F150 4x4 2.7 ECO
Gone 1997, 1999 & 2003 F150 4x4s
Gone 1988, 1989 & 1991 Broncs
- redstone65
- New Member
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:50 am
- Location: Birmingham, AL
Re: Rusty, the 1970 F-100
Thanks!hfdco4 wrote:First, great work. Looking real good.
Second, have you used that flaring tool to do brake lines yet? Do you like the tool?
I haven't done brake lines yet, but I'll use the same NiCopp material for those as well. So, I don't foresee any issues. I'll update the thread when I get to that step. I'm actually going to do a single to double MC swap on my '65 either this week or next so that'll be a great test.
- redstone65
- New Member
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:50 am
- Location: Birmingham, AL
Re: Rusty, the 1970 F-100
Just a quick update to say that the truck is very much driveable now. That's not to say I'm going to run around town in it. But, I did drive it down to the gas station and fill it up with gas the other day. That's about all I feel comfortable with until I inspect the braking system thoroughly. It idles rough too. So, I'll have to do a big tune-up on it. None of that has been done yet. I've been too busy to post updates, so look for those soon.
Got the headlights, tail lights and dash lights working, so that's good. Running lights and turn signals still dead.
Got the headlights, tail lights and dash lights working, so that's good. Running lights and turn signals still dead.
- hfdco4
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1312
- Joined: Mon Apr 01, 2013 1:45 pm
Re: Rusty, the 1970 F-100
Great work!
Paul
FE390PC
1970 F250 4x4
2016 F150 4x4 2.7 ECO
Gone 1997, 1999 & 2003 F150 4x4s
Gone 1988, 1989 & 1991 Broncs
FE390PC
1970 F250 4x4
2016 F150 4x4 2.7 ECO
Gone 1997, 1999 & 2003 F150 4x4s
Gone 1988, 1989 & 1991 Broncs
- redstone65
- New Member
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:50 am
- Location: Birmingham, AL
Re: Rusty, the 1970 F-100
I did the dual master conversion this past week and ran all new lines on the whole truck. The flare tool worked flawlessly. I will say though, that flaring in-place isn't fun. The tool worked well, but it just has tradeoffs. Doing it on the bench is so much easier. But then you have to get in and out from under the truck a million times for test fitting. Also, some of those bends I'm not even sure you can work them in if they are pre-bent.redstone65 wrote:Thanks!hfdco4 wrote:First, great work. Looking real good.
Second, have you used that flaring tool to do brake lines yet? Do you like the tool?
I haven't done brake lines yet, but I'll use the same NiCopp material for those as well. So, I don't foresee any issues. I'll update the thread when I get to that step. I'm actually going to do a single to double MC swap on my '65 either this week or next so that'll be a great test.
Overall, I give this flare tool a thumbs up for the price.
Last edited by redstone65 on Fri Jul 05, 2019 9:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- DuckRyder
- Moderator
- Posts: 4925
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2004 3:04 pm
- Location: Scruffy City
- Contact:
Re: Rusty, the 1970 F-100
Nice...
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
- redstone65
- New Member
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:50 am
- Location: Birmingham, AL
Re: Rusty, the 1970 F-100
Thanks to 1972hiboy helping me with the carb ports, the '74 360 that we dropped in is now running a ton better. Still need to find TDC and set the timing, along with some other tune-up items, but the engine runs quite good now. It's amazing what proper vacuum connections will do.
What's next is cleaning out the cowl and getting the leaks under control. I've ordered some 1/8" thick neoprene rubber sheets to cut some new wiper pivot gaskets. I don't like the leather ones. Seems like their lifespan is limited. Hopefully that'll get a majority of it handled. I'm sure there are other leak points though.
Also, got the headlight switch changed out. The old one had a dirt dauber nest in it (of course).
What's next is cleaning out the cowl and getting the leaks under control. I've ordered some 1/8" thick neoprene rubber sheets to cut some new wiper pivot gaskets. I don't like the leather ones. Seems like their lifespan is limited. Hopefully that'll get a majority of it handled. I'm sure there are other leak points though.
Also, got the headlight switch changed out. The old one had a dirt dauber nest in it (of course).