the c6 tranny we rebuilt and put behind the 429 has been slipping as some of you know.
i decided to swap the type F fluid for some Dex3 to see if that helps. but maybe i found a bigger problem
i pulled the converter drain plug (through the access hole on the tranny) and the plug was wet with oil, but nothing came out
this tranny slips alot when given gas and slips into gear. the converter is out of the old 360, is that the problem maybe?
i just dont understand why oil isnt pouring out...
Sounds to me like your trans is low on fluid. How many quarts did you put in? Converter should drain when the plug is removed.
If it's slipping fluid type won't make a difference.
i just went out and checked on it to see if it started draining, it definitely did. theres oil all over the ground.
i wonder why it took a while to start draining.
hmm well i guess this thread can die
I would figure out the problem before wasting money on more fluid. Yes, Dex3 is the proper fluid, but a slipping tranny is a slipping tranny. In the short term, the fluid they run on won't have much effect. I've seen autos run on tractor hydraulic and motor oil added to a low tranny to get it home.
If the transmission is slipping there's a reason. An unmodified C6 has pretty firm shifts especially at WOT. One that's been modified to shift harder could snap a neck. I doubt the converter is your problem because one of your symptoms is weak shifts (flare up between gears???) and a sloppy converter will have no effect on actual shift quality.
An auto in it's most basic form is a hydraulic system. When one slips more than likely your dealing with clutches not holding. The clutches aren't the culprit though, the hydraulic actuation of the clutches is. If there's adequate pressure going to the pistons that lock the clutches the clutches cannot slip, believe me, enough power to actually slip the clutches under full line pressure breaks something or peels the friction material right off the clutch plates. In addition, the normal line pressure in an auto is more than adequate to hold the clutches from slipping. It takes a pretty good drop in pressure to actually get one to slip. Once they've been slipping for even a short period the clutches are typically fried.
You have a problem, you need to figure it out.
You can usually diagnose where the problem is at in the tranny by it's symptoms. Does it slip in every gear, reverse included? Is shift quality the same for 1-2 and 2-3 shifts? Are downshifts firmer than upshifts? Does it prefer to hang in one gear more than others? Who rebuilt the transmission? What was wrong with it before it was overhauled?
the converter may have had some air trapped and it iddnt want to drain right away until the air let it go. or it could have had somedirt blocking the hole and it broke loose and let the fluid go. putting in a wierd valve body was a thing that worries me. i would take it back out and put my orignal one back in. then refill it all the way run it through all of the gears before saying yes it is full. check it after that to make sure its full. jake11 once said never mix type f and dex3 together. so also make sure and run it through all the gears before you refill it with dex 3. one more thing i am not up on how they manufacture the clutch plates in the trans now days. but i would contact the manufacturuer and ask them whihc trans fluid is suppose to be used with those clutches / rebuild kits.
we "rebuilt" the tranny. more of a re-seal though.
the reason we did a re-seal is because it slipped before we pulled it from the parts truck. i dont remember what it was exactly doing though.
right now, from gears 2-3 it slips and then slams into gear.
from gears 1-2, it seems OK. no big slip or slam
not too sure about the other questions right now.
right now the plan is to get a junkyard c6 and swap it in. and pull the current c6 to dig in and see whats wrong.
what do you mean reseal? i thought you guys replaced everything with a kit. if its was just a quickly pan gasket and vavle body then use type f. if you replaced the seals inside and not the clutch pack plates. then the plates are worn out and need replaced and or the seals below the clutch packs didnt get replaced and they are hard and causing the hard shift once it does shift.
Me and others have been trying to offer our help for your transmission troubles with you repetedly stating the transmission is "rebuilt". I've even specifically asked you what was done in the rebuild and got a vague response from you that made it sound thorough.
If you would have said from the get go that you have a slipping old C6 with a couple new seals and a TCI valvebody in it nobody would have wasted a second trying to help you troubleshoot the thing. I never would have suggested you run dex3. They would say go back and do it right, replace the drum seals, sealing rings, clutches, any worn steels and band. Ditch the TCI VB and install a $15 shift kit.
sorry, ill try to be more detailed.
what we did to the tranny was we completely disassembled the whole thing. then we put it back together with all new seals on everything. Thats what i mean when i say we really just "re-sealed" it. we didnt thoroughly examine the clutch packs for imperfections because we really didnt know what to look for. then we put the TCI VB in and new gaskets of course.
right now the tranny is filled with DEX3.
were going to drive the truck and i am going to take notes on exactly what it does so i can thoroughly answer all your previous questions.
there is a drum for forward and a drum for reverse cluthes or clutch packs. each clutch pack has friction and steel rings called clutches. the friction ring look like aclutch from a manual transmission. they have a fiberous coating on a inner metal ring. a good clutch ring would have the fiber on it and soem slash mark through them but not very deep intot he fiberous coating. when the slashes are worn down the fiberous coating will be flat looking and is really in need of replacement. you would replace all of the clutches in the clutch pack if any of them are worn too badly. under the clutch pack is also a rubber sealing ring tha is part of a piston that sits under the clutch pack. if that ring is hard it will shift hard also. this sounds kind of what may be the problem is the clutch packs need replacing. as well as that last rubber sealing ring on the piston under neath. i hope that helps figure it out for you.
If your trans has older Ford designed clutch material in it and you are running Dex trans fluid it will slip like a bugger. Type F fluid has almost no friction modifiers but most of the Dex fluids are full of them, The Dex fluids are designed to allow slippage. Hawkrod
I think the best solution here would be to bite the bullet and do a "complete" rebuild. I don't like manual valve bodies myself so I'd just use a shift kit but to each his own. Get a torque converter and a transmission cooler while you're at it just to be safe.
Do it right the first time or be prepared to do it again. I've been down that road before and learned the hard way.
like i said,i am on the search for a c6 to swap in for the mean-time, so we can thoroughly check out the tranny that's in there now and replace more parts and do more of a rebuild. or we could keep the tranny in the truck, and rebuild the tranny that i find? what do you guys think. the current tranny allready has all new seals and the valve body (i know you guys are calling TCI crap, we'll see what we do with it). so maybe rebuild that one.
ive made some calls allready for some c6 trannys on craigslist but none yet are for a 460.
and its not a full manual valve body. TCI calls it a Manual/Automatic, dad calls it a auto. just to make that clear.
How can you possibly replace the piston seals and not inspect the clutches and steels? You have to completely disassemble the clutch packs in order to replace these seals.
From the sounds of it I don't think you replaced any of the most important seals. You simply replaced ones that were obvious and easy to get to.
