small battery

[xxxtina63]

I think you may have a bad connection with the cables or, more likely, the vehicle you're using to try to jump it with just doesn't have enough juice to spare. My 390 takes a ton of juice to start. I've tried using "compact" cars to jump it with and have rarely had any results. Most of the time, the car's RPM's drop super low due to lack of juice. Sometimes it will even kill the engine.

[A_G]

im jumping it off a 1996 f150 with a 302

[kid]

No it still won't usually the load of the vehicle you are trying to start from and the jumper cable connector's resistance does not let the juice through. Stick any twelve Volt battery Series 24 or better in there then give it a charge and it will tell you what you need to know.

If charged up and the solenoid does not kick bad wiring or solenoid. If Solenoid kicks but starter doesn't turn bad starter or bad ground from block to battery.

[A_G]

starters good. It sounds just like my truck when i run the battery down. It doesnt have enough juice to turn it over/. or it will click

[xxxtina63]

The F150 should have enough umph. Also, I'm spoiled as far as jumper cables are concerned. The set I use are "custom". They have heavy duty jaws on both ends, but the cables are actually made of welding cable, like used on old stick welders. Each cable is about 3/4 inch in diameter and will flow a lot more current than regular cables.

[A_G]

but also has more resistance

[ExplorerNC]

Cheap jumper cables are a bad idea. They don't work very well at all. I invested in a portable jump box myself, and I love it.

[kid]

My cables cost me 38 and they are well built. #2 wire.

[A_G]

what im trying to say is. I dont have enough money for a right battery. I can get an explorer battery or a bug battery. It doenst have a battery cureently in it. I just hooked the jumpers up to the batter cables themselves.

[ToughOldFord]

A wrecking yard will sell you a battery for under $20. It's a cr*p shoot on how long it will last, but it'll give you something to work with for now.

[fordman]

some trivia here but did anyone know that the 24 is a regular battery and 24 f stands for ford. because ford has the posts on the opposite sides of the battery. making positive and negative in different sides than a regular battery would be.

[ICEMAN6166]

some trivia here but did anyone know that the 24 is a regular battery and 24 f stands for ford. because ford has the posts on the opposite sides of the battery. making positive and negative in different sides than a regular battery would be.

thats why you see extra long battery cables on some trucks because the correct ones wont reach on the other battery.a case of the 2 wrongs attempting to be right.

[DuckRyder]

some trivia here but did anyone know that the 24 is a regular battery and 24 f stands for ford. because ford has the posts on the opposite sides of the battery. making positive and negative in different sides than a regular battery would be.

Actually yes I did, but for some strange reason the F is often omitted from BCI Group 24 batteries, even when they have reversed terminals. I don't know why that is.

I went and looked at mine, it is a Reproduction Group 24F 55AH. But there is enough room in the tray for just about anything you want to put in.

[fordman]

yeah in our trucks it really doesn't matter as much. but in some fords it does matter. unless you have longer cables and or the hood doesn't interfear with the positive post.

[kid]

Our trays were made for a snug 27F fit. All big block Fords until the 70s had 27F as the battery of choice where SMB and I6 had 24 or 26Fs